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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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ddrgeek
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Joined: 16 Aug 2003
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940. PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2003 10:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for the the info. now i was wondering if anyone had step by step instructions for the pad that Pratster built. If anyone does, please email it to me at [email protected] cuz i am having trouble with building it
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ddrgeek
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941. PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2003 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

im not sure if this went thru the first time, but does anyone have instructions for building Pratster's Pad cuz im having trouble trying to build it. If you do, please send me a copy to my email at [email protected]
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GumshoeSleuth
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942. PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2003 10:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Did anyone see my questions? * waits anxiously * * paces *
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ddrgeek
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943. PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2003 10:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

does anyone have instructions for building Pratster's Pad, if you do, please email me a copy at [email protected], i would greatly appreciate it
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ddrgeek
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944. PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2003 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

whoops! lol, i sent that 3 times laugh.gif
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riptide
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945. PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2003 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andreq wrote:
riptide wrote:
I don't think you completely conveyed what I was thinking. I don't want to put the machine screws through the wood. I want to put a support into the wood using wood screws and that support would either receive the machine screws itself or you could use a nut with the support to bind the corner brace to the support.

So the support has two functions... one is to replace the wood block, and two is to serve as a transition from the wood to metal to allow machine screws to be used.... I just need to find something like that.


I thought that you could use 2 corner brace like... 1 upside down drilled into the wood and the other drilled on the side of the other corner brace (bind them a bit to fit 1 into the other) so you could use squarre peice of plexiglass. I didnt try it but i just tought about it. And I realized that if you drill the other on the side you got screw that will block teh plexi... but with a "rivet" you could do something i think ... it could hold them togeter without blocking plexiglass[/url]


Hmm... interesting idea, but there's a problem....

In order to get that bracket assembly installed, you would have to put the bottom brackets down first with the solid panels as a guide on where to put them. Then you'd have to take the solid panels off of the pad in order to rivet the top pieces down to give you room. Then you're stuck with four brackets on the pad and no way to put the plexi in. If you did find a way to get them all on, then how would you open it for maintenance?
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My pad design: http://www.wubros.com/ddrpad/
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Andreq
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946. PostPosted: Sun Aug 17, 2003 1:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

riptide wrote:
Andreq wrote:
riptide wrote:
I don't think you completely conveyed what I was thinking. I don't want to put the machine screws through the wood. I want to put a support into the wood using wood screws and that support would either receive the machine screws itself or you could use a nut with the support to bind the corner brace to the support.

So the support has two functions... one is to replace the wood block, and two is to serve as a transition from the wood to metal to allow machine screws to be used.... I just need to find something like that.


I thought that you could use 2 corner brace like... 1 upside down drilled into the wood and the other drilled on the side of the other corner brace (bind them a bit to fit 1 into the other) so you could use squarre peice of plexiglass. I didnt try it but i just tought about it. And I realized that if you drill the other on the side you got screw that will block teh plexi... but with a "rivet" you could do something i think ... it could hold them togeter without blocking plexiglass[/url]


Hmm... interesting idea, but there's a problem....

In order to get that bracket assembly installed, you would have to put the bottom brackets down first with the solid panels as a guide on where to put them. Then you'd have to take the solid panels off of the pad in order to rivet the top pieces down to give you room. Then you're stuck with four brackets on the pad and no way to put the plexi in. If you did find a way to get them all on, then how would you open it for maintenance?


this is the big prob with rivet E10.gif but i didnt find any kind of screw that could do the job... it was just a idea
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cool
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947. PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2003 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I read about a screw/solder mod for DDRhomepad's design in Shadow_dragon's FAQ, in which you either hammer a screw through the bottom of the metal or drip some solder between the two contacts.

Has anyone actually tried this and if so, how much does sensitivity improved? I am interested since the sensitivity of my year-old metal pad could use some tweaking.
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Blue Beefman
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948. PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2003 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hm well the FAQ, is...well itrs been put off, I started working and cant be online all the time, so maybe some time in the future...BUT I am working on a new Design using...

http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=search&item=TST-21&type=store

Thanks to Scott W. for that link.

But yeah they are looking like it will be MUCH easier!

