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Kamuii Basic Member
Joined: 09 Jan 2004 Location: on a ddr pad |
1500. Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2004 1:00 am Post subject: |
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Also how much would it cost to do it the screw way with lights? (not including bar) _________________
DDR says, "Get the %@$! up and dance." |
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Mystik` Basic Member
Joined: 05 Jan 2004 Location: Oklahoma |
1501. Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2004 1:31 am Post subject: |
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anyone have the measurements for the bar extension? _________________
- MySTiK` |
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TFT122 Basic Member
Joined: 14 Nov 2003
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1502. Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2004 6:13 pm Post subject: |
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basically is what I'm trying to do is make the CF2.0, i want the capabilities of piu and ddr all in one. any suggestions or premade plans?? _________________
TFT122: the digital revolutions last and only chance... |
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ChoBo Basic Member
Joined: 26 Dec 2003
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1503. Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2004 4:42 pm Post subject: |
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I recently got some push-buttons from radio shack, to use for XO start select. The thing is, they have 2 spors for wires, positiive and negitive. MY question is, is the wire that goes from the button to the cicut positive or negitive, and what goes on the other end of this button? |
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redhotfanboy Basic Member
Joined: 12 Aug 2003
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1504. Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2004 1:14 am Post subject: |
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OK thats the controler i am using. Where do i solder my wires to and where is the ground point? for reference its a playstation controller(PS1, non analog)
Also i am just asking this becuase it would make things alot easier for me, but since im using CAT5 cord could i wire the pad and use a RJ45 connector near the pad to make sure the wire dosnt get messed up when the pad has to be put away and wire the other end coming from the controller to a maleRJ45 connector?
And keep the cable length under 10feet right? _________________
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wesdives Trick Member
Joined: 15 Feb 2003 Location: Utica, New York |
1505. Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2004 3:56 am Post subject: |
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I can't really see to well but it looks as though you're using an official sony controller, which is probably a mistake. 1. they're expensive and 2. they have that black coating over the buttons. On an unofficial pad those are exposed copper (or some other metal) that you can solder right to.
As far as finding where to solder to in this case, I would start a game with the bare circuit board plugged in, use a bent peice of solder to make whatever necessary connections on the controller to navigate the menus and play the first song you come to. Next, hold the end of the solder on on gold point ( I would use the one just a little to the left of the right button, as that one I'm pretty sure comes from the right arrow), and start touching random places on the controller that might be a ground. On all the one's I've used (and I've used a lot of different brands), the ground is located along the top of the controller, a silvery looking clump of solder (there's usually a long row of them). If you can find the ground, just repeat the process with one end of the solder on the ground to find the rest of the places to solder to.
Back to my previous question: what kind of sheet metal are you using to make the arrows? Copper is the only thing I know of that can be soldered to and the homebuilt page pics do not look like copper. _________________
Matrix + DDR:
"Do you believe that my being faster, or having more stamina, has anything to do with my rhythm, in this place. You think that's Stepmania you're playing now? hmph" |
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SteelFox15 Basic Member
Joined: 02 Dec 2003 Location: NJ |
1506. Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2004 6:29 am Post subject: |
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Kamuii wrote: | Hrm. Trying to think which way to do the arrow contacts.. Either the 2 square metal plate contacts where you push down and they complete the circuit or... One metal plate and it would touch the screws that are attached to wires.. If you have done 'em both ways or have also thought about it tell me what yah think. |
What i did was do the screw contact design. i found this easier because all you need to do is screw down the screws while making sure that the exposed wire touches the metal. you could use the two pieces of sheet metal, however i found this to be annoying because you have to solder to the sheet metal. you can do it however you want though. also, if you plan to add lights, you arent going to want to use a whole piece of sheetmetal in either design. if you were to add lights, using the screw contact method, you could design the panel bottom like this: http://people.ucsc.edu/~depkelly/DDRPad/arrow_panel.jpg
ChoBo wrote: | I recently got some push-buttons from radio shack, to use for XO start select. The thing is, they have 2 spors for wires, positiive and negitive. MY question is, is the wire that goes from the button to the cicut positive or negitive, and what goes on the other end of this button? |
the wire that comes from the button on the controller will go to one of the places for the wire. on the other place, you would connect the ground wire. however, im not sure which one goes on the positive end and which goes on the negative.
