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fr0zenxer0 Trick Member
Joined: 18 Oct 2003
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1120. Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 10:12 am Post subject: |
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I have a question. My CG metal pad circuit BOARD is TOTALLY screwed up. When i do song selection it scrolls my left arrow non stop. However in the difficulty selection the left arrow doesnt respond at all. So i decided to CHANGE the damaged circuit board. I'm rewiring the whole CG metal pad. To get things straight. Do i UNSOLDER the wires that are currently connected to the DAMAGED circuit board and unscrew and take out the circuit board from a ps2 controller and solder the corresponding arrow wires to the PS2 Controller circuit board? IF ANYONE has EVER done something like this please help me out. Do any ps2 controllers work? Would a psx controller work? I have 3 official psx controllers. Iv'e given up trying to save the damn CG pad. I figure rewiring is the best i can do. Please reply ASAP i just got extreme and i havent even PLAYED it on PADS yet. THANKS _________________
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TheKornKid Trick Member
Joined: 11 Aug 2002 Location: Toledo, OH |
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Patster Trick Member
Joined: 03 Mar 2002 Location: Mount Prospect, Illinois |
1122. Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 10:05 pm Post subject: Relays |
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I've been using different and cheaper relays in other projects and you can too. I've ordered solid state relays from digikey.com. I'll find the ones that I've ordered before and I'll post the part number. Stay tuned... |
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ddrpablo Trick Member
Joined: 09 Mar 2002 Location: Corpus Christi, TX |
1123. Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 10:11 pm Post subject: |
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patster, did ur site die? |
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Patster Trick Member
Joined: 03 Mar 2002 Location: Mount Prospect, Illinois |
1124. Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 10:36 pm Post subject: |
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I don't think so. I think comcast.net is having problems tonight.
Edit: Go to digikey.com and type in S101S06V in the "Parts Search" field, or try S101S05V. The S101S05V is cheaper but it does not have "Zero-Cross" circuitry. I prefer relays with Zero-cross circuitry because it will generally be "gentler" on the lightbulbs and help them to last longer.
The main difference between these relays and the Crouzet relays that I used to use is the input current (low voltage side) of the relay. Where the Crouzet relay required 3 to 32VDC, the Sharp requires only 1.2VDC at 50mA. I haven't measured the power supplied by the PS1 controller yet, but I would guess that it has enough power to connect directly to the relay input side. This would eliminate the extra power adapter in my old design. So, the 4 relays would be connected to each of the 4 button leads directly, no power adapter required.
Be sure that you do a good job when you solder the wires on the 120V side. You do not want those wires to break loose. I usually insulate each wire with some extra electrical tape. Another warning: Do not use solid copper wire. It is not very flexible and will eventually break. Instead, use copper stranded wire.
Sorry if I don't have much time to go into detail, it's already 1am and I gotta get up for work in about 4.5 hours. PM me if you or anyone has questions.
Last edited by Patster on Wed Oct 22, 2003 8:34 pm, edited 1 time in total |
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KickTheCan Trick Member
Joined: 11 Aug 2003 Location: Surfside Beach, SC |
1125. Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 12:03 pm Post subject: |
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Hey patster i made a pad modeled after yours and i had 2 questions. What kind of contacts did you use, in the pictures i noticed u said OLD microswitch design, so i assume you changed. Also if you do mending bracket contacts do you really need washers and if so what kind. _________________
"I am Jack's smirking revenge."
"I am Jack's cold sweat"
"I am Jack's raging bile duct"
"I am Jack's broken heart"
"I am Jack's complete lack of surprise" |
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Patster Trick Member
Joined: 03 Mar 2002 Location: Mount Prospect, Illinois |
1126. Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 3:59 pm Post subject: Web |
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KickTheCan wrote: | Hey patster i made a pad modeled after yours and i had 2 questions. What kind of contacts did you use, in the pictures i noticed u said OLD microswitch design, so i assume you changed. Also if you do mending bracket contacts do you really need washers and if so what kind. |
As for contacts, a long time ago in a galaxy far, far away, I came up with the solution to use small pieces of sheet metal fixed to the acrylic squares with double sided tape, and screws screwed into the base. Adjustment is very easy - just screw the screw up or down. Many people have developed their own ways of making a switch, but this is the way that I recommend doing it. Since I haven't been keeping up with this thread until recently, I really don't have much of a clue as to how this mending bracket contacts idea works. I know what mending brackets are, but what is used for the other contact? Sheet metal? And what do you need washers for? Adjusting?
