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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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MarKoPoLo
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1300. PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2003 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok i have a simple wiring question here. one panel of metal in the buttons gos to ground the other panel goes to the corresponding button on the controller right?

oh hey i would just like every one to note that i have taken just over a work week and a couple days so far ( 1 hour each day) and im already almost done. just need to assemble some of the peices together. so i figure it shouldnt take that long at all. definetly not 100-150. if done right not even 50 hrs. and thats still with the right messurements.

just a side note: it seems im always starting the next page whenever i post these days. coincidence? i think not! hah!
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Last edited by MarKoPoLo on Wed Dec 10, 2003 6:19 pm, edited 1 time in total
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Momo -YHB-
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1301. PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2003 9:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Urgent Reply with quote

PiccoloNamek wrote:
God damn it. Ok.

TO THOSE OF YOU WHO MADE A PATSTER-BASED DESIGN: What the hell kind of weather stripping did you use? I mean good GOD I've already tried out 3 different brands, and none of them worked well! They were either too strong, or too weak, or too spongy, or not spongy enough, and it never ends! I can't get the outside of the panel to hit the contacts properly because the center of the arrow panel just bends inward, bringing the outside edges up!

So PLEASE, if anyone has a good suggestion tell me. Make you give me the exact brand and type you used!


It's the Marine and Auto weatherstripping that's at lowes or home depot. 3/4 inch wide, 1/4 inch thick
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Jace
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1302. PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2003 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wooo!! first work related injury!!!

Well anyways after spending $25 for THEM to cut the steel so I wouldnt get hurt... while pounding away at the steel I accidentally slid my foot across it (no shoes on, my fault) . Of course I felt the pain, and knew it was bad... and sure enough when I looked down I saw blood rushing out.

So I screamed "GET THE CAMERA!"... but unfortuntaly my mom was too busy following me cleaning up the blood so I couldn't get a good battle damage picture.

It didn't stop me from working though, as I was soaking my foot I was pounding away at the metal (fitting it over the wood, making squares)...

Well... while I'm on this topic, can anyone top that?
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TheKornKid
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1303. PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2003 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

while i was using a power drill to put in some 3" screws in mine the drill slipped off the screw and jabbed my big toe, i was pushing down pretty hard on it and it left a large purple bruise on my big toenail....that didn't go away till it grew out, lol. And i had a few near-misses with a table saw. shocked.gif
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Zeotti
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1304. PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2003 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh my god do you guys have common sense?

Never ever work with drills/saws without shoes on, especially when you're sitting down.

You guys got what was coming!

*Btw you guys should make a little work bench*
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PiccoloNamek
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1305. PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2003 7:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Urgent Reply with quote

-Momo- wrote:
PiccoloNamek wrote:
God damn it. Ok.

TO THOSE OF YOU WHO MADE A PATSTER-BASED DESIGN: What the hell kind of weather stripping did you use? I mean good GOD I've already tried out 3 different brands, and none of them worked well! They were either too strong, or too weak, or too spongy, or not spongy enough, and it never ends! I can't get the outside of the panel to hit the contacts properly because the center of the arrow panel just bends inward, bringing the outside edges up!

So PLEASE, if anyone has a good suggestion tell me. Make you give me the exact brand and type you used!


It's the Marine and Auto weatherstripping that's at lowes or home depot. 3/4 inch wide, 1/4 inch thick


And wouldn't you know, I've never seen this at any of the home depots I've visited. >_<
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Momo -YHB-
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1306. PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2003 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You might be able to find it at a walmart even. I'm not sure how the other home depots or lowes are, I was just assuming they were all the same.
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Shadow_Dragonz
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1307. PostPosted: Wed Dec 10, 2003 11:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zeotti wrote:
Geez 100-150 hours?

Maybe if you're making 2 sets of doubles pads by yourself. (kidding E10.gif).

My DDRHomepad took about 50 hours, but thats without access to a jigsaw until the end of the project. I used a very, very dull hacksaw with my MDF and Pegboard, and believe me thats a pain. My lucite-cutting jigsaw blade which ended up not even working right cracked 3 panels and I was forced to buy new ones and cut it myself with the same, dull hacksaw. That took a good 12 hours, not to mention they fit absolutely horrid. Then again that was last year when I was 14, and I was very impatient at the time. I planned on getting it done in under 4 days. Big mistake.

Anyways I really don't believe that you can't make a riptide pad or whatever in 100-150 hours, because I was talking to riptide in the 3-4 days that he recorded the pad making, and he wasn't rushing it at all. By the way I had a different alias at the time hehe.

