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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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MarKoPoLo
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1280. PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2003 6:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey guys i just decided to post here because it seems nothing of interest has been said in awhile. hah! honestly im just bored and have desided to ask some questions.

1. should i have to worry about the pad surging for any reason? what i mean is should i have to worry about it frying the controller or the console?

2. why do some (if not all) use two layers of acrylic with the graphic inbetween?

3. you guys think it matter if i use contact cement to stick some parts together? ...i know this is a stupid question but like i said im bored and i felt like asking questions....trust me im really bored....really REALLY bored!

4. cant think of a fourth....damn....guess i must also be tired...HaH!

well answer them if you wish....or just answer the the first two...or answer none.....i cant make you.....or can i... E13.gif E15.gif

enjoy
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PiccoloNamek
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1281. PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2003 9:21 pm    Post subject: Urgent Reply with quote

God damn it. Ok.

TO THOSE OF YOU WHO MADE A PATSTER-BASED DESIGN: What the hell kind of weather stripping did you use? I mean good GOD I've already tried out 3 different brands, and none of them worked well! They were either too strong, or too weak, or too spongy, or not spongy enough, and it never ends! I can't get the outside of the panel to hit the contacts properly because the center of the arrow panel just bends inward, bringing the outside edges up!

So PLEASE, if anyone has a good suggestion tell me. Make you give me the exact brand and type you used!
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Shadow_Dragonz
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1282. PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2003 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarKoPoLo wrote:
hey guys i just decided to post here because it seems nothing of interest has been said in awhile. hah! honestly im just bored and have desided to ask some questions.

1. should i have to worry about the pad surging for any reason? what i mean is should i have to worry about it frying the controller or the console?

2. why do some (if not all) use two layers of acrylic with the graphic inbetween?

3. you guys think it matter if i use contact cement to stick some parts together? ...i know this is a stupid question but like i said im bored and i felt like asking questions....trust me im really bored....really REALLY bored!

4. cant think of a fourth....damn....guess i must also be tired...HaH!

well answer them if you wish....or just answer the the first two...or answer none.....i cant make you.....or can i... E13.gif E15.gif

enjoy


1) You shouldn't worry about a controller frying if you properly ground it to the dance pad. Static should only be a problem if you are using shoes and/or playing on the carpet...though the dance pad shouldn't slide due to its weight. About frying the console, you should only worry if you are adding lights to the dance pad, and that should only be a problem if the ciruits cross each other.

2) This is so the graphic can be placed for the dance pad. I do not know of how you could "paint" the graphic on like the arcade yet. So, it is placed in between 2 pieces to ensure that the image stays there. Also, the image shouldn't/doesn't get damaged while using 2 pieces of acrylic.

3) I don't think that would be bad. Though I do not know what kind of glue to use if you are using incandecent lights. Actually, I wonder if the contracts would get too hot and melt the glue. Now I have a question. Would the contact get too hot for using incandecent lights? What about if the voltage isn't regulated?

4) I think you are tired. E13.gif

5) You can answer your own questions. E15.gif


PiccoloNamek wrote:
God damn it. Ok.

TO THOSE OF YOU WHO MADE A PATSTER-BASED DESIGN: What the hell kind of weather stripping did you use? I mean good GOD I've already tried out 3 different brands, and none of them worked well! They were either too strong, or too weak, or too spongy, or not spongy enough, and it never ends! I can't get the outside of the panel to hit the contacts properly because the center of the arrow panel just bends inward, bringing the outside edges up!

So PLEASE, if anyone has a good suggestion tell me. Make you give me the exact brand and type you used!


I do not know what kind of weather stipping they use. I just have some from walmart, and I hope that it is the right kind riiight.gif . It would help out a lot if you could tell us what brands you got, and possibly the dimentions of them.

Also, it sounds like you aren't using plexiglass. Plexiglass, at .22" or 1/4" shouldn't really bend. When you put two pieces, that's 1/2" or .5" thick! Getting those to bend to have your problem doesn't seem feesible to me at the moment. What thinkness acrylic did you get and what brand?

And whoagh, don't get so upset E1.gif. Things will be okay. E13.gif

Shadow_Dragonz

P.S. Again, 3rd time now disgust.gif, is 16 guage wire okay for the controller circuit?
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PiccoloNamek
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1283. PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2003 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know what brand it is, but I do know for certain that it's 1/4 inch thick plexiglass.
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Nikorasu
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1284. PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2003 3:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Never mind...mine's not metal.
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SteelFox15
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1285. PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2003 9:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alright, i just finished soldering the controller for my pad and what a nightmare it was. i really dont want to do it again so i want to prevent it from shorting out at all costs. ive read a lot about pads generating too much static and the need to ground the pad. but could someone please explain exactly how to do that, like where to attatch wires too and such because im not the brightest bulb when it comes to electronics (excuse the pun E13.gif )
thanks a lot in advance!
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Jace
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1286. PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2003 1:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I'm new to this, so here I go.
I got sick of the arcade's arrows being so darn stubborn (meaning I put all my weight, 120 pounds, on an arrow and it doesnt register) . And since I've always wanted my own pad I've decided I am going to build one tomorrow.

