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MarKoPoLo
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Joined: 18 Oct 2003
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1340.  Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2003 8:30 pm Post subject: |
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ok lets see here. first off it seems that one of you has me beat for being the cheapest. ah well i still come second.
now to answer the lengthy and many questions.....
!. alright as far as the whole frying thing goes...many parts can be "fried" by over/accesive heat. yes you can burn/fry tracks. i know it seems odd but it does and can happen. litterally you lift the copper off the board and it breaks causing it to be cut or "open". (sleep)
@. if a part is fried...its fried. the only thing you can do is replace it. IC chips are very bad for that they fry easily. so do SCR's and a few other components that i cant list off the top of my head right now. (need)
#. what i have heard and have been told... you shouldnt have to worry about static. in fact most people say it is due to adding lights to the dance pad that cause electric failure and well destruction/frying of controllers and possibly consoles. (sleep)
$. now that i have thought about it i think there is a possibility with the static. this could be due to the fact that many home made ones apply the metal on to the acrylic. plastic not being conductive and being well known for collecting static, causes the theoretical/possible static surge. the answer for this would be to instead of applying the metal to acrylic(plastic) to apply it to a less static building material. i would think wood would be the answer. though there maybe others and this is just a guess/theory so dont expect this to be the solution. (must)
%. it is doubtfull by the way that the wiring would be the problem. but to be on the safe side i would try to use as little as possible. just to be safe. (sleep)
^. now i dont quite understand your 5th question but i think the answer would be a no. there actually isnt any components or internals persay in the pad itself. unless you plan on adding lights then there would be a few (i personally dont plan on adding lights due to it being to much of a hassle). simply put all your really making when you make a pad is four or more larger buttons then the ones on the controller to which you solder them to. (cant)
&. now as for your last question... i have no idea. doubtfull though that you could mod or re-cuircit any of the controller without causing more problems for yourself. they're to, for lack of a better word, delicate. your just going to have to be careful. many parts are heat sensative nothing you can do about it, you'll just need to be carefull. oh and another problem may be due to cold soldering (very common mistake even made by computers/machines). so if you fry...your screwed. (sleep)
mind you all i wouldnt call myself that great in the knowledge of electronics but i do know some. hey 6 years of it is quite some time. and trust me i do know some theory (by some i mean quite a bit but not as much as someone taking it post-secondary). got to love practical arts in high-school. or whatever you call those classes. hope this is of some help. i dont know if i answered anything or everything. either or this was....fun?....(ah finally i can sleep)
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MarKoPoLo
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Joined: 18 Oct 2003
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Shadow_Dragonz
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Joined: 16 Mar 2003
Location: California |
| 1342. Posted: Mon Dec 15, 2003 9:59 pm Post subject: |
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| motster wrote: | Hrrmm..
Well, the super cutter at Lowes definitely didn't leave me with 11 by 11 squares. I've definitely got a few that are 1/8 shy, and some that are 1/4 over. Hopefully I can salvage the set, hiding some pieces under the others, etc.
On the topic of frying controllers...Is it just me or is this something that should have been solved by now? Have these basic questions been answered? :
1) When a controller is "fried", does it mean that the IC on the controller is dead? (is there an IC?) Surely it doesn't mean that the given traces have become faulty? If so, what the heck can kill a copper trace?
2) What causes the <component> to fail? Is it truly static buildup? Or is it a problem with the electrical signal from being dragged out along wires (cat5/other) with different resistance properties (caused by length/makeup)?
3) If it's static, which pad components cause it? Can those components be coated with something or separated from each other? People have reported that even grounding to a wall outlet isn't enough. Should a single large ground wire be run internally, versus separate ones? (a "ground rail").. IS IT THE WEATHERSTRIPPING? Of all the components, this seems most likely to me to be the cultprit (most like carpet/other static producing materials..). Has anyone that ever used LATEX TUBING, or other material, actually fried a controller?
4) If it's not static, is it the length of the wiring inside the pad? Perhaps the controller should be located more centrally versus at the exterior of the pad?
5) I haven't looked at a pad internals yet, but is there something special about the pad internals that couldn't be left out or recreated on breadboard for better performance? If the pads cost only $5 (and that's after 4 middlemen and a boat ride usually) surely someone on the board can create an equivalent design (and perhaps sell them for little to no profit)..