Microswitches are not a good idea. Been there, done that. They lasted all of 2 days before they started to break. It is really hard to adjust the height of the microswitches without exceeding the travel limitations of the relay. The mechanical relays I used were free, so I didn't waste any money on those, but they were really good relays from OMRON. Go solid state - no moving parts inside the relay.
In my reply to TheKornKid, I suggested trying an SSR made by SHARP, part number S101S06V. I took apart my SONY controller to measure the voltage between the button contacts and found that the controller is supplying about 3.5V. In order to limit the the current through the suggested SSR (to prevent the PS from burning up the SSR), you would need to put a "current limiting resistor" in series with the low voltage input side of the SSR. This will keep the operating current within the 20 to 50mA operating range of the SSR.
[In reference to the Patster Lighting Design]
On a positive note, by using this SSR, you would only need one set of contacts instead of separate button contacts and separate lighting contacts. Also, you will no longer need the power adapter. This means that when you step on an arrow, the lights will always turn on in sync with the arrow panel press.
NOTE: This setup has not yet been tested. But I do not see any reason why it will not work! TheKornKid will be the first to try this design, so good luck to him. The results should be awesome!
Last edited by Patster on Wed Oct 22, 2003 8:35 pm, edited 1 time in total |
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Little Firefly Trick Member
Joined: 08 Jun 2003 Location: Heading away from the white light... |
1127. Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 5:03 pm Post subject: |
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Patster-
My dad (who is helping me with this whole project) was looking at the pics on your site, and they made him rather twitchy about the whole idea of building it. I understand your screw contact idea, (this is not in technical terms at all) you attach one wire to the screw and the other to the sheet metal, but i am a bit confused as to how (and on which side) you attach the wire to the sheet metal, do you soder it on?
(I will be PMing this to you as well since you said you haven't been checking the thread)
And uh, just a random question of the moment, how heavy are these pads exactly, and is there anyway to make them lighter? I MUST be able to move mine, or my mother will kill me, then i can't play ddr anymore and i would be very very sad. _________________
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Little Firefly Trick Member
Joined: 08 Jun 2003 Location: Heading away from the white light... |
1128. Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 5:07 pm Post subject: |
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OK one more question, does that weather stripping foam need to be replaced often, and how long does it last before getiing less springy, cause i was playing with some the other day and it didn't seem that durable. _________________
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thetaller1 Trick Member
Joined: 26 Jun 2003 Location: Ur Momma |
1129. Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 5:10 pm Post subject: |
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well you should be able to lift them by yourself or with a friend. Why would people make a pad that you can't move? Worst come worst just lift it onto a scroller and then roll it. _________________
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fr0zenxer0 Trick Member
Joined: 18 Oct 2003
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1130. Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 5:37 pm Post subject: |
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hmm would if i were to use a ps1 controller as the controller for my ddr pad would it work on ddr extreme for ps2? Because a ps1 controller cant be used to play ps2 games. Is it different when turned into a pad? _________________
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Mikeweiser Trick Member
Joined: 15 Feb 2003 Location: Saginaw, MI |
1131. Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 7:21 pm Post subject: |
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fr0zenxer0 wrote: | Because a ps1 controller cant be used to play ps2 games. |
lol umm, No. Controllers are compatible. |
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Patster Trick Member
Joined: 03 Mar 2002 Location: Mount Prospect, Illinois |
1132. Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 7:40 pm Post subject: |
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Little Firefly wrote: | Patster-
My dad (who is helping me with this whole project) was looking at the pics on your site, and they made him rather twitchy about the whole idea of building it. I understand your screw contact idea, (this is not in technical terms at all) you attach one wire to the screw and the other to the sheet metal, but i am a bit confused as to how (and on which side) you attach the wire to the sheet metal, do you soder it on?
(I will be PMing this to you as well since you said you haven't been checking the thread)
And uh, just a random question of the moment, how heavy are these pads exactly, and is there anyway to make them lighter? I MUST be able to move mine, or my mother will kill me, then i can't play ddr anymore and i would be very very sad. |
The screw is not attached to the wire at all. It is held in the screw hole by the screw. Just don't keep taking the screw out and moving the wire, because the screw threads will eventually cut through the wire. The wires weren't meant to be moved around anyway, so everything should hold up ok.
The other wire is soldered to the sheet metal. It takes about a minute for the sheet metal to heat up enough to have solder stick to it, just be patient. Also, use a higher wattage soldering gun if possible. (At least 30Watts if you have one.)
My pad is heavy because I wanted to attach a bar to the back. The whole enchilada weighs around 80lbs. or so. I can slide it around on my carpet or drag it around by using the bar.
The weatherstripping I used is a thick marine-type sold at Home Depot. It's pretty durable and won't turn all squishy like that open-cell soft weatherstripping.