Me, my friend, and my dad are all going to work on it tomorrow and I have a few questions to ask (i would read all 65 pages but I gotta go to bed soon, gotta wake up early =o)

1. How much time will it take 3 low skill people to make the pad?

2. What kind of acrylic plastic should we buy? I hear Lexan is the strongest, but is it worth spending money for something TOO strong?

3. Should I buy a cheap Playstation controller, or the official Sony one? Does it make a difference?

4. I only have $100... is that enough?


Okay that's it for now, but when I need more help I'll come back. Thanks!
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Zeotti
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1287. PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2003 12:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm planning on taking apart my DDRHomepad today which I abandoned over a year ago due to frustration, and turning it into a Riptide pad. I have a few questions though.

1) What should I use to scrape off the black stuff on the PS controller PBC? I have experience with soldering controllers so thats all I need to know.

2) Can I use a 33x33 piece of pegboard instead of the 33x33 piece of wood as a base? I have a regular car and last time it was a pain to drive the piece of pegboard home on the top of the roof. I imagine the wood would be even worse. (Edit: I already have a 33x33 piece of pegboard from my last pad making attempt)

3) Would a metal fast cut definitely not melt the duraplex? Last time I used a "special" plexiclass cutting bit which ended up cracking 3 pieces of duraplex, as well as melting the edges.

Thanks alot guys, glad I could finally get my butt up and do some work.
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Jace
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1288. PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2003 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I bought (most of) the supplies today. The only thing I could not find was stainless steel, it's like impossible to find!

For the plastic... I had to go for the best; 8 10 3/4 x 10 3/4 peices of .093 lexan. I still need to buy a ps2 controller and get an adapter for it. cant really start production yet because that steel is pretty much the first thing I use...


Oh and i'm building it according to 'ddrhomepad'
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Frosty555
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1289. PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2003 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jace wrote:
Well I'm new to this, so here I go.
I got sick of the arcade's arrows being so darn stubborn (meaning I put all my weight, 120 pounds, on an arrow and it doesnt register) . And since I've always wanted my own pad I've decided I am going to build one tomorrow.

Me, my friend, and my dad are all going to work on it tomorrow and I have a few questions to ask (i would read all 65 pages but I gotta go to bed soon, gotta wake up early =o)

1. How much time will it take 3 low skill people to make the pad?

2. What kind of acrylic plastic should we buy? I hear Lexan is the strongest, but is it worth spending money for something TOO strong?

3. Should I buy a cheap Playstation controller, or the official Sony one? Does it make a difference?

4. I only have $100... is that enough?


Okay that's it for now, but when I need more help I'll come back. Thanks!


1. In hours, maybe 100 to 150 hours if you're trying to be very precise (which is really, really important for a ddr pad or the whole project will fall on it's face). That works out to maybe a month and a half of dedicated work, including time to calibrate the pad, tweak the screws, file down the plexiglass till it is just right etc. That number doesn't include shopping time to get the materials. It took me a little less but I'm not half bad at using tools.

2. It isn't possible to get too strong. You don't NEED the really expensive stuff, but if it's too cheap and flimsy it will buckle under your feet, and after half a year of playing the pieces of plexi will start to break on you. Using the harder stuff will save you a lot of grief in the long run, so you might as well go for it.

3. The official sony controller will be a doggy to solder. The contacts are extremely delicate and interwoven, and will tear off if you mess it up (great for good response with a carbon button, but to solder it... ugh...). Go for a cheap one, preferably without turbo buttons, or autofire. The SuperPad PSX 1000s have HUGE contacts if you can find it.

If you get a controller with analog sticks, do NOT cut the ribbon off and remove the analog sticks from the board. Be careful not to break any wires on the ribbon either.