6) If the topway control boards work without issue (getting "fried") then what is inherent in their design that makes them so? They obviously are designed to work with extremely long traces that run into the arrows, then zig zag in those huge contact patterns (in the cheapie pads), so perhaps some resistance circuitry or something can be retrofitted into other controller designs? Same question basically applies to the Sony controller...
I know just enough about circuitry and electrical design to be dangerous, so please forgive me if the questions asked are stupid. I just feel like this is one of (if not THE) last lingering question that keeps many folks from making their own pads.
This board has given me like 40 hours of reading pleasure, and may actually enable me to build my own pad, so if nothing else I hope this post can stir up an answer to this (annoying to some, frightening to others) question. |
I'm just going to answre 3. MarKoPolo did a good job at answering the questions  .
3) It could be the weatherstripping, though there is little movement other than up and down that it shouldn't be a problem.
Test, rub your hand across a blown up balloon. What happens? Static. Now, go to the arcade and rub your shoes on the acrylic panels and/or with wet shoes. What happens? Static. Hmm...I see a connection  .
If you play with your socks, you wont' really build up much static from what I know, though you'll be sliding around the dance pad enough to make yourself feel like a cat on a fense  . I'm not ruling out that the weatherstripping isn't causing any static; however, shoes DO cause static, when rubbed against the acrylic.
Blue Beefman has used blue (silicon  ) tubing, like the ones that doctors use to hold scapals in. He has not reported any problems with static build up...and I do not know where to purchase the tubing  .
Here's something, shouldn't you ask the people that don't have the problem what they do different? For instance, did they use the same materials, did they use the same brand of controller, do they play on carpet/tile/etc, and questions like that. That seems more reasonable to finding the answer since no one has yet figured out what really is the cause and how to solve it.
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Everyone seems, or some, seem to be talking about how little they've spent on their dance pad. Well, I'll brag (not really) at how much I've spent on it. I think I've spent well over $200-$300 on my dance pad! Oh...and I found out that I have the wrong weatherstripping...yet another trip to the store, HORRA!!! 
Count Four: Can you use 16 guage wire for the controller circiut? In other words, will that type of wire be okay to use to solder to, and use through out the dance pad? Will that wire do any harm or cause any problems? Is it safe?
If anyone can, please post that they don't know the answer to that question. I've now asked it four times, and haven't gotten a single response. It's like the question is being ignored  .
Thanks
Shadow_Dragons
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tolookah
Trick Member
Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Location: The People's Republic of Wesdives. |
| 1343. Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 6:29 am Post subject: |
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| Shadow_Dragonz wrote: |
Count Four: Can you use 16 guage wire for the controller circiut? In other words, will that type of wire be okay to use to solder to, and use through out the dance pad? Will that wire do any harm or cause any problems? Is it safe?
If anyone can, please post that they don't know the answer to that question. I've now asked it four times, and haven't gotten a single response. It's like the question is being ignored .
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sorry for not answering other times, but well, finding the reference is annoying.
based on the design of the original PS controller, there's a 220k current limiting resistor in the curcuit, if you are soley wiring to the buttons themselves (no funny stuff like lighting) you could get away with wire as small as 40 gauge. having a larger wire shouldn't matter except for the soldering job, and in all honesty, even then, you aren't really hindering yourself.
Reference used for post: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm |
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motster
Basic Member
Joined: 14 Dec 2003
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| 1344. Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 7:14 am Post subject: lol OK.. Here goes longest post of the week ;-) |
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Ack, double post! See below ;-)
Last edited by motster on Tue Dec 16, 2003 7:34 am, edited 1 time in total |
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motster
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Joined: 14 Dec 2003
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| 1345. Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 7:17 am Post subject: lol OK.. Here goes longest post of the week ;-) |
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| MarKoPoLo wrote: | ok lets see here. first off it seems that one of you has me beat for being the cheapest. ah well i still come second.
now to answer the lengthy and many questions.....
