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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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Shadow_Dragonz
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1260. PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2003 11:38 pm    Post subject: A reply to a question...andanother question Reply with quote

---Previous Questions---
Shadow_Dragonz wrote:
Hi,

It seems that no one is posting...ah well. I'll give some questions that should have one's mind thinking E15.gif

1) What do you believe is the best paper to get the images printed on?
2) What is the best paper to get the images printed on for the lighting?
3) Would anyone suggest laminating the picture to have it last longer?
4) Do you just slap the picture down in the middle of the two pieces of acrylic or do you glue it in, or would you tape it in?
5) Is there any way to get the images ... I guess painted onto a lamination or something of the sort? This is so you can have an image like Riptide's and not have to worry about it at all.
6) Has anyone else found any other kind of contact that would work...I mean other than the weatherstripping.
7) Where do you find out about the electronics and circuitry? E19.gif
8) Does anyone know the dimentions for the trick bar?
9) What kind of pipe would you need to get for the trick bar?
10) How do you, or what do you think is the best way, to mount/place the controller in the dance pad?

Well, those are all the questions that I can think of at the moment E15.gif .

Thanks in advance

Shadow_Dragonz



----------
tolookah wrote:
for that circuitry question (for the lighting) i knew about it because im currently schooling for electrical engineering, so by now it's second nature to think things throuroughly. it took me a while to actually catch on what's going on in the official sony controller, but after a bunch of doing other stuff, i remembered to look for the durrent controlling resistor, which lets you put tiny resistances in the buttons, (up to a few kilo-ohms)...

as for other contacts that work, im currently using a craft foam, which is much cheaper than weather stripping, at about $0.50 per 10x5 sheet, and for me, it seems to work pretty good. the foam has the same function as the weather stripping, and i just used it because i knew it was cheap.

now to add another question to your list...
12(i think 12 is next up) : does anyone know enough USB specs to spoof the xbox to think there's a dancepad attached?


An electrical degree! Wow, that's more than me. I'm still in high school, though it's my last year laugh.gif . And here I am trying to learn all of it, and buying books too =D. I won't get into what I'm actually going to major in...that's another story biggrin.gif . It's great that you are doing that. Setting up lights should be a breeze to you. I would think so, but what do I know. E1.gif

Well, here is a question for your question. Does the X-Box use a controller for the dance pad or a USB port? I'm asking this because I do not own an X-Box. I think that's as far as I should go into that E4.gif . Hopefully someone will be able to help you out. I forgot that there is one on the X-Box.... riiight.gif

I'll try to think of something, and if I have time, I'll do some research. E13.gif

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tolookah
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1261. PostPosted: Sat Nov 29, 2003 11:51 pm    Post subject: Re: A reply to a question...andanother question Reply with quote

Shadow_Dragonz wrote:

Well, here is a question for your question. Does the X-Box use a controller for the dance pad or a USB port? I'm asking this because I do not own an X-Box. I think that's as far as I should go into that E4.gif . Hopefully someone will be able to help you out. I forgot that there is one on the X-Box.... riiight.gif


the Xbox controller port is a modified USB port (similar to the Gamecubes modified USB port)... so to answer your question, yes, it uses the controller port, and yes, it uses a USB port. its the standard plug in for all xbox periferals, and on xbox live ultramix uses the ID of the controller or pad to know which one you are using, and tell all the people you are playing which one you're using... my homepad comes up as a controller, when in reality, its very much not. so im trying to fool it...
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Snof
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1262. PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2003 10:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shadow_Dragonz wrote:
---Snof---
I would think that the spring would damage the acrylic. Am I wrong about that? Well, with a spring, there shouldn't ever be a time where you would need to replace it, which is great! I hope that everything comes together and works out for you the way you've planned.


I don't think it will cause any damage. The pressure that the spring pushes up with is pretty small, just enough to hold the panels up to the corner brackets. Personally I'm more worried about damage from the arrow slamming down into the screws, though they'll be set so that it barely has to move down at all, so it shouldn't hit too hard. If any problems occour because of the springs I'll be sure to post them here.
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Subwaymonkey382
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1263. PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2003 2:19 pm    Post subject: building a home made metal pad for xbox Reply with quote

I'm building a ddr pad for xbox because i have just gotten ddr ultramix and the konami soft pad is very good but it is nothing like the arcade so if anyone could tell me if I could take the circuit board out of my soft pad and build around that. I would also like to know how to wire the arrows to the circuit board i have a general idea but i dont know exactly how to do it......thanks
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Little Firefly
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1264. PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2003 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok I got this white weather stripping. It is a 10' roll, 7/16" thick and 3/4" wide. it seems rather spongy, is this what i need?

