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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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riptide
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980. PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2003 2:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like you've really customized the design. I hear ya about the extra weather stripping. I didn't really have any trouble with ghost steps, but I did want my panels a little tighter so they don't move as much when I play, so I stacked another layer of weatherstripping ontop of what I had. It added more of a restoring force to the steps which makes it much easier to hit the quick steps required on many heavy songs. So, if you're looking to tighten up the panels and get a more arcade like feel, add a bit more weatherstripping to the top of what's there and maybe lift the mending brackets or screws a bit for less movement.
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My pad design: http://www.wubros.com/ddrpad/
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Snof
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981. PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2003 9:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Instead of weather stripping I used strips of an old mouse pad. I like the feel much better than weather stripping. The main issue is that the arrows barely go down at all, so the contacts have to be exactly the right height to work. It's also quieter since the arrows aren't hitting the contacts as hard. I decided on mouse pad since the weather stripping I had was getting a bit compressed after using it some, the mouse pad returns to it's original thickness very well.
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riptide
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982. PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2003 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

snof, which pad design did you use? With double weatherstrip in mine and the mending brackets at the right height, the movement on my arrow panels is barely any. The play is very similar to arcade feel as well except that the sensitivity is much greater... way easier to hold freeze arrows E13.gif
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My pad design: http://www.wubros.com/ddrpad/
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GumshoeSleuth
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983. PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2003 6:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey riptide sorry for draggin this out so much but you think you could take a picture of your pad with the mending brackets or a picture or anything? ( Im sort of confused as to how it works but it sounds like a better alternative to screws )

Thanks.
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Snof
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984. PostPosted: Thu Aug 28, 2003 9:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

riptide wrote:
snof, which pad design did you use? With double weatherstrip in mine and the mending brackets at the right height, the movement on my arrow panels is barely any. The play is very similar to arcade feel as well except that the sensitivity is much greater... way easier to hold freeze arrows E13.gif


I basically used your design with a few minor modifications. Mine feels like the arcade. It's extremely sensitive (after a lot of tweaking). Freeze arrows work perfectly, better than at the arcade near me (though the arcade near me has a somewhat messed up pad E2.gif).

I haven't put the corner brackets on yet since I haven't finished designing my arrow graphics, but I don't expect them to change the feel at all.


By the way riptide, how's the lighting going? I've been planning on adding lights to mine. I'm planning on using ultrabright LEDs, but I'm not sure how easy it'll be to get one to light the whole arrow. I haven't gotten the LEDs yet since I'm extremely short of cash at the moment.
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KrakenGuy
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985. PostPosted: Fri Aug 29, 2003 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, first off I screwed over my metal pad again, friend another controller. Congrats to me. 2nd off, I am starting another metal pad next weekend. This time I am using 25 Guage sheet metal for the solid panels and am using 20 guage sheet metal for the contacts. Than, instead of wooden corner bracket inserts, I am gonna use plastic inserts, why? Because they won't crack or split that easyily. And instead of Plexiglass, LEXAN! I can get all the lexan I need for $60, score. Well, thats all. Good Night.
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BrokenSpaceBar
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986. PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2003 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was just wondering... I'm using DDRHP's design and I want to print out the arrow graphics on my printer. What kind of paper should I use?
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wesdives
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987. PostPosted: Sat Aug 30, 2003 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

perhaps someone here can help me. I've followed the soldering instructions for the controller exactly, yet every time I do it I end up with a pad that works for an hour and a half and then quits for no apparent reason. Nothing on the pad appears to have shorted and every connection is fit, and I am 100% sure that the pad itself is working properly.
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lightbulbkid
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988. PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2003 5:17 pm    Post subject: Homepad on XBOX Reply with quote

I was planning to make my own pad for the XBOX release of DDR. If i followed the instructions on ddrhomepad's site and got a Magic Box or some other converter would the pad work on the XBOX? Another question is the XBOX going to have the same layout as the PS2 version and what is X,Y,A,B going to represent. Some input would really help me out becasue I woul dlike to know before the building process. Thanx
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GumshoeSleuth
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989. PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2003 6:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So Iv been working all day.