!. alright as far as the whole frying thing goes...many parts can be "fried" by over/accesive heat. yes you can burn/fry tracks. i know it seems odd but it does and can happen. litterally you lift the copper off the board and it breaks causing it to be cut or "open". (sleep) |
OK, I totally agree that tracks can be lifted, and I'll buy that heat can cause the copper to separate from the board. Where does the heat come from in the homepad designs then I wonder (if so)?
| MarKoPoLo wrote: | | @. if a part is fried...its fried. the only thing you can do is replace it. IC chips are very bad for that they fry easily. so do SCR's and a few other components that i cant list off the top of my head right now. (need) |
Yup, I agree. Was more asking if anyone had done a good failure analysis down to component level (i.e. trace versus some chip, etc). This could be the key to the whole question.
| MarKoPoLo wrote: | | #. what i have heard and have been told... you shouldnt have to worry about static. in fact most people say it is due to adding lights to the dance pad that cause electric failure and well destruction/frying of controllers and possibly consoles. (sleep) |
You got me, I just heard static mentioned a few times ;-) ANyone done a ratio of failures on lighted vs. non-lighted pads?
| MarKoPoLo wrote: | | $. now that i have thought about it i think there is a possibility with the static. this could be due to the fact that many home made ones apply the metal on to the acrylic. plastic not being conductive and being well known for collecting static, causes the theoretical/possible static surge. the answer for this would be to instead of applying the metal to acrylic(plastic) to apply it to a less static building material. i would think wood would be the answer. though there maybe others and this is just a guess/theory so dont expect this to be the solution. (must) |
Perhaps we can spray the plastic with anti-static spray, or put some anti-static material inside?
| MarKoPoLo wrote: | | %. it is doubtfull by the way that the wiring would be the problem. but to be on the safe side i would try to use as little as possible. just to be safe. (sleep) |
Always a good idea, learned from years of console (and other appliance) modding :-)
| MarKoPoLo wrote: | ^. now i dont quite understand your 5th question but i think the answer would be a no. there actually isnt any components or internals persay in the pad itself. unless you plan on adding lights then there would be a few (i personally dont plan on adding lights due to it being to much of a hassle). simply put all your really making when you make a pad is four or more larger buttons then the ones on the controller to which you solder them to. (cant)
&. now as for your last question... i have no idea. doubtfull though that you could mod or re-cuircit any of the controller without causing more problems for yourself. they're to, for lack of a better word, delicate. your just going to have to be careful. many parts are heat sensative nothing you can do about it, you'll just need to be carefull. oh and another problem may be due to cold soldering (very common mistake even made by computers/machines). so if you fry...your screwed. (sleep) |
To both questions, I'm just saying that some controllers have like 0% reported failures, so it's highly likely that something in their design is different in a positive fashion. That failure analysis would help ;-)
| MarKoPoLo wrote: | | mind you all i wouldnt call myself that great in the knowledge of electronics but i do know some. hey 6 years of it is quite some time. and trust me i do know some theory (by some i mean quite a bit but not as much as someone taking it post-secondary). got to love practical arts in high-school. or whatever you call those classes. hope this is of some help. i dont know if i answered anything or everything. either or this was....fun?....(ah finally i can sleep) |
I think a lot of us are schooled in the "University of Life" as well ;-) One thing I forgot to mention as a culprit: "bad soldering". This would be those times where too much heat was applied, or where traces were inadvertently crossed (either at solder time, or afterwords by exposed wiring). Looking at this page reminded me of that problem; something I don't normally think of since I've soldered so much: http://www.geekvanity.com/sonycontroller/ (see 5th picture on page).
Thanks! |
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MarKoPoLo
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Joined: 18 Oct 2003
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| 1346. Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 8:25 am Post subject: |
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hey i wasnt trying to brag here or anything. i was just letting you know that i wasnt talking out of my buttocks and that i do have a basses in which to bass my answers on. in other words i was letting you know that i do know what im talking about.
anyways....yeah i say it maybe due to how each company makes there own controllers. these will obviously be slightly different in some manner. especially when company's like sony put patents and copyrights on them. that and i would also agree that it could be due to the paths being crossed durning or after soldering. although it would only cause the cuircit to be consistantly closed. as if the button is always pressed. it shouldnt cause it to surge or something like that. as for the heating.... this could be caused during soldering as to how some people mention it not working after they solder it together. that and that is what usually happens when there is excesive amounts of heat used during soldering. now i doubt that shoes would cause static. i just dont see how rubbing my shoes on plastic would cause static. if you ask me your socks would cause more static as to how they're made of cotton or wool. i personally believe though that it could be due to soldering all of the buttons to the same ground. this could cause the ground of all the buttons to conduct and the electricity could jump from the other panels to their ground. unsure though if that would cause a surge but hey never know. anyways i got to go to class so later. enjoy
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Death comes swiftly to those who run in fear. I stand waiting.
