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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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Soyokaze
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Joined: 06 Jun 2003
860. PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2003 4:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey
I was wondering if someone can tell me
(ive uploaded a picture) where the ground and the soldering points.
please
High Quality
http://www.geocities.com/healingkaze/hq.html
Low Quality
http://www.geocities.com/healingkaze/lq.html

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Weston
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861. PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2003 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DDRMomo wrote:
I finally have a problem with one of my pads, but only when I play it on the playstation, not when i play it on my computer ie stepmania, dwi. Now, when I plug the controller into the playstation, its like my pcb is possessed ( im using sony ps pcbs ). I dont even touch the pad and its starts registering every button at once. I managed to get passed the song menu without getting irritated and all the arrows register at once and keeps on going, and even at the menus it moves by itself. I thought it was the pcb so I replaced it with another one, and still the same problem. Im using beefmans contact design. If this helps any, with the arrow panel taken off, I touched one of the corner brackets with my finger( beefman contact design ) and it registered the button multiple times. Does anyone know what the problem could be? Any help would be greatly appreciated


It sounds like a problem with the controller. Sometimes static buildup ruins the curcuits in the controllers. I've had this problem multiple times.
If it keeps registering a button press repeatedly when you hold it down, you controller must think it's in turbo mode. A solution that worked for me when this happened is to unplug the controller and plug it back in during the game or to start up the game and then plug it in. The controller wil sort of recalibrate itself. Try this out first, and if you still ahve this problem, you may need to get a new controller.
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Momo -YHB-
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862. PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2003 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Soyokaze wrote:
Hey
I was wondering if someone can tell me
(ive uploaded a picture) where the ground and the soldering points.
please
High Quality
http://www.geocities.com/healingkaze/hq.html
Low Quality
http://www.geocities.com/healingkaze/lq.html

Email me if it suits you
[email protected]


From the looks of that PCB it looks like a usb gamepad pro controller board. I used one of these before and its not fun to use. But the solder points for that board , the circuits that are leading to that center black rectangular piece is the actual controller piece, the grounds are the ones that lead to the little rectangular pieces at the bottom of the pad
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Momo -YHB-
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863. PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2003 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Weston wrote:
DDRMomo wrote:
I finally have a problem with one of my pads, but only when I play it on the playstation, not when i play it on my computer ie stepmania, dwi. Now, when I plug the controller into the playstation, its like my pcb is possessed ( im using sony ps pcbs ). I dont even touch the pad and its starts registering every button at once. I managed to get passed the song menu without getting irritated and all the arrows register at once and keeps on going, and even at the menus it moves by itself. I thought it was the pcb so I replaced it with another one, and still the same problem. Im using beefmans contact design. If this helps any, with the arrow panel taken off, I touched one of the corner brackets with my finger( beefman contact design ) and it registered the button multiple times. Does anyone know what the problem could be? Any help would be greatly appreciated


It sounds like a problem with the controller. Sometimes static buildup ruins the curcuits in the controllers. I've had this problem multiple times.
If it keeps registering a button press repeatedly when you hold it down, you controller must think it's in turbo mode. A solution that worked for me when this happened is to unplug the controller and plug it back in during the game or to start up the game and then plug it in. The controller wil sort of recalibrate itself. Try this out first, and if you still ahve this problem, you may need to get a new controller.


But thats the thing, it registers on its own with out me touching it at all. It works on the pc fine but just not on the ps2.
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Weston
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864. PostPosted: Sun Jul 20, 2003 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You said that you touched the contact with your finger and it kept registering? Could be the way you have it wired, in which your body is acting like a ground wire. This is what I'm understanding from your description. Maybe not, but here are a few things I suggest:

1. Look at all the wires in your pad, sometimes wires get worn and the insulation comes off, then they touch something they're not supposed to. If you have lights in your pad, wires from the controller that touch wires from the lights will cause really bad effects. This may or may not affect the playstation controller and not the computer controller.

2. Look at the wiring in your controller. It's possible that there may be a solder bridge somewhere or there is too much presure that causes the control buttons to be pressed down.

3. Look at where your sheet metal touches. See if it's touching something that it's not supposed to.

4. Look at your contacts very carefully to see if they touch the other wires on the plastic panel. Like I said earlier, if the wires are worn they may be touching they're not supposed to. Pay attention to how the wires fit inside when the panels are in place.