We have the base made and pretty much everything done but the contacts and the wiring. Theres not much room between the glass and the wood so were probly going to have barely any extra room , you know what that means? we cant use double sided tape most likely frust.gif . Wooooo noisy panels hopefully wont be too bad though.

If I get it finished tomorrow Ill update.
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Istari Asuka
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990. PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2003 8:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

riptide wrote:

I also used mounting tape instead of spray adhesive to connect the sheet metal to the acrylic which worked very well and does reduce the sound of a step a whole lot.


Hey, Riptide, what brand/type of tape did you use? Would double-sided carpet tape work? Also, why would it reduce the noise? Becaue it provides a slight compression/dispersion barriar between screw and plexi?

Thanks in advance. E1.gif
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Istari Asuka
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991. PostPosted: Sun Aug 31, 2003 8:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Double Post...
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revolutionZERO
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992. PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2003 3:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can someone summarize the advantages of both DDRHP's, Riptide's, and maybe Patster's? I don't have the time to search the thread even though the answer is probably right on some page, errr, whatever. Don't yell at me about it, just please don't say anything if you don't wanna summarize.

::EDIT:: One more question. On any of the designs, how do you get the wires that run from each arrow to go through the whole pad and to the controller circuit board? Are there holes cut for the wires? Please clarify.
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shuiend
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993. PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2003 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK i have finally decided to make a meta pad. I am planning on following riptides design mostly. I do have a few questions though. Do the arows just get placed in the holders? With how they look cut it seems that u just place tem down and dont really secure them in. Also i am still confused on the whole wiring for the project. Could someone please explain how the wireing is done and maybe provide some pictures?
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Collector
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994. PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2003 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, so I haven't checked this thread since page 2 or so back in the day since I talk to riptide on MSN mostly. I asked him a few questions 2 days ago (forgot what they were) but his answers were like this:

1. Don't use screws, use (Forgot what he said).
2. Use washers (Say what?)
3. Something (forget that too)

So what in the world is he talking about?
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Snof
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995. PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2003 10:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Collector wrote:
OK, so I haven't checked this thread since page 2 or so back in the day since I talk to riptide on MSN mostly. I asked him a few questions 2 days ago (forgot what they were) but his answers were like this:

1. Don't use screws, use (Forgot what he said).
2. Use washers (Say what?)
3. Something (forget that too)

So what in the world is he talking about?


For the first two items check the previous page of this thread for stuff about mending brackets for the contacts. For #3... umm.... yeah.....
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Blue Beefman
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996. PostPosted: Wed Sep 03, 2003 5:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok I am getting angry, I would be done with the pad I put the new contacts in, but they didnt work, so I tried my corner brace thing, but the pad wasnt set up for those, so I went to the screw/washer idea, and I cant get it right, all the holes keep stripping...Im getting angry

help, anyone, any advice
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GumshoeSleuth
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997. PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2003 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I finally got my pad finished! biggrin.gif but only got to use it for an hour before we had a problem frust.gif .

The problem was , I bought elmers spray adhesive ( the cheapest kind i found ) , after about an hour i noticed i lost alot of sensitivity. I unscrewed an arrow panel , turned it over , and the contacts had slid around! The glue wasnt strong enough obviously. So then we tried super glue. Didnt stick. Then we tried epoxy. Didnt stick. So today im going to get some expensive spray adhesive and were tryin that.

( note : we tried tape first but the tape we had was thick and we didnt have enough room between the screws and the glass to use it , we got .25 plexiglass instead of 22. )

But it worked great for an hour , felt like the arcade biggrin.gif .

Should have it working by tomorrow , if the new spray works.
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Collector
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998. PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2003 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what do these "mending brackets" look like? I'd also like to see a pic of em used on someones ddr pad so I can get an idea of where to put them on my pad.
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KrakenGuy
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999. PostPosted: Thu Sep 04, 2003 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Elmers Spray Adhesive not strong? Wow, you must've got a dud bottle, how long did you let it sit? I use this undustrial strength spray adhesive, my dads work place uses it somtimes, it smells like propane but it gets the job done. Last time I used Elmers I had to struggle to pull the sheet metal off. Try spraying the spray adhesive onto the plexiglass and letting it sit than spray some on the sheet metal than paste it onto the plexiglass, that should work.
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