"Yellow headed, purple dress!" Thus spaketh Gord |
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motster
Basic Member
Joined: 14 Dec 2003
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| 1347. Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 12:13 pm Post subject: |
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LOL, I didn't think you were bragging; I'm just glad someone's actually discussing it with me :-)
Let's keep it up! |
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Shadow_Dragonz
Trick Member
Joined: 16 Mar 2003
Location: California |
| 1348. Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 2:37 pm Post subject: |
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| MarKoPoLo wrote: | hey i wasnt trying to brag here or anything. i was just letting you know that i wasnt talking out of my buttocks and that i do have a basses in which to bass my answers on. in other words i was letting you know that i do know what im talking about.
anyways....yeah i say it maybe due to how each company makes there own controllers. these will obviously be slightly different in some manner. especially when company's like sony put patents and copyrights on them. that and i would also agree that it could be due to the paths being crossed durning or after soldering. although it would only cause the cuircit to be consistantly closed. as if the button is always pressed. it shouldnt cause it to surge or something like that. as for the heating.... this could be caused during soldering as to how some people mention it not working after they solder it together. that and that is what usually happens when there is excesive amounts of heat used during soldering. now i doubt that shoes would cause static. i just dont see how rubbing my shoes on plastic would cause static. if you ask me your socks would cause more static as to how they're made of cotton or wool. i personally believe though that it could be due to soldering all of the buttons to the same ground. this could cause the ground of all the buttons to conduct and the electricity could jump from the other panels to their ground. unsure though if that would cause a surge but hey never know. anyways i got to go to class so later. enjoy |
Shoes do create static. Just like your hand creates static when you rub it against a balloon, or on wool. So, yes socks would cause static too, yet there is no friction when you use your socks. Whenever I would play with socks, I'd be sliding more than anything else  . However, when you play with shoes, you sometimes do slide a little or when you slide for stepping on the arrows. By that, you have friction and then you will create static electricity. I don't believe that you can create static with out the friction, and that's what the shoes do.
From what has been said, it seems more likely that it is due to soldering that the controllers burn out. As it should be noted that you shouldn't leave the soldering iron for more than 3 seconds, I believe, when soldering to electronic components. That will destroy any controller . Also, it seems that many people that wish to build their own dance pad go into it with no to little experience, which is okay. I do recommend that everyone practice soldering first. That should eliminate most, if not all, the problems that we see. There are other factors, and there is no fool proof way of preventing such cases, but again that should eliminate most cases.
Possibly, in all future builds of dance pad, it should be noted of that.
| tolookah wrote: | | Shadow_Dragonz wrote: |
Count Four: Can you use 16 guage wire for the controller circiut? In other words, will that type of wire be okay to use to solder to, and use through out the dance pad? Will that wire do any harm or cause any problems? Is it safe?
If anyone can, please post that they don't know the answer to that question. I've now asked it four times, and haven't gotten a single response. It's like the question is being ignored .
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sorry for not answering other times, but well, finding the reference is annoying.
based on the design of the original PS controller, there's a 220k current limiting resistor in the curcuit, if you are soley wiring to the buttons themselves (no funny stuff like lighting) you could get away with wire as small as 40 gauge. having a larger wire shouldn't matter except for the soldering job, and in all honesty, even then, you aren't really hindering yourself.
Reference used for post: http://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm |
Thanks for answering the question .
I am adding lights, but that's on a different circuit/seperate from the controller's wiring. So, I shouldn't have a problem with them crossing.
Thanks again
Shadow_Dragonz
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Zeotti
Basic Member
Joined: 06 Dec 2003
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| 1349. Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 2:49 pm Post subject: |
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Can anybody please help me located the contacts on this circuit board from a MadCatz Soft Pad?