This is all I can really think of, if your controller is working like it is manufactured to. All you can do now is check the wiring. If all of that fails, you may have to get a new controller.
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habersberger
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865. PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2003 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok id like to know how to put on metal bars behind my pad, and i know someone somewhere has already posted how probably, but i cannot find it. so would someone like either post the page or the whole thing or anything that can help? thanx E4.gif
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Momo -YHB-
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866. PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2003 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It doesn't seem to be the wiring.. oh well.. I'll just keep on trying
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Takuhii
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867. PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2003 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys, I'm building my own pad, and I'd like to know if anybody has a diagram of how the Naki soft pad's control box works. It would be great if I could use that because the pads in my diaper pad are fscked, so it wouldn't be a total waste. Plus it has lights! =D
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Frosty555
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868. PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2003 4:10 pm    Post subject: Lights wiring Reply with quote

For those of you who have not yet completed the wiring for the pad and plan on putting lights in, I think this diagram will prove VERY useful. It is a diagram showing what I consider to be the best way to solder the pad.

The lights and the pad both connect to one switch, instead of two (the conventional design used to setup lights, in particular, the design used in Patster's guide).

The image is available here:
http://www.evainfo.org/Host/Frosty555/ddrcircuitdiagram.jpg

This is the thread I made on in:
http://www.ddrfreak.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=69512
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Frosty555
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869. PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2003 4:12 pm    Post subject: Lights wiring Reply with quote

For those of you who have not yet completed the wiring for the pad and plan on putting lights in, I think this diagram will prove VERY useful. It is a diagram showing what I consider to be the best way to solder the pad.

The lights and the pad both connect to one switch, instead of two (the conventional design used to setup lights, in particular, the design used in Patster's guide).

The image is available here:
http://www.evainfo.org/Host/Frosty555/ddrcircuitdiagram.jpg

This is the thread I made on in:
http://www.ddrfreak.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=69512
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Frosty555
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870. PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2003 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ack! Double post! Sorry! riiight.gif
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SpaceMan
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871. PostPosted: Mon Jul 21, 2003 8:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, I have a question about the acrylic.. Would it be okay to cut it with a jigsaw that has 20 tpi? I've tried with 10 but it cracked. I want to get it PERFECT. Can anyone help me?
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ZotTower
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872. PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2003 4:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

TwitchingMan wrote:
Yeah, I have a question about the acrylic.. Would it be okay to cut it with a jigsaw that has 20 tpi? I've tried with 10 but it cracked. I want to get it PERFECT. Can anyone help me?


Your acrylic cracking at all is a very bad sign. You might have better luck with 20tpi, but your acrylic should not be cracking no matter what. Just means your acrylic is weak/cheap. What brand is it? You should definately go with something really strong like lexan. That way you wont be playing one day and suddenly have a whole arrow panel crack and cave in completely and cut your foot or ankle on the screws down there.
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Weston
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873. PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2003 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also, if you have thin plastic like in the ddrhomepad design and if the plastic is really stiff, it is prone to breaking. Lucite-TUF is an example.

If you still want to cut it with a blade like that, be sure to cut very slowly.
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Blue Beefman
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874. PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2003 3:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I need to light up a pad I ma selling, so what brightness of LED's is needed and where can I get them?
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Andreq
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875. PostPosted: Tue Jul 22, 2003 7:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Lights wiring Reply with quote

Frosty555 wrote:
For those of you who have not yet completed the wiring for the pad and plan on putting lights in, I think this diagram will prove VERY useful. It is a diagram showing what I consider to be the best way to solder the pad.

The lights and the pad both connect to one switch, instead of two (the conventional design used to setup lights, in particular, the design used in Patster's guide).