I already have the metal panels which I will still be using for my new riptide pad, and I believe that was one of the most time consuming parts of the whole process. That and pre-drilling/screwing 8 MDF rails onto each panel O_O. When I make my riptide pad I'm pretty sure it'll turn out awesome. The only thing I'm really really dreading is the constant trimming of the lucite... Gah I really hate that material =/. Besides that I think everything is quite straightforward... The wiring will be quite time consuming I anticipate, but nothing more than 4 hours. The big hassle is soldering and wrapping the wires around every other wire. But in the end I think I'll probably spend a good week of casual 3-4 hour a day sessions corresponding to his instructional videos. Only have one modified part of his design, and that's using pegboard instead of a large piece of 33x33 wood which would be a huge hassle to drive home in a regular car. Plus it would end up being much lighter and more friendly to the carpet.

I'm excited about building my pad, but I know I definitely can't rush like I did with my last pad, because everything ended up being screwey.

What am I looking forward to?

-Wiring
-Fooling with sensitivity
-Playing on it constantly

But I do have one question...

Does the riptide pad have problems with static at all? Seems like it wouldn't since the wiring wouldn't be touching plastic or anything, but I'm not sure. This would make it much easier on me so I could use a Gamestop controller instead of fooling with a much harder to use Sony Controller.


I do not know of any static problems. Also you should know that few people have problems with static. But hey what do I know E4.gif .

You can use a Gamestop controller. Though it is recommended to use a sony PSX controller. It is more difficult to solder to, if you don't like to have smaller points, but then you get the quality assurance that sony brings E13.gif .


Jace wrote:
Well so far I've spent over $140 for this project and I still need to get a controller and the metal.

lexan: $44
brackets: $24
wood items: $30
misc screws/tools: $40


I ended up buying Cat-3 wire. There was cat 5 there but it didn't have 5 tiny wires inside, only 4. (4 for arrows 1 for ground?) Will Cat-3 work?

Also, I heard somewhere that 10 3/4 x 10 3/4 was the correct measurements for the acrylic plastics, is that correct? I don't want to have wasted $44!

I need a PS2 to USB adapter... any websites where I can order a cheap one?

More questions to come! (like always)


Lexan...I bought Plexi for about $25 erm.gif . But I spent about $100 on tools, bits, solder, etc disturb.gif . For the CAT-3 wire, there isn't enough wires in it. Yes, CAT-5 wire has 5 wires, though they are pairs of 2. For the acrylic, it is 10 7/8 x 10 7/8 (as posted by hooded_paladin).


Spartacus wrote:
Im gunna build a pad and i was wondering if i really needed to have unused squares be plywood with sheet metal over them? Would it work just fine to put plexiglass or whatever there too as long as its the same thickness?


You don't need to have them be plywood with sheet metal on them. That is to give them the arcade dance pad feel and look. You can use whatever you like and such, and yes it would work with the same thickness. Remember, this is YOUR pad you are building, make it the way you want E13.gif .


Little Firefly wrote:
mine doesn't have any sheetmetal covering the solid panels.

I was wondering if someone could point me to advice on cutting polycarbonate?


I would score or mark where you'll be cutting, so you can get a strait cut. You can use a jigsaw or cirular saw to cut the acrylic, but be sure to cut it slow. Also, don't forget to get a blade that is made for that cutting or you'll screw up the blade and/or screw up the acrylic.


MarKoPoLo wrote:
ok i have a simple wiring question here. one panel of metal in the buttons gos to ground the other panel goes to the corresponding button on the controller right?

oh hey i would just like every one to note that i have taken just over a work week and a couple days so far ( 1 hour each day) and im already almost done. just need to assemble some of the peices together. so i figure it shouldnt take that long at all. definetly not 100-150. if done right not even 50 hrs. and thats still with the right messurements.

just a side note: it seems im always starting the next page whenever i post these days. coincidence? i think not! hah!


I don't quite get the question. Well, if you use screws, lets say you have 4 pairs of 2. The first one will be Positive and the second will be Ground. So when the metal touches, it'll connect the circuit and register. You could also make one contact ground or positive, then have the glued/taped sheet metal on top on the acrylic be the other. Did that make sense E19.gif ?