When Im done ill post pics and info about how easy they are to use, and how well they work.
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GumshoeSleuth
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949. PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2003 6:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

( add this to my previous questions )

Which pad is most sensitive / Who has built the ddrhomepad design and what are your oppinions? Im leanin towards that one but want some oppinions.
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GumshoeSleuth
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950. PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2003 7:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its come down to ddrhomepad or riptide's design.........
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Goliath01364
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951. PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2003 5:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok I really need a quick answer on this (Im bring my pad to a tourney (LZ5) so...) Recently my controler fried, the left arrow wouldnt stop pressing, or so I thought. I removed the old controler and installed a new controler and immediatly had the same problem, So i removed the arrow panel and after some very careful examiantion I found a cross between the two wires. Feeling pretty dumb for not checking this before I wrapped the crossed wires in electrical tape and closed the pad back up. I played Kind Lady on heavy and got a AA the next song the whole pad died about half way through no response from ANY buttons including my xo[]and /\. However when I unplug and replug in the controler it works good again until I start playing a song on heavy or standard. Light mode seems to work fine(im guessing its because of the amount of times the arrows are hit) . Now I think Ive found the the source of this problem is yet again the left arrow. I want to hear what you guys think before i tear the entire left arrow out and re-wire it.
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riptide
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952. PostPosted: Tue Aug 19, 2003 11:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Goliath01364 wrote:
Ok I really need a quick answer on this (Im bring my pad to a tourney (LZ5) so...) Recently my controler fried, the left arrow wouldnt stop pressing, or so I thought. I removed the old controler and installed a new controler and immediatly had the same problem, So i removed the arrow panel and after some very careful examiantion I found a cross between the two wires. Feeling pretty dumb for not checking this before I wrapped the crossed wires in electrical tape and closed the pad back up. I played Kind Lady on heavy and got a AA the next song the whole pad died about half way through no response from ANY buttons including my xo[]and /\. However when I unplug and replug in the controler it works good again until I start playing a song on heavy or standard. Light mode seems to work fine(im guessing its because of the amount of times the arrows are hit) . Now I think Ive found the the source of this problem is yet again the left arrow. I want to hear what you guys think before i tear the entire left arrow out and re-wire it.


If no button was responding at all, then I don't think the problem is the left arrow. The unplug/replug trick usually works when the controller sucks. some controller boards just aren't meant to be wired up like we do, so they fail... sometimes permanently, and sometimes just until it's replugged. I suggest either putting the original controller back in(if it still works) or getting another controller. I've recently had great success with the Naki Flower Power controller(yea, sounds ghey, but I didn't buy it .... no really, I didn't =) ) and the board from an intec soft pad. I have a feeling that boards from soft pads will have a much better success rate since they're already designed to take the beating that they do... the electronics will be less intricate and able to handle more abuse.... plus the contacts are HUGE and easy to solder to =).
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My pad design: http://www.wubros.com/ddrpad/
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cool
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953. PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2003 12:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote



LMAO flower power.




Sorry couldn't resist. E4.gif
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riptide
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954. PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2003 12:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOL that's the one... same color and everything E13.gif
Put one of those in your pad, and then wait till someone asks...

What's in your DDR pad? E13.gif
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Goliath01364
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955. PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2003 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey thanks for the advice I will try putting the original controler back in. The funny thing is both of the controlers were Sony PS controlers, yet the boards looked quite different. If it still dosent work ill try and hunt down one of those purple controlers...............It will have to be painted..........
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GumshoeSleuth
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956. PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2003 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riptide pretty much answered this but I thought id still ask in more detail biggrin.gif

I plan on building a riptide pad starting very soon and was wondering if I could use the board from my RO Ignition 1.0 that doesnt really work anymore ( arrows stick like crazy ). The reason they stick doesnt have to do with the board does it? I thought it would work better than a controler....and this way i could save afew bucks E1.gif

Thanks.
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GumshoeSleuth
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957. PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2003 10:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Riptide pretty much answered this but I thought id still ask in more detail biggrin.gif

I plan on building a riptide pad starting very soon and was wondering if I could use the board from my RO Ignition 1.0 that doesnt really work anymore ( arrows stick like crazy ). The reason they stick doesnt have to do with the board does it? I thought it would work better than a controler....and this way i could save afew bucks E1.gif

Thanks.
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riptide
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958. PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2003 11:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yea, you should be able to use the board from your Ignition pad. The buttons sticking just has to do with the soft pad's foam getting compressed to the point that it doesn't expand back fast enough. It doesn't have anything to do with the board.

Edit: If you open it up and get the board out, it should be easy to determine which contacts are for which button... just rip the outside of the pad off, and you'll see traces on how the wires from the board go to each button's contact on the board. They'll be connected on a tab that has a sticky foam connecting it to the circuit board. Write down on paper which contact is connected to which button. Some soft pad boards have a black carbon material over the contacts that you should scrape off before you solder.

If you forget to mark which contacts are for what button, you can always use a wire to connect from ground to each contact while it's plugged into the playstation to determine what they do.
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riptide (at) digitaltorque (dot) com

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My pad design: http://www.wubros.com/ddrpad/
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GumshoeSleuth
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959. PostPosted: Wed Aug 20, 2003 6:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

woooo awesome.

If I start this saturday and work a crapload sunday is there a possibility of fnishing? Or is this like a week long project.
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