I can't seem to find the ground neither - it doesn't have a big contact like the Topway circuit boards do.
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motster
Basic Member
Joined: 14 Dec 2003
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| 1350. Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 4:07 pm Post subject: |
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For those that are looking for ground on an unknown circuit board (and have a voltmeter or continuity tester):
Check the diagram here: http://www.arcadecontrols.com/Mirrors/www.ziplabel.com/dpadpro/psx.html
You see that the 4th from the left is the ground connector. You can stick a pin in the controller port for the controller you are soldering to, then run touch one probe of the tester to the pin, and probe the circuit board with the other end until you find the ground.
The same could probably be used for finding the other points too, but I don't claim to know enough yet to suggest how ;-) |
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drovkin
Basic Member
Joined: 06 Jan 2003
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| 1351. Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 4:09 pm Post subject: |
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| Hi all. I posted this in another topic, but this might be the more appropiate place to put it. Anyway, here's my question. I've been gone for several months from the boards, and have now decided that I want to try my hand at building a metal pad. I remember back when I used to read these alot (6 months maybe?) that the two names that were big were Riptide and DDRHomepad. Are there any other groundbreaking designs out there? I would want the whole pad (just one) to run under $150 if that's possible. I have access to a lot of tools, so that shouldn't be a problem. Anyway, what are the most reliable homemade pads out there? Should I just stick with the ddrhomepad? ANY help would be great, thanks! |
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Shadow_Dragonz
Trick Member
Joined: 16 Mar 2003
Location: California |
| 1352. Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 4:29 pm Post subject: |
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| drovkin wrote: | | Hi all. I posted this in another topic, but this might be the more appropiate place to put it. Anyway, here's my question. I've been gone for several months from the boards, and have now decided that I want to try my hand at building a metal pad. I remember back when I used to read these alot (6 months maybe?) that the two names that were big were Riptide and DDRHomepad. Are there any other groundbreaking designs out there? I would want the whole pad (just one) to run under $150 if that's possible. I have access to a lot of tools, so that shouldn't be a problem. Anyway, what are the most reliable homemade pads out there? Should I just stick with the ddrhomepad? ANY help would be great, thanks! |
I haven't seen ddrhomepad post...in a long time, and Riptide hasn't posted for about 40-50 posts . I don't really know of any top names that post a lot.
Ground breaking designs? Well, there is mine ;however, I am still designing it and it will not be done until Christmas break is over . What is worse yet that I'll be done building it and designing it and such, but I will not have anything or much written about it. Ah well...the day will come .
There is no one realiable pad out there. There are 3 designs that I know of, and then a Blue Beefman mod (though this mod is somewhere lost in this thread  ). The 3 designs are as follows:
1) ddrhomepad
2) Riptide
3) Patster
All of them are good and have different variations.
1) ddrhomepad: His does not, and I do not forsee it in the future to be able to hold lights. The pad is so thin that adding a trick bar may not be possible either. Out of all of the designs, his seems to cost the least.
Pro
*Cheap
*Easy to build
*Light
*Instructions and a lot for that matter
*Most people have built one, and they can help you out on it
Con
*Not the arcade feel that you'd expect
*Cannot add other mods to the design (other than a back panel)
2) Riptide: This one is the middle ground of the designs. His have the acrylic cut out to be almost exact like the arcades . The cost is in the middle range.
Pro
*Tutorial videos for those that want visual aid and instructions
*Most everyone else that didn't build a ddrhomepad version has built this one
*Lights can be added
*Trick bar can be added
Cons
*LED lights are almost the only lights that you can fit in this design 
*Wiring and setting up the screws for the contacts is more than tedious
*Cutting the wood to fit underneath is another tedious task
3) Patster: This desing is like the arcade. His design comes with instructions to add a trick bar and a written up document on adding lights. Nice look to the finished dance pad.
Pro
*Instructions are very detailed on adding lights
*A trick bar is able to be added, and is made to do so
*Almost total arcade look (closest thing to the arcade )
Con
*This version will cost $$$, and depending where you are could be a lot
*The lights could be a hassel
*The instructions are for visual people--No actual part list or guide to help you
*Very few people have built a dance pad of his design
*Can wiegh a lot
I hope that helps. Actually, none of them are really that hard to build, just they take more time as you go down the list for building time...maybe that should've been added. But it should be noted that they are all reliable.