Okay, about time building a dance pad, it varies. Each dance pad requires different tools (it could happy.gif ), supplies, etc. Time will also depend on how much knowledge you have, anyone else helping you, tools already availible, etc. A ddrhomepad dance pad will take a shorter amount of time than a Riptide ddr dance pad. Also, if you decide to add lights and/or a trick bar, then you'll add more time to the construcion of the dance pad. For myself, I have put it about 30-50 hours already into my dance pad, and I haven't even begun to build it. I have just been researching, asking questions, buying supplies, designing new contacts, etc.

You always get the page before I get to E2.gif . Ah well, E13.gif .


Jace wrote:
Wooo!! first work related injury!!!

Well anyways after spending $25 for THEM to cut the steel so I wouldnt get hurt... while pounding away at the steel I accidentally slid my foot across it (no shoes on, my fault) . Of course I felt the pain, and knew it was bad... and sure enough when I looked down I saw blood rushing out.

So I screamed "GET THE CAMERA!"... but unfortuntaly my mom was too busy following me cleaning up the blood so I couldn't get a good battle damage picture.

It didn't stop me from working though, as I was soaking my foot I was pounding away at the metal (fitting it over the wood, making squares)...

Well... while I'm on this topic, can anyone top that?


Rubber mallet??? E19.gif And, you are excited by your first injury blink.gif . Hmm...I don't know what to say. I didn't think it was great having my first accident...I thought it hurt...a lot! E15.gif Blue Beefman had an accident. He made a nice little hole in his thumb biggrin.gif http://www.ddrfreak.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=6919079&highlight=#6919079


-Momo- wrote:
You might be able to find it at a walmart even. I'm not sure how the other home depots or lowes are, I was just assuming they were all the same.


I wish disgust.gif .
--------
For anyone who would like information on soldering to a Sony PSX controller, you can find the information here: http://www.geekvanity.com/sonycontroller/. That'll show you how to solder to the points, how to get the carbinite off, and myths on soldering to a Sony PSX controller. *Information from FAQ*


1) I have to wonder how many times I must ask a question until it gets anwered E2.gif . Well here I go, again. Count 4: Can you use 16 guage wire for the controller circuit? In other words, can you use 16 guage wire instead of the CAT-5 wire?

2) Does anyone have any ideas on contact ideas when you add lights to the dance pad? What about maximizing the surface area to better ensure that you don't get misteps?

3) Does anyone know where I can host pictures? I'd like to scan my ideas for the contact design and have some help in creating it, or seeing what would work best?

4) Anyone know where ddrhomepad, Riptide, Patster, or Blue Beefman went???

5) Does anyone know the dimentions for the back so you can add a trick bar? What about the dimentions for the trick bar?

That's all I can think of for the time being. Thanks E13.gif

Shadow_Dragonz

EDIT: Wrong numbering on questions. Wow, that's one long post... biggrin.gif .
6) Did I miss anything?
EDIT: Added more instead of another post E1.gif .
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hooded__paladin
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1308. PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2003 7:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shadow_Dragonz wrote:
For the CAT-3 wire, there isn't enough wires in it. Yes, CAT-5 wire has 5 wires, though they are pairs of 2.

well, Cat-3 has 4 wires. Cat-5 has 8 wires/4 twisted pairs (not 5 twisted pairs)
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Shadow_Dragonz
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1309. PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2003 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hooded__paladin wrote:
Shadow_Dragonz wrote:
For the CAT-3 wire, there isn't enough wires in it. Yes, CAT-5 wire has 5 wires, though they are pairs of 2.

well, Cat-3 has 4 wires. Cat-5 has 8 wires/4 twisted pairs (not 5 twisted pairs)


Everyone makes mistakes riiight.gif . The point was that there are enough wires in CAT-5 to use for the circuit. Thanks for the correction.

Shadow_Dragonz
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rk_cr
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1310. PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2003 6:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hooded__paladin wrote:
Shadow_Dragonz wrote:
For the CAT-3 wire, there isn't enough wires in it. Yes, CAT-5 wire has 5 wires, though they are pairs of 2.

well, Cat-3 has 4 wires. Cat-5 has 8 wires/4 twisted pairs (not 5 twisted pairs)


Be warned that Cat 3 are twisted but nearly to the same power of CAT 5. It's such a pain to untwist anything longer than a foot...

BTW, to answer 4), I have no clue where most of them have gone but I know you can get a hold of Blue Beefman on AIM. He was the only one I was able to talk to that could help me figure out how the heck his contact design worked...