And i still need mending brackets. blarg. E2.gif
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Shadow_Dragonz
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1265. PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2003 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Little Firefly wrote:
ok I got this white weather stripping. It is a 10' roll, 7/16" thick and 3/4" wide. it seems rather spongy, is this what i need?

And i still need mending brackets. blarg. E2.gif


I don't believe that is what you'll want. It will work; however, it will not work they way you may want it to. It is more spongy as you said, so it may not compress that well, and sensitivity could be affected. I believe what you have is weather seal. I'd try it and see if it works the way you want it to. You could always just test it out on one arrow and if it isn't what you want, then you can find something else that will work.

You can find weatherstripping at Home Depot, Lowe's, Walmart, and possible other stores. Those are the ones that I know of at the moment.

Hope that helps

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Little Firefly
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1266. PostPosted: Sun Nov 30, 2003 10:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

yeah i did get it at lowe's. it is weather stripping, i plaed with it for a while, and i think it bounces back very fast, so i should be ok. i only wonder if it will be strong enough to support the weight of the plexi. it is about 3/16" higher than i need, so it will always be slightly compressed which will help, as when you press it, you meet more and more resistance the farther you go. I'll try it.

On the bag it doesn't say if it is open or closed cell, which would have helped me immensely at the store. o well.
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Shadow_Dragonz
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1267. PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2003 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Little Firefly wrote:
yeah i did get it at lowe's. it is weather stripping, i plaed with it for a while, and i think it bounces back very fast, so i should be ok. i only wonder if it will be strong enough to support the weight of the plexi. it is about 3/16" higher than i need, so it will always be slightly compressed which will help, as when you press it, you meet more and more resistance the farther you go. I'll try it.

On the bag it doesn't say if it is open or closed cell, which would have helped me immensely at the store. o well.


I hope that it works for you. Best of luck E13.gif

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Frosty555
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1268. PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2003 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tolookah:

For the diodes, I think I was thinking of an epoxy rectifier. I personally have not used zener diodes before, but I do know they wouldn't work in place of a normal diode. I think what you are saying WOULD work.

The way my resistors did it, was the resistors provided a voltage-divider effect, and 20kohms verses whatever the resistance of the pad is (it's not all that much), meant in the event of a spike most of the resistance would go across the resistor instead of the controller. You're idea's prolly more the "correct" solution then just a working solution.

Anyways, circuit diagram coming up in like 5 minutes ppl! watch this spot!
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Frosty555
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1269. PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2003 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, here it is:

http://www.never-lock.com/Frosty555/ddrcircuitdiagram.jpg

Now, remember, I've only tested this with LEDs, preferably the 3 volt superbright LEDs. When i tried it on my second DDR pad with incandescent light bulbs it was like ALL the pads went down when i pushed one down, due to the way the circuit was working. I'll need to put diodes in with the lights as well then (requiring 7 diodes instead of just 2), but I haven't tested that before.

Anyways, maybe you can give me a hand finishing this circuit Tokoolah?
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Shadow_Dragonz
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1270. PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2003 3:58 pm    Post subject: An unanswered question... Reply with quote

Hi,

I guess that 16 guage wire is okay for the circuit from the controller E19.gif ....maybe later on I'll have something more useful to say biggrin.gif . Well, if someone could let me know if that's okay. The sooner the better so I can return the wire if I need to.