Shadow_Dragonz
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drovkin
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Joined: 06 Jan 2003
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| 1353. Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 4:41 pm Post subject: |
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^ oh wow, that's going to help a ton, thanks!
What's this Blue mod you were talking about? Like, does it mod a soft pad? Is it a mod to go with one of the other designs?
Another question...how long does it seem the ddrhomepads last? I didn't really need the lights or a trick bar...not yet anyway, so this first attempt will probably be aimed at a ddrhomepad. I'm usually playing 6-8 footers on a soft pad right now, and can usually get a B or an A, so I don't think it will be a total loss to not have this bar right now.
If anything in these pads break, is it usually pretty easy to repair? I'm at home right now, but i'm a college student, and I live about 1.5 hours away from my school, so it wouldn't be easy to pack up the pad and go home every other weekend to try and fix stuff...i would like it if it could easily go several months without having to tear it apart (We usually play about once or twice a week, a few hours each time we play)... |
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Shadow_Dragonz
Trick Member
Joined: 16 Mar 2003
Location: California |
| 1354. Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 4:52 pm Post subject: |
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| drovkin wrote: | ^ oh wow, that's going to help a ton, thanks!
What's this Blue mod you were talking about? Like, does it mod a soft pad? Is it a mod to go with one of the other designs?
Another question...how long does it seem the ddrhomepads last? I didn't really need the lights or a trick bar...not yet anyway, so this first attempt will probably be aimed at a ddrhomepad. I'm usually playing 6-8 footers on a soft pad right now, and can usually get a B or an A, so I don't think it will be a total loss to not have this bar right now.
If anything in these pads break, is it usually pretty easy to repair? I'm at home right now, but i'm a college student, and I live about 1.5 hours away from my school, so it wouldn't be easy to pack up the pad and go home every other weekend to try and fix stuff...i would like it if it could easily go several months without having to tear it apart (We usually play about once or twice a week, a few hours each time we play)... |
This would be a good time to be able to IM...
All of the dance pad are reliable and won't need to be fixed if built correctly. As I stated before, you should practice soldering first before doing so, or get someone that knows how to. This will prevent many problems that a lot of the builders are at the moment. The only real thing that you will need to do is to tweak the dance pad, if anything. This is so you can get the right sensitivity for youself, that fits your style. That can be anything to placement of the weatherstripping to adding extra solder (at the center for ddrhomepad's) and such.
For the Blue Beefman mod, that is one that goes on the Riptide dance pad, and possibly the Patster one. That is where you use corner braces instead (which helps a lot [and you screw them down too ]). Also, he used, I believe, blue silicon tubing (or just blue tubing) for the contact spring. In other words, instead of using weatherstripping, he used the tubbing, which will not wear out, and gives the sensitivity that will always be there. Also, he was working on a new light contact design...the he suddenly disappeard....
Fixing the dance pad should be every now and then (though that could really be an over statement). Simple things like cleaning and things like that are a given for the dance pads. The only time that you would need to repair the dance pad is if the wiring you soldered is fried by soldering to it, replacing lights, the image some how moved off and got torn to bits  , or things like that. I cannot really think of anything that you would really have to do to fix the dance pad up. Just simple maintence. So far, from what I know, ddrhomepad is still using the same dance pad that he made originally!
I hope that answers what you asked
Bigger Edit: The dance pads are easy to repair. Also, since you built the dance pad, you'll be able to figure out the problem more than not. Also, we're here to help you if you get stumped on the problem or over look something. Another thing is that you don't have to wait on some technical support and wait listening to music that you don't care to hear.