Last edited by rk_cr on Thu Dec 11, 2003 6:35 pm, edited 1 time in total
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JohnWayne2k4
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1311. PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2003 6:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can anyone give me any info on possibly modding the arrows on a NEO pad to lexan and changing the foil and copper contacts to a sheet system. I've seen the essential mmbox mod and thought it may be something like that...anything that could clear this up would help...heh.
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Shadow_Dragonz
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1312. PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2003 8:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rk_cr wrote:
hooded__paladin wrote:
Shadow_Dragonz wrote:
For the CAT-3 wire, there isn't enough wires in it. Yes, CAT-5 wire has 5 wires, though they are pairs of 2.

well, Cat-3 has 4 wires. Cat-5 has 8 wires/4 twisted pairs (not 5 twisted pairs)


Be warned that Cat 3 are twisted but nearly to the same power of CAT 5. It's such a pain to untwist anything longer than a foot...

BTW, to answer 4), I have no clue where most of them have gone but I know you can get a hold of Blue Beefman on AIM. He was the only one I was able to talk to that could help me figure out how the heck his contact design worked...


Would you be able to PM me the information so that I could get a hold of him? I don't think that he wants to be mobbed by all of us at once E4.gif , and maybe he could help answer the wiring questions and help with the contact design. Thanks.

Untangling the wires is a pain...I thought it was phone wire before actually finding out...woops E4.gif . I tore through a perfectly good phone cord and then after untangling it, figured that I couldn't use it. We live and learn laugh.gif .

Shadow_Dragonz
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Jace
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1313. PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2003 11:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I assumed that since the CAT-3 wire had 6 wires in it i could use it? am I wrong? 4 go to the arrows and 1 to ground, correct? ive never done anything like this before...
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Shadow_Dragonz
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1314. PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2003 4:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jace wrote:
I assumed that since the CAT-3 wire had 6 wires in it i could use it? am I wrong? 4 go to the arrows and 1 to ground, correct? ive never done anything like this before...


You are correct; however, you'd probably want to split the ground wire into four wires to make things simpler. That way, you can have each arrow will have a ground wire (so they can trigger) and it'll be easeir than running one long piece of wire though out the entire dance pad.
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JohnWayne2k4
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1315. PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2003 3:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm considering building my own pad and instead of cutting costs as actually wondering if there would be any more ways of enhancing strength, increasing sensitivity while getting the least amount of arrow flex possible and keeping it mostly metal...I hate wood lol.
I was also considering titanium sheet metal for the pad cover... would this be viable aside from it being overly expensive.
Again I'm looking to build a pad that feels as solid as a concrete floor and is sensitive ... any suggestions on dream materials or proven designs.
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hooded__paladin
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1316. PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2003 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shadow_Dragonz wrote:
Jace wrote:
I assumed that since the CAT-3 wire had 6 wires in it i could use it? am I wrong? 4 go to the arrows and 1 to ground, correct? ive never done anything like this before...


You are correct; however, you'd probably want to split the ground wire into four wires to make things simpler. That way, you can have each arrow will have a ground wire (so they can trigger) and it'll be easeir than running one long piece of wire though out the entire dance pad.

NOOOO!
as I said, Cat3 has 4 wires in it. 2 pairs (in my experience, they're usually not twisted) It's normal telephone wire.
Don't ask me how they got started calling wires by these numbers. My best guess is that some company made a two-conductor wire and called it their category 1, 3 conductors was then cat 2, 4 was cat 3, I'll guess that 6 was cat 4 and cat 5 was 8 wires
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1317. PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2003 9:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was wondering if anybody could supply me with a wiring diagram for the redoctance cbox. It has 15 pins but only nine are needed so I just wanted to know which wires went to which pin out of the 15 pins. If somebody could do this it would be greatly appreciated.
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1318. PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2003 12:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zeotti wrote:
Oh my god do you guys have common sense?

Never ever work with drills/saws without shoes on, especially when you're sitting down.


lol i had shoes on, and i was standing up, screwing the screw downwords, the metal pad was upside down and i was screwing screws from underneith....if i hadn't had shoes on i think my toenail would have been cracked into many pieces (that would Hurt), but i just had a bruise under the nail. riiight.gif my bad
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1319. PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2003 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i am thinking about making a DDRhomepad, i am currently broke (-$20 actually) and i am first going to mod my soft pad. but i was thinking would i get my money out of this metal pad, and would it last. it takes me forever to get money and i just need more bang for my buck. or should i get something like a CF pad, i heard they break down after a few months and seems like from wat i heard a ddrhomepad lasts longer and since u make it its easier to fix up. well it will be a few months before i get the moeny for metal after i mod ma soft pad so this isnt something im gonna rush into.
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