4. $100 US... hmm.. assuming you already have all the tools you need, that will get you almost everything you need except buttons, wire, and plexiglass. Plexiglass will be expensive though. I got lucky and found a store that was throwing out plexiglass shelving and took that (turned out to be pretty high quality stuff, despite the sun-baked on yellowed packing tape all over it goog.gif.
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tolookah
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1290. PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2003 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Frosty555 wrote:
Jace wrote:

4. I only have $100... is that enough?

4. $100 US... hmm.. assuming you already have all the tools you need, that will get you almost everything you need except buttons, wire, and plexiglass. Plexiglass will be expensive though. I got lucky and found a store that was throwing out plexiglass shelving and took that (turned out to be pretty high quality stuff, despite the sun-baked on yellowed packing tape all over it goog.gif.


well, if you shop around right, you could probably manage something around 120-130 for the pad... and i would expect that. It seems alot of people on this board start a pad design with many many ideas on how to cut corners on cost and in the end, spend about that much (hell, even i did that...). probably for me though the most expensive parts were hyzod pieces (similar to lucite, a polycarbonate). but that's mostly because i have 8 fully functional buttons. the kicker for me was i accidentally fried a gamestop controller, which imho must be the shoddiest piece of craftsmanship i have seen in a while (well, other than some 3rd party ddr soft mat that claimed it needed 30 Mega Amperes [MA, as opposed to mA]) ... so within a month or so, expect another $20 going into the project ...

edit: one of these days, i will set up a site where the instructions to build a pad how i built mine will be put up, with pictures and all... though this will be after i build my second one, because the first one, although my baby, looks like crap
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Zeotti
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1291. PostPosted: Sat Dec 06, 2003 10:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geez 100-150 hours?

Maybe if you're making 2 sets of doubles pads by yourself. (kidding E10.gif).

My DDRHomepad took about 50 hours, but thats without access to a jigsaw until the end of the project. I used a very, very dull hacksaw with my MDF and Pegboard, and believe me thats a pain. My lucite-cutting jigsaw blade which ended up not even working right cracked 3 panels and I was forced to buy new ones and cut it myself with the same, dull hacksaw. That took a good 12 hours, not to mention they fit absolutely horrid. Then again that was last year when I was 14, and I was very impatient at the time. I planned on getting it done in under 4 days. Big mistake.

Anyways I really don't believe that you can't make a riptide pad or whatever in 100-150 hours, because I was talking to riptide in the 3-4 days that he recorded the pad making, and he wasn't rushing it at all. By the way I had a different alias at the time hehe.

I already have the metal panels which I will still be using for my new riptide pad, and I believe that was one of the most time consuming parts of the whole process. That and pre-drilling/screwing 8 MDF rails onto each panel O_O. When I make my riptide pad I'm pretty sure it'll turn out awesome. The only thing I'm really really dreading is the constant trimming of the lucite... Gah I really hate that material =/. Besides that I think everything is quite straightforward... The wiring will be quite time consuming I anticipate, but nothing more than 4 hours. The big hassle is soldering and wrapping the wires around every other wire. But in the end I think I'll probably spend a good week of casual 3-4 hour a day sessions corresponding to his instructional videos. Only have one modified part of his design, and that's using pegboard instead of a large piece of 33x33 wood which would be a huge hassle to drive home in a regular car. Plus it would end up being much lighter and more friendly to the carpet.

I'm excited about building my pad, but I know I definitely can't rush like I did with my last pad, because everything ended up being screwey.

What am I looking forward to?

-Wiring
-Fooling with sensitivity
-Playing on it constantly

But I do have one question...

Does the riptide pad have problems with static at all? Seems like it wouldn't since the wiring wouldn't be touching plastic or anything, but I'm not sure. This would make it much easier on me so I could use a Gamestop controller instead of fooling with a much harder to use Sony Controller.
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Jace
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1292. PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2003 1:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well so far I've spent over $140 for this project and I still need to get a controller and the metal.

lexan: $44
brackets: $24
wood items: $30
misc screws/tools: $40


I ended up buying Cat-3 wire. There was cat 5 there but it didn't have 5 tiny wires inside, only 4. (4 for arrows 1 for ground?) Will Cat-3 work?

Also, I heard somewhere that 10 3/4 x 10 3/4 was the correct measurements for the acrylic plastics, is that correct? I don't want to have wasted $44!

I need a PS2 to USB adapter... any websites where I can order a cheap one?

More questions to come! (like always)
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hooded__paladin
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1293. PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2003 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Jace wrote:
I ended up buying Cat-3 wire. There was cat 5 there but it didn't have 5 tiny wires inside, only 4. (4 for arrows 1 for ground?) Will Cat-3 work?

um... cat5 has 8 wires in there (4 twisted pairs)
cat3 is telephone wire... 4 wires... too few
Jace wrote:
Also, I heard somewhere that 10 3/4 x 10 3/4 was the correct measurements for the acrylic plastics, is that correct? I don't want to have wasted $44!

uh-oh again... I think it's 10 7/8" because you don't need a whole 1/4" extra space... but see if you can make it work because otherwise you will have to buy again
Jace wrote:
I need a PS2 to USB adapter... any websites where I can order a cheap one?

www.levelsix.com
I find the EMS USB2 works well (some people report lag... I dunno why cuz it's always been perfect for me)
but also check the compatibility list on www.stepmania.com (look for "USB adapters" on the left) to see which ones will work with DDR
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Little Firefly
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1294. PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2003 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have a link here somewhere with instructions on how to build a PC adapter.

http://www.emulatronia.com/reportajes/directpad/psxeng/index.htm

I haven't built it, but my friend luke did. Apparently it works ok.
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Zeotti
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1295. PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2003 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Earlier today I bought a whole bunch of supplies for my pad.