Thanks E1.gif

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Little Firefly
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1271. PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2003 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was wondering what shape do you have to cut the lexan? On paster's(?) Site it says octagonal, on ddrhomepads, it implies square.I want to do a more ddrhomepad thing with the triangles of foam core in the corners, So then how would i cut it so that the lexan is ontop of the foam, would i have to make holes for the screws to go through a square peice of lexan :???:

EDIT: thought of another question. I have my base built, but i don't have brackets yet. can i attach my sold panels to the bottom without having the brackets? or should i just wait to pt it all together until i have all my materials?
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ultrasound
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1272. PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2003 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok i got a problem i dont get how or what these springs are that press the acrillic back up can anyone explain E19.gif
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tolookah
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1273. PostPosted: Mon Dec 01, 2003 9:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well frosty... you are playing one hell of a dangerous game... either you're actually very smart, or just lucky... though i do have a few suggestions to help out your circuit (and a few things for others to take note of if they use your design):

1) your 3 volt diode works the best because normally, the voltage across the controller buttons is normally 3.3 volts, so i would actually work towards that number

2) as for the incandescent lights, are you using a higher voltage by chance? the higher voltage may be throwing things off... which could really mess up the controller/playstation eventually, so be carefull...

and a question for you now, are you using a wall supply or batteries for the power? (or even a different one for each set)... its a very interesting idea you have there, and i now wanna play with it... all the things i just said were at first glance (only about 30 minutes of looking at it a little puzzled, then redrawing it without the common points) ... so i'm probably going to have another post/edit this post later when i look at this some more...
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Frosty555
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1274. PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2003 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tolookah,

I did do a substantial amount of testing before I put the circuit into the pad. My tests were dealing with incandescent lights, but only one of them. I did not test it with several switches and several lights. The way I tested it was I had two bulbs, and two power sources (each of two differing voltages, say 1v and 7v), with my setup, one light should have been bright, the other dim, but when it was not working, both bulbs would be of the same brightness. The higher voltage isn't affecting anything, because the diodes are keeping both power sources completely independent of each other. Neither knows the other exists.

I attempted to wire the entire pad with only 2 diodes. Me having used all my diodes on my PS2 adapter, i didn't have many left. The problem is that the circuit WILL work with only 2 diodes, but only for one panel. For every other pad you need a diode in place in series with the positive end of the light's power source (i think, i don't quite remember) as well or your current will flow in the wrong direction and light all of the pads. That diode I stumbled on accidentally by using an LED (light emitting diode).

I am using an variable-voltage adapter from a wall supply, and only one of them for all the pads. The adapter has a switch that lets me choose the voltage, and on my previous pad, anything from 1v to 12v works just fine (although 12v destroys the diodes riiight.gif).
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MarKoPoLo
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1275. PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2003 1:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

halo people again. i got one question involving my pad design. i was thinking about making it 122 cm x 122 cm thus making the buttons be
40 cm x 40 cm so what i want to know is weither or not this is to big/small.

so can anyone let me know if its to big or to small? i taped it out and it seemed alright....but then im no expert and you cant really test it so anyways let me know what you guys think.
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Shadow_Dragonz
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1276. PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2003 3:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MarKoPoLo wrote:
halo people again. i got one question involving my pad design. i was thinking about making it 122 cm x 122 cm thus making the buttons be
40 cm x 40 cm so what i want to know is weither or not this is to big/small.

so can anyone let me know if its to big or to small? i taped it out and it seemed alright....but then im no expert and you cant really test it so anyways let me know what you guys think.


Hi,

Well, I'll start off that I live in America so I do not know the metric system E2.gif . So, I went to a convertor, and if it was correct, 11 inches is roughly 28 centimeters. So, instead of 33 inches by 33 inches, it would be approx. 84 cm by 84 cm. That's 28cm per panel.

So, to the answer to your question, I believe that it is too big frown.gif . Also, wouldn't it be 40 2/3 cm per panel if it were 122 cm in total length? E15.gif

By the way, I'm .06 cm off from 28 cm if you want to be 100% accurate.

Hope that helps.

Shadow_Dragonz E4.gif
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draggoon01
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1277. PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2003 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.digitaltorque.com/mydancepad/

any place with the videos for download? the ones on that page are all down
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MarKoPoLo
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1278. PostPosted: Wed Dec 03, 2003 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

alright thanks for the information. figured it may have been to big.....ah well.... thanks again for the help.
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Shadow_Dragonz
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1279. PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2003 3:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

draggoon01 wrote:
http://www.digitaltorque.com/mydancepad/

any place with the videos for download? the ones on that page are all down


You should ckeck back later on that day, and other days too. It could be that they have reached their max banwith for the day and can no longer allow downloading.

I do not know of any other places that host the video files. I have them, but I only have 56k modem working disgust.gif . A side note, you should have the latest DivX driver so you can view those videos.

Shadow_Dragonz E13.gif
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