redhotfanboy wrote: | OK thats the controler i am using. Where do i solder my wires to and where is the ground point? for reference its a playstation controller(PS1, non analog)
Also i am just asking this becuase it would make things alot easier for me, but since im using CAT5 cord could i wire the pad and use a RJ45 connector near the pad to make sure the wire dosnt get messed up when the pad has to be put away and wire the other end coming from the controller to a maleRJ45 connector? |
if you wanted to make soldering easier on yourself, instead of using the already exposed copper points, you should scrape off the black stuff (graphite i think) using a sharp knife or something. this will expose slightly larger copper points. you could solder to those. despite what wedives says, using a sony controller is a good thing. it helps prevent static and is higher quality. anyway, you should scrape off the copper points and solder using this diagram:
(sorry if its blurry) the blue circles are the arrow contacts. the red circles are possible ground points. note: you only need to use ONE ground point, they are all shown to explain what they do. if you scrape off the black stuff, and solder correctly, you should be fine. also, i would assume that using an RJ45 jack would work. ive never tried it. however, what i have done is use a D-SUB 9 pin connector (like the ones found on computers for ports for monitors and printers and such). this works very well. the process is briefly described here: www.rufus3.com/ddr/pad/box at the bottom of the page.
ive answered all the questions i have answers to, hope ive helped some! _________________
Live GamerTag: Steel Fox 15
Last edited by SteelFox15 on Fri Jan 16, 2004 12:53 pm, edited 1 time in total |
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redhotfanboy Basic Member
Joined: 12 Aug 2003
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1507. Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2004 12:10 pm Post subject: |
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the reason i am using a sony controler is that i have about 4 controlers laying around and this was the only non analog one so the controler box will look more sexy
thanks for the explanation about the soldering points, but since the cat5 allready comes in twisted pairs doing each wire to a spot should be very easy. Sorry about the small pic, i just assumed posting a 3.2mp pic wouldnt be too good _________________
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Bioclown Trick Member
Joined: 13 Jan 2004 Location: So Deep |
1508. Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2004 2:53 pm Post subject: |
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I have a few questions:
1) Can multiple pad wire solder points (more wire on each panel) increase sensitivity?
2) When you drill the solder holes, do you go all the way through or just part of the way?
3) I have a PS1/PS2-toUSB converter for my PC (Athlon XP 2.4 GhZ, 789 MB RAM, Radeon 9600 XT). Can I use that in place of a console?
4) How would I go about installing LEDs?
Answers to these inquiries would be greatly appreciated. I'm working on a limited budget here, seeing as how I spent all of it on my PC so I cannot waste a cent. |
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... Trick Member
Joined: 14 Sep 2003 Location: Riverside |
1509. Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2004 3:51 pm Post subject: |
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ok i have a feq questions, i have a RED OCTANE medal pad, and i knew before hand that it didnt have a trick bar but i got it anyways, now i just recently looked what it looked like under the medal where the trick bar would be, can you buy trick bars that go into the RO medal pads, and if so where? _________________
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... Trick Member
Joined: 14 Sep 2003 Location: Riverside |
1510. Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2004 3:59 pm Post subject: |
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bioclown wrote: |
3) I have a PS1/PS2-toUSB converter for my PC (Athlon XP 2.4 GhZ, 789 MB RAM, Radeon 9600 XT). Can I use that in place of a console?
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quick questions, do you play online games like cs 1.6 or DOD or even battle field 1942, if so you do have a good CPU, kind of slow but good brand, and if you play games you dont want your computer to lag so try if you have the cash, upgrading your RAM to a Corsair TWINX Dual Channel 1024MB PC4400 DDR 550MHz Memory....your computer should never "lag" and you should be one of the top players just from your computer speed.... _________________
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SteelFox15 Basic Member
Joined: 02 Dec 2003 Location: NJ |
1511. Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2004 4:29 pm Post subject: |
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bioclown wrote: | I have a few questions:
1) Can multiple pad wire solder points (more wire on each panel) increase sensitivity?
2) When you drill the solder holes, do you go all the way through or just part of the way?
3) I have a PS1/PS2-toUSB converter for my PC (Athlon XP 2.4 GhZ, 789 MB RAM, Radeon 9600 XT). Can I use that in place of a console?
4) How would I go about installing LEDs?
Answers to these inquiries would be greatly appreciated. I'm working on a limited budget here, seeing as how I spent all of it on my PC so I cannot waste a cent. |
1. i think i know what you mean there and the answer is no. i dont think this would make the pad more sensitive, however it may make it more reliable (if one wire falls off, breaks, etc.) to make an arrow more sensitive, you make it easier for the switches to contact (sheet metal to sheet metal or sheet metal to screws)
2. im not quite sure what you mean when you say solder holes. if you mean drilling through the controller when soldering to it, you would drill all the way through. this would allow the wire to go in through the back and have less of a chance of touching another exposed wire and makes it easier to store
3. i think that would work. that's actually what im trying to do (as soon as the adapter ships ) given the speed of your computer, im sure it would work fine
4. actually, im trying to figure that one out myself. as far as i know, there is no written explanation on how to do this. what im thinking about doing is getting an AC/DC adaptor and running a parallel circuit through the LEDs in each panel and using a separate set of switches and plugging it into a wall outlet. if you are going to wire LEDs, you need to create a separate set of switches so you don't overload the controller (unless you use diodes or whatever which i have no understanding of) _________________
Live GamerTag: Steel Fox 15
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tolookah Trick Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2003 Location: The People's Republic of Wesdives. |
1512. Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2004 5:29 pm Post subject: |
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bioclown wrote: | I have a few questions:
3) I have a PS1/PS2-toUSB converter for my PC (Athlon XP 2.4 GhZ, 789 MB RAM, Radeon 9600 XT). Can I use that in place of a console?