I used a 33x33 piece of pegboard instead of plywood and so far it works quite well and is very lightweight. I got all of the 33" boards I needed at Home Depot for me, and I even got the acrylic panels cut while I was there. Anyways, I used the metal panels I had which I took from my old DDRHomepad and screwed em right onto the base. So far I have a semi-complete base with metal panels, and I am planning on cutting the supports for the arrow panels tomorrow, as well as trimming down the acrylic panels with a Metal Fast Cut blade (specially made for fastest cuts with thin metals - should work great), and lastly making the triangles. The next day I plan to attach the weatherstripping and get all the screws placed in, then proceed to trim the acrylic panels some more until they're perfect. Day after that I plan to do all of the wiring and go out and buy arrow graphics at Kinkos or something. Last day, I'll test the wiring and make some adjustments to the sensitivity, attach the arrow graphics, and start playing on my pad! However, chances are, everything will take longer than expected and I wouldn't be surprised if I finished it in a couple weeks if I don't have enough time after school.

So far so good!
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rk_cr
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1296. PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2003 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys,
My project is nearing completion... however, I have run into a small stumbling block when it comes to soldering.

I decided that I would go with the more dependable PSX controller. However, upon opening up the controller, I find that it is just a little different than all the normal PSX controller diagrams that I see out there. Can anyone give me a hint as to where the solder points are for triangle, X, O, square, and ground?

Here's a link to the pic (sorry about the low quality of the webcam, I tried my best to get the side of the controller in focus): here

Edit: Here is where I *think* that the solder points are. The red circles are the four buttons (plus start, the pic doesn't include select but both are much more obvious than the four buttons), and the blue is the ground. It's really just the blue one I'm worried about. The link is here.

Second edit: If I end up using the arrows intead of the controller points, it's okay to just scrape off the black stuff, drill through there, put my writes through and solder, right? I am thinking it might be better that way because then it would be easier for me to put all the ground wires in (i.e., not trying to stack them all on one contact point).
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Spartacus
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1297. PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2003 3:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im gunna build a pad and i was wondering if i really needed to have unused squares be plywood with sheet metal over them? Would it work just fine to put plexiglass or whatever there too as long as its the same thickness?
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Little Firefly
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1298. PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2003 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mine doesn't have any sheetmetal covering the solid panels.

I was wondering if someone could point me to advice on cutting polycarbonate?
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SteelFox15
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1299. PostPosted: Tue Dec 09, 2003 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

rk_cr wrote:
Hey guys,
My project is nearing completion... however, I have run into a small stumbling block when it comes to soldering.

I decided that I would go with the more dependable PSX controller. However, upon opening up the controller, I find that it is just a little different than all the normal PSX controller diagrams that I see out there. Can anyone give me a hint as to where the solder points are for triangle, X, O, square, and ground?

Here's a link to the pic (sorry about the low quality of the webcam, I tried my best to get the side of the controller in focus): here

Edit: Here is where I *think* that the solder points are. The red circles are the four buttons (plus start, the pic doesn't include select but both are much more obvious than the four buttons), and the blue is the ground. It's really just the blue one I'm worried about. The link is here.

Second edit: If I end up using the arrows intead of the controller points, it's okay to just scrape off the black stuff, drill through there, put my writes through and solder, right? I am thinking it might be better that way because then it would be easier for me to put all the ground wires in (i.e., not trying to stack them all on one contact point).



I used the same kind of controller that you are using. (reffering to points that are circled in the second diagram) the soldering point in the bottom left of your picture would be the one that is used for start. the point to the right of that would be used for square. the point which is above the blue one could be used for triangle. the point that is in the middle of the diagram could be used for x. however. the point on the far right would have something to do with the trigger buttons, so im assuming you dont want to use it. the point for circle is the copper point which is directly above the processer (the black chip in the middle of the controller). the point circled in blue could be used as a ground, but is not specific to any one button.

also, if you were to use the arrow buttons instead, you could scrape off the graphite (i think thats what the black stuff is) and use the points underneath. and yes, you could just drill through them and solder the wire from the back, thats what i did. you could use smaller copper points which are similar to the ones in your diagram without scraping stuff off, but it's up to you. unfortunately i dont have anything which i could post on the internet to show you, but hopefully this helps
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