Modding an Naki DPR2...

zephyr28 · Trick Member Joined: 17 Jun 2003 Location: Falmouth, Maine

Mods: Please forgive me. I was going to post this in the Soft pad sticky, but I thought no one would check it out if I did. If I'm pushing it, just say so, and I'll move my post. Thanks!

Readers: Okay, so I got a DPR2 pad with the non-slip surface under it. I have a couple questions before modding it.

One: Is the non-slip bottom seperate from the rest of the pad? Example:

On the normal pads it's like this:

-------------- Arrow graphics plastic
-------------- + Button contacts
-------------- Foam of come sort
-------------- - Ground
-------------- Back plastic

Is the DPR2 pad like this?

-------------- Arrow graphics plastic
-------------- + Button contacts
-------------- Foam of come sort
-------------- - Ground
-------------- Back plastic
-------------- Non-slip foam.

Two: It seems to be very bunched up (my first day of owning it) is there and easy way to fix it? Will the modding resolve this problem?

This is what I want to do:

I want to take off the non-slip, do a TommyGun mod, then use some sort of adhesive, and put the non-slip back on the wood.

-------------- Floor covering
-------------- Pad
-------------- Plywood
-------------- Nonslip surface

thanks!

Mods: Sorry about the multiple edits. I made many mistakes...

_________________

"Heavy mode..." -DDR Max 2 Announcer

In the Southern Maine area? Good!
http://www.jaycote.com

zephyr28 · Trick Member Joined: 17 Jun 2003 Location: Falmouth, Maine

Well, I got no reply and I was restless so I decided to go ahead. Seriously, this mod is soooooooo nice I feel like I should really write it up and set up a webpage for it.

This is what I did:

I flattened that pad between two peices of plywood one with five ten pound weights distrobuted all over it. I cut a piece of _______ (I can't remember the name of it right now, and my father's asleep. (He knows what it is.) It's about 1/8 inch thick, and is VERY heavy. It's not plywood but it's like made of "flakes" of paper. But very very very *gasp* very very strong.) a little bit larger than the pad.

I then placed the pad on top, and put duct tape around the edges to hold it down. I then took the non-slip stuff you but under your rugs and cut it the size of the bottom and taped it on around the edges as well.

Outcome:

WOW! The non-slip stuff that was already under the pad feels like foam. But it's not "squishy." The buttons respond %100 of the time. I can't really tell you how long this lasts as I've only owned the mat (unmodded and modded) for 10 hours.

I've decided to write this up with pictures, I'll post it once it's done.

_________________

"Heavy mode..." -DDR Max 2 Announcer

In the Southern Maine area? Good!
http://www.jaycote.com

Dead-Meat · Trick Member Joined: 21 Feb 2003

(Edited by DDR Freak: Trolling posts removed)
_________________

i need somebody that plays ddr who is a "gurl" to poopy on my face plz

SwivelGuy2 · Trick Member Joined: 19 Dec 2002

I still use the first pad I ever owned, a DPR2. about 10 months old.

What I did:

With the pad upside-down, I cut around the edge of every layer, just inside the green border. I cut through:
The gray non-slip foam
the clear plastic buttons
the white foam with holes
the clear plastic ground sheet

So then I had the gray foam separated and the top plastic layer separated. I completely tore out the white foam with holes and threw that crap away. terrible stuff (this is the part that only lasts a couple months).

I took the extremely durable gray foam and cut holes in it where all the buttons are. The holes are about an inch square with a quarter inch separation between them. Then I cut out the entire center section of that and places a square of thick corrugated cardboard in its spot, taping it flush with the pad.

Then I placed each layer on a sheet of 3/4" particle board ($8 buys enough for 2 pads), stretched them taut, and taped around all the edges with duct tape. I put the layers on in this order:
- Clear plastic button layer
- Gray foam with cardboard center and holes cut
- Clear plastic ground layer
- White plastic arrows layer (with the green stripe still attached)

Note that I never separated the clear plastic layers from the blue control box. I left the green stripe on the top part so that I could feel when I was stepping on the outer edge of the pad.

It works perfectly. The first thing that will break is that cracks will form in the very top layer, but using some sort of pad cover will prevent this. I would have used something like the red octane pad cover (it's 1/8" of nearly-rigid plastic), but I was too cheap/lazy.

To keep the particle board from sliding, I used a big square of that stuff you put under carpets of on shelves to prevent sliding, and duct taped it around the edge. Staples and glue might also be a possibility here.

particle board is nice for this kind of thing because it's very heavy and perfectly flat, and will never warp. The whole thing is about the same weight as a cobalt flux, although about 2 inches wider and 4 inches longer.
_________________

Sleep, n. 1. A substitute for caffeiene.

Skunkwerx · Trick Member Joined: 14 Jun 2003

Are these the Naki DPR2's?

Also, will they last longer than the cheapo ignitions that you get off eBay? (like DDRNation pads)

Skunkwerx · Trick Member Joined: 14 Jun 2003

Are these the Naki DPR2's?

Also, will they last longer than the cheapo ignitions that you get off eBay? (like DDRNation pads)