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if you are wondering if a DDR clone will work on one of those, then yes, a 2.4GHz will rin that kind of stuff fine, and your video card is nice to boot. if you are wondering how i know it'll run fine, my desktop is a 900 athlon with 128 megs of ram, and DDR clones work flawlessly... (i use a parallel adapter though, but well, that shouldn't use up over 50% of your processor time...) |
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dacandyman Basic Member
Joined: 07 Jan 2004
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1513. Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2004 10:31 pm Post subject: |
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I just finished building my second pad.
Instead of wiring the controller to the pad, I put and 6-pin plug on the end of the phone cable and then put a 6-pin phone jack on the pad. This is so I can disconnect the controller and use it as normal on other games. Plus its really cool. Just dont cut the plugs off when you but the cable. If you did then buy plugs and a crimper. You could return the crimper for a refund after you are done though. On many cheep crimppers its has a cutting tool but they do not give a clean enough cut so when you but the plug on a crimp there is a short and may cause multiple arrows to go off at once. So use the stripper on the crimper but use a clean cutting tool also.
If you are willing to have metal pad that is not quite as shiny as an arcade then use galvanized steel. You can buy 50 feet of it in a roll at Lowes for $33 or you can get just enough for the pad. Its in the roofing area and is used for flashing.
If using tin-snips bugs you then try to get one of those paper cutters with the big knife that you push down on. It saved me a lot of time and was really accurate with less metal cuts.
To cut sheet metal costs even more you can get ghetto and make the censers out of some thing other than steel. I used a metal table that from an arcade that closed down but I think you could use a tall beer can if you cut both ends off and rolled it out.
Use contact cement to put the censers together. Its strong and bonds on contact.
On my second pad the censers are made of steel on both sides but the actual contact is made by 1 1/8-inch bolts and the resistance is from rubber knobs I cut out of a tire I found on the side of the road. This and much thicker Plexiglas will make a much more arcade feel. To make room for the bolts I used 2x4s for more height.
Has any one tried soldering in to a keyboard? My thought is that two pads could be wired into one and it would save loot with the lack of a USB port controller.
...trying playing Soul Calibur 2 on your pad |
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scandalous bob Trick Member
Joined: 02 Nov 2003 Location: Naperville |
1514. Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2004 3:25 pm Post subject: |
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hey everyone, i finished my first pad, building it was a pain in the butt. it works relatively well, still some minor bugs to work out. the mending bracket contact system is a pretty decent way to go if you are thinking of ways to wire your pad.
Patster, are you out there? If so, check your PMs or PM me. thanks. |
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SpaceMan Trick Member
Joined: 03 Dec 2002
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1515. Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2004 3:53 pm Post subject: |
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Alright, so I finished my pad a while ago, and it worked pretty responsively.
But now I'm having second thoughts about the contruction of the pad.
I was thinking about rebuilding the thing, resembling the Cobalt Flux pad. I was just wondering if it would be a good idea to have just all 4 panels [including the non-arrows] being just the heavy-duty Acryllic. (The one I used previously was around 1/4'' thick.
To all pad builders. Yay or nay? |
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Little Firefly Trick Member
Joined: 08 Jun 2003 Location: Heading away from the white light... |
1516. Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2004 11:43 pm Post subject: |
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My mom just bought 50 ft. of speaker wire from the dollar tree, and I was wondering if i could use this in my pad. it has 2 channels, so i could have four separate wires cut, then soder the grounds together, how does that sound?
I don't know a lot about electronics and I was just wondering if this could possibly work. I am using the screwcontact system btw. _________________
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hooded__paladin Trick Member
Joined: 10 Nov 2003
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1517. Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 6:29 am Post subject: |
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a wire is a wire is a wire. If it conducts electricity, you can use it. |
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h2o9753 Basic Member
Joined: 19 Jan 2004
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1518. Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 10:36 am Post subject: |
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Does anyone know if lexan can be pop riveted? I'm thinking of getting some 0.25" lexan and I would like to put my arrow graphics between 2 0.25" pieces. |
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goodluckpineapple Trick Member
Joined: 22 Nov 2003 Location: Minnesota |
1519. Posted: Tue Jan 20, 2004 1:57 pm Post subject: |
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i am going to build pad this summer and i am still a little confused on the grounding. can anyone explain or show pictures of what your ground looks like? and i was also wondering if adding lighting is more trouble than its worth? thanks |
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