Shadow_Dragonz
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drovkin
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Joined: 06 Jan 2003
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| 1355. Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 5:19 pm Post subject: |
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^ I added your IM address to my buddy list, so whenever you get online, if you don't mind, maybe I could talk to you some more. Anyway, just one more question I can think of, and then I'll probably start looking over designs 
Does the blue mod make the pad even more reliable, meaning there is one less thing you'd have to replace down the line? Would it be worth it to move to possibly Riptides so I could use that mod? If not, I'll probably use ddrhomepads. Oh yeah, another reason that ddrhomepad's is looking good is because it's so thin, and since like I said, i'm going to be transporting the pad around, and need to be able to fit it in my car with all my other junk So yeah, other than the blue mod question, I think that about does it, maybe i'll hit you up on IM if I see you on there if I can think of anything else, as long as you don't mind Thanks again for all your help! |
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Zeotti
Basic Member
Joined: 06 Dec 2003
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| 1356. Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 5:29 pm Post subject: |
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I definitely suggest building a Riptide pad. There's instructional videos which are 80 percent more helpful than the vague instructions on DDRHomepad. Cutting the wood isn't hard at all IMO, but there's ALOT of measuring when you make the base. After you have the panels screwed in it's pretty much easy going. Making the supports is another step, and screwing them in is also a little bit of work considering you have to make 32 holes just to get supports in  . Well, after that you have the triangles. I just cut a long strip of wood with two triangles *to fit* on that piece so there's no extra trimming. Play around with the triangles getting them to get in the corners with the braces being able to fit around them - sometimes it's too tight of a fit. Afterwards you have the screws, which require 16 holes in every panel. That's 64 holes, and 64 screws to drill into. Those 64 screws have to be flush with eachother as well as just under 1/4 of an inch, which can take quite a bit of tweaking. Wrapping the wire and soldering them to the screws is very tedious, but it gets easy if you use some plyers and you know how to solder. Be sure to get a little less than an inch stripped so you can wrap it around the screws without it ever getting loose. And the acrylic panels - well, I'll see soon, it's gonna be pretty risky/tedious I'm sure. They're the only things I have left to do - really .
I've spent 8 hours drilling the screws and soldering them/getting the wiring organized. Another 14 for the base of the pad and everything else. That's around 22 hours and I only have about 4 hours left of work. Around 25 hours isn't bad for this pad IMO lol
Although, that doesn't include the metal panels which I made from a previously made DDRHomepad.
I don't suggest DDRHomepad unless you really like cutting sheet metal, cutting pegboard (agh!!!!!!) and cutting MDF Rails (oh god). Riptide's design can take much more pressure/damage since it's made from 2x4s, wiring is great because the contact can be from any of the 8 pairs of screws around the pad. Also, it's quicker to build IMO, less arrow cutting, simpler design, etc,. Wiring is much easier to organize too. One other thing, the panels are much thicker than in DDRHomepad's, and they don't literally have to bend to contact - they feel just like the arcade.
**BTW** Thanks for the help motster |
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drovkin
Basic Member
Joined: 06 Jan 2003
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| 1357. Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 5:41 pm Post subject: |
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| ^ I thought I remembered reading through a few previous pages and saw that RipTides was starting to have static problems of some type...is that a problem that you've heard about/forsee in yours? |
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motster
Basic Member
Joined: 14 Dec 2003
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| 1358. Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 5:46 pm Post subject: |
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Zeotti/all...
I'm thinking I can get away with less sheet metal for my ddrhomepad variation, and less flex in the arrow panels, by using thin weatherstripping and some sheetmetal "strips" or "bits" that are doubled over and stacked 2 or three deep so that the arrows don't travel far at all. (versus covering bottom and top of arrow well completely like in the ddrhomepad reference design).
Sorta like
--------------------- <--arrow surface
- - - <--- arrow wire inserted here
- - - <-- the small dashes are the sheet metal "bits"
- - -
- - - <ground wire inserted here
-----------------------
At this point, I'm definitely most concerned about the flex in the arrow panels; the rest of the pad I feel should hold up fine (pegboard + pine + pegboard, etc, should be pretty strong on a flat floor/carpet).
Since the store cut the lucite, and will cut the plywood/rails, that basically leaves cutting the sheetmetal which shouldn't be sooo bad.
Thoughts folks?
p.s. so you found the ground trace Zeotti? |
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Zeotti
Basic Member
Joined: 06 Dec 2003
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| 1359. Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2003 6:55 pm Post subject: |
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| I found the ground trace - but some arrow buttons apparently are fried. I'll have to look for another controller I guess. |
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