As for PS1 controllers, I thought that they ARE compatible with PS2. The only thing that would be different is with games that utilize the analog controls and have vibration functions on the PS2. All other buttons should be the same, right? Anyways, my sister played DDRMAX using a PS2 and my platform with no problems. The controller I used was an old cheapie GameStop controller for PS1.
My website is back in order.
Last edited by Patster on Wed Oct 22, 2003 8:36 pm, edited 1 time in total |
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fr0zenxer0 Trick Member
Joined: 18 Oct 2003
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1133. Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 7:53 pm Post subject: |
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Can someone tell me what does the "ground" thing on a controller do? I'm trying to wire my ddr pad but i keep hearing about this "ground". So far all i know is that i have to connect a wire between the circuit board (contacts i believe) and the corresponding arrow/sensor. What do i connect to the "ground" contact? _________________
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ddrpablo Trick Member
Joined: 09 Mar 2002 Location: Corpus Christi, TX |
1134. Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2003 1:43 am Post subject: |
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well see, the ground is connected to each arrow panel. when each arrow wire touches the ground, it connects and the arrow is pushed. thats why theres 2 peices on each arrow. one is ground, the other is the arrow wire. when they both connect, it forms the connection ya know |
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fr0zenxer0 Trick Member
Joined: 18 Oct 2003
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1135. Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2003 5:12 am Post subject: |
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OK so i would have to connect a split wire from the arrow panel then to the corresponding arrow and the ground button? (if this is confusing ill give u a example i.e. i have a red and yellow wire, So i connect the red and yellow on one end, to the panel and the red to the ground and yellow to the corresponding arrow contact? I never really opened up and saw hoow a ddr softapad cricuit board looks lke. So sorry if i mess up _________________
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fr0zenxer0 Trick Member
Joined: 18 Oct 2003
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1136. Posted: Wed Oct 22, 2003 5:16 am Post subject: |
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OK so i would have to connect a split wire from the arrow panel then to the corresponding arrow and the ground button? (if this is confusing ill give u a example i.e. i have a red and yellow wire, So i connect the red and yellow on one end, to the panel and the red to the ground and yellow to the corresponding arrow contact? I never really opened up and saw hoow a ddr softapad cricuit board looks lke. So sorry if i mess up _________________
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TheKornKid Trick Member
Joined: 11 Aug 2002 Location: Toledo, OH |
1137. Posted: Thu Oct 23, 2003 2:06 am Post subject: |
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Yeah this metal pad should be awesome, i haven't updated my site in a few days because i've been busy working on it, but i'll update soon. All i have to do is wrap the front side with sheet metal and bolt/screw it down, and then solder all the wires into the relays and put in a few buttons and resistors and whatnot, and it should work!
:random comment: I made my back bar using 2" steel pipe spraypainted a shiny blue, (yay for originality!) :/random comment:
Me and my friend tested our controller we soldered and every button works perfectly, (we just plugged it in and touched the ground to all the other buttons to see if it registered, then temporarily connected the controller to an arrow and touched the contact screws with sheet metal)...and every contact worked! so far so good, almost done.
i think my ddr pad weighs in around 80-100lbs! luckily i don't plan on moving it too much. But on the plus side this thing is NOT going to fall apart...EVER. |
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Tofu Basic Member
Joined: 23 Apr 2002
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1138. Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2003 1:30 pm Post subject: |
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I don't understand how to do the soldering and the wiring of the controller of the pad. I checked out most of the websites but didn't really find anything. Can anyone help me with this? _________________
Eat Tofu its good for you!!!! |
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Little Firefly Trick Member
Joined: 08 Jun 2003 Location: Heading away from the white light... |
1139. Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2003 1:54 pm Post subject: |
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I am planning to have my pad be 1" or less thick, so i really don't want a whole heck of a lot of room for contacts, I was wondering how much "give" each button on a ddr pad has, I know it isn't a whole lot.
I was thinking for the contacts, I could use a few layers of (sealed) paint to separate the contacts. Cause i want the sheet metal to be the outline of a square, I need 2 (one connected to the plexi glass and one on the bottom of my pad (possibly setting on 1/4" wood), then i'd paint stripes on it, seal the paint, and leave some of the metal bare to make the connection.
I thought paint would be a good idea because it is think, nonconductive, and lasts a REALLY long time if you do it right, whatd'ya think?
I've also encountered another problem. My pad design doesn't have any brackets, none, so i need to find something to hold down the plexiglass in it's squares. so i might wind up having to get brackets (expensive little buggers) anyway. I was wondering if anyone could come up with a cheeper solution. _________________
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