The image is available here:
http://www.evainfo.org/Host/Frosty555/ddrcircuitdiagram.jpg

This is the thread I made on in:
http://www.ddrfreak.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=69512

i wanted first say... yeah !! your quite nice.... but ...tryed ... and nothing... yeah it light... yeah the button trigger... but when there is no button press : some random button trigger until i press another button.... and no im not a dummy... i no the polarity and yep my ground was + (yep .. a soft pad :?... ) and yep i changed the diode to make it work...
wasnt working.. so i think i need to put.... 1 diode on each - (button).... i didnt try (got lots of spare diode.... i should try)

if it work for ya ... good for ya E10.gif

but for the bright ...my diode have a view angle of 1/X (hahaha kidding but...) and i got small bulb to light with 9V .. they are not really bright... i should use RELAY and christmas bulb (ovale long and slim one) + 120V.... this would be bright E10.gif
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Halo_addict
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876. PostPosted: Wed Jul 23, 2003 9:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Im building a pad myself but i have a couple of questions

1) is there an easier way to cut the sheet metal than the tin snips? its really bending up the edges and its a pain to wedge it in the middle of the sheet to finish cutting

2) im gonna use lightbulbs under the arrows to light up the pad. whats a relay for and how would i hook it up in the circuit? (a picture or diagram would be extremely helpful)

3) because im lighting with bulbs under the arrow, im gonna take strips of sheet metal and run them around the edge of the arrow leaving a square hole in the middle. (basically taking homepad's full botom sheet metal and cutting a square hole in the center of it.) do any of you forsee any problems with this?

4) WTF is up with lowes and their 2X4s? frust.gif they are all bowed in some way or cracked or have wierd pieces of bark on the edges in some places....took me forever to find a good piece. frust.gif (i dont need an answer to this, its really just a warning to check out the wood before u buy it)
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Weston
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877. PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2003 9:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Halo_addict wrote:
Im building a pad myself but i have a couple of questions

1) is there an easier way to cut the sheet metal than the tin snips? its really bending up the edges and its a pain to wedge it in the middle of the sheet to finish cutting

2) im gonna use lightbulbs under the arrows to light up the pad. whats a relay for and how would i hook it up in the circuit? (a picture or diagram would be extremely helpful)

3) because im lighting with bulbs under the arrow, im gonna take strips of sheet metal and run them around the edge of the arrow leaving a square hole in the middle. (basically taking homepad's full botom sheet metal and cutting a square hole in the center of it.) do any of you forsee any problems with this?

4) WTF is up with lowes and their 2X4s? frust.gif they are all bowed in some way or cracked or have wierd pieces of bark on the edges in some places....took me forever to find a good piece. frust.gif (i dont need an answer to this, its really just a warning to check out the wood before u buy it)


1) When cutting with the tin snips, make sure you don't cut by using the tip of it, because it will cause bending and uneven edges. Having the edges bent isn't really going to matter, since you bend them around the side of the wood later on.
If you're using a large piece of sheet metal, it is going to be difficult to cut. I recommend getting three 12"x24" sheets. You have to make just three cuts then.
The only better way I know of to cut the sheet is by using a large tool that most metal shops have. It's about the size of a small table, so you won't want to buy one.

2) A relay is a switch that works by closing a high voltage curcuit when low voltage travels through it.

Here's what it looks like: http://opto22.com/images/ssrelay.gif

When low voltage passes through one side of the relay (I forgot if it was prongs 1-2 or 3-4) like 9-volts, the other side closes the curcuit and allows high voltage, like 120-volt to pass through. It may sound redundant, but the reason for a relay is to have you close a low voltage curcuit instead of a high voltage curcuit when you step on the panel. Would you really want to have 120-volts to travel right under your feet? If anything goes wrong in the wiring, you could get a bad electric shock. Also, with a relay, the controller curcuit and light curcuit are safer when they are so close together.

3) You could do that, but you have to remember that your lighting curcuit and controller curcuit have to be seperated. So you would need two squares. It's better to have about 8 small squares (2 per side) of sheet metal per curcuit. Look at Patser's design to see what i mean.

4) Hmm... I got my wood at home Depot. They have various qualities of 2x4s. I got the prime stuff.
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atomikobra
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878. PostPosted: Thu Jul 24, 2003 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone know where you can buy pushbuttons for the X and TRIANGLE ground wires on the back of DDRHomepad's design? Any help would be appreciated extremely.
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Khor
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879. PostPosted: Fri Jul 25, 2003 12:30 pm    Post subject: arrow dimensions Reply with quote

ok, this is probably a stupid question, but how do i get the arrows to be 11" by 11", printer paper isnt big enough for me to just print them. Thanks.
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