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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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Goliath01364
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740. PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2003 4:20 am    Post subject: Wtf!!! Reply with quote

Alright here is my problem (hopefully someone can help!) When I first wired my pad I used a game pad colors non-analog everything worked great for about 3 days then the up button fried, this I expected because it was a cheap controler. So I soon found myself at Babbages picking up an original ps controler. After a lot of stupid mistakes, I actualy ended up ripping the copper vein right out of the chip (dont ask), I found myself at walmart (I didnt want to drive an hour again) buying a cheap madkatz contoler for $4.88, this time the wireing went perfectly but after playing for about 30seconds the up button died. So any ideas whats going on? Static electricity? I'm playing on a hardwood floor so I cant see it being that.....
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MoonJihad
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741. PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2003 9:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Casey L wrote:
ANy kind of Steel will work. Just not aluminum.


Why not aluminum?
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sokochan
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742. PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2003 10:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aluminum does conduct electricity ... just not extraordinarily well.

It acts as a superconductor near 0 degrees Kelvin ... But thats really cold so stick with steel


It has 3 valence electrons making it a poor conductor but one nonetheless. 1 more electron and it'd be a semi-conductor
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Momo -YHB-
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743. PostPosted: Mon Jun 23, 2003 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

haha..yeah wrote:
E19.gif

I just built a metal pad basically off of DDR Homepads design with a few changes that i plan on making. Right now however, I have a big "squeeking" type of problem when you step on the lucite arrows. Underneath I have top/bottom/right/left of weather stripping and in mousepad triangles in the corners...

any suggestions?


Trim the panels down. Its rubbing against the wood
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Russ-Bus
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744. PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2003 5:53 pm    Post subject: I'm just a noob with questions... Reply with quote

Okay, so I'm thinking about making one or two of these metal pads. But I have a few questions. First of all, I have a bunch of particle board laying around at my house, so could I use that instead of plywood? Second, is this pad GOING TO WORK? ( I mean I am willing to tweek it a bit, but if it doesnt work...). Third, how long have you had this pad? How long is it going to last (hopefully forever). Fourth, how heavy is this pad and how... durable is it (I need to transport it every once in a while... dont ask) Oh and if these questions have been previously asked and answered, I'm sorry.

Thanks for all the help!
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cjc312chunky
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745. PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2003 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hehe, sorry if it sounds like i'm bugging you guys with the same question, but it's getting really close to me finally building my pad. all i need to know at this point is.. can anyone confirm wether or not i shouls use the control box for my soft pad? if so, are there any techniques i need to know?
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sokochan
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746. PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2003 6:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1) What style are you going for?

DDRHomePad's design will be thinner and lighter than a patster one.

2) Nothing lasts forever

They will last a good long time if you make them correctly

3) Particle board wont work.

Particle board is far too weak and will break with very little stress

4) It will work if made correctly
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ShardDragoon
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747. PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2003 9:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:

GiZMO13SOLiD wrote:
Has anyone attempted to make a pad similar to the Cobalt Flux?
Not exactly the same, like your version of it, but using the material they use so that it's durable, and have it flat so you can slide? I'd really like to see a homepad that's just as good as a CB in comparison.


I've recently got my pad to 'functional' state. Meaning that yesterday I got my 9 squares down, 6 of which are functional buttons, 3 of which are totally stationary and don't flex when stepped on (centre, and the two rear corners). I've got just over 4" extra at the top row above the regular buttons that I'm going to use for select/start area and the middle will be nothing.

My pad is built out of 3/4" thick MDF board, I could have used melamine coated board aswell but the wood mesh in the middle reminded me of OSB board which will never be in my house when it comes time to that.. so I chose against it.

After the board was cut to size for me at home depot, I layed down my bottom layer contact of sheet metal, cut the corners for when I get around to screwing down through my top layer Lexan/Sheet metal into the board. Glued down those sheet metal 'squares' with spray adhesive, and on this first run board, put some screws through those squares since my elmers spray adhesive sucked and I ended up going back for 3M adhesive for when I got around to gluing together my 11" x 11" lexan to my sheet metal & printed buttons.

For my stationary buttons I just put some 1/8" spacer board down before laying down my lexan with sheet metal glued to it. For my flex buttons the only thing keeping them up is velcro, velcro brand stuff purchased in 4' lengths worth about $7 us I think.

Works like a dream, incredibly responsive too, hell I can stand on the centre, run my feet ½" off the edge and just put my little toes down to select left & right for songs.

Got myself a nice 4mp dig camera recently, so if anyone wants the 12 progressive shots for my control box with serial port and the pad being built I can ftp or e-mail them (take a few e-mails since they're 2megs a piece and I don't feel like downsampling them).

All in all you should be able to build this type of pad for under $100 us, cost me a bit more because of stupid extras I bought that I didn't need and a few dumb decisions I made about where to get stuff which I won't be doing when building the next pads for friends.

If you absolutely can't find Lexan locally (do not buy lucite or any other junk) then you can mail order it, 10 12" x 12" pieces for $66 us including shipping (that should cover everyone since it came from the east to the west end of canada for that price) from www.moderplastics.com, then cut it with a $3 knife you can get over by the lucite at home depot. I simply won't be doing that again because of the fees I paid when it came across the border, next time I will be getting it from industrial plastics and paint here on the west, I can get this cut for me to 11" x 11" for about $40 us for the 9 pieces I need. I ordered 10 because of the top 4" row I'm making.
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ShardDragoon
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748. PostPosted: Tue Jun 24, 2003 9:35 pm    Post subject: Pad building Reply with quote

That was bad of me, little type-o there. www.modernplastics.com was the site I went to for lexan since I was too lazy to find it locally at first (couldn't find it at home depot or rona, they don't carry it anymore here).
And just so there's no confusion they are located in Connecticut, I live in Calgary, Alberta so you shouldn't be paying more than I did if you live in the states I would imagine.

Items I needed and will be using for pad #2 of the project: The lexan of course 1/8" thick, 11" x 11" squares, 5 pieces of 26 gauge sheet metal from Home Depot got 3 pieces out of each they were 3' x 1.5' roughly, 3M spray adhesive, 4' pack of velcro, 33 & 1/4" x 33 & 1/4" MDF board (if you only want 9 squares, mine is slightly longer, but still that width). Screws are optional, got 1/2" screws going through my poorly stuck sheet metal on this prototype board, got 5/8" handy for when I screw down my buttons after I'm sure I'm done. Also printed 10" x 10" buttons I found on this forum. 1 male serial port, 1 female serial port, some 30 awg kynar wiring that I had around anyways, 1 project enclosure box, 1 used ps POS gamepad, 1 m/f serial cable. Oh ya, and 1 3' x 3' piece of 1/8" spacer board stuff.
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Andreq
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749. PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2003 6:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cjc312chunky wrote:
hehe, sorry if it sounds like i'm bugging you guys with the same question, but it's getting really close to me finally building my pad. all i need to know at this point is.. can anyone confirm wether or not i shouls use the control box for my soft pad? if so, are there any techniques i need to know?


Yes you can use a softpad control box

for the solder point :

http://membres.lycos.fr/csclanbef/DDR/PS%20wirring.html

(topway softpad)
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Russ-Bus
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750. PostPosted: Wed Jun 25, 2003 12:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm sorry, when I said plywood, I assumed thats what it was... ahhhh but it is: structureboard. See I found a link with a pic: http://www.weyerhaeuser.com/ourbusinesses/buildingproducts/structurwood/ I think the structurboard lying around might be 1'' thick though. Oh... and more questions, is this Lexan material better and/or cheaper than lucite?[/url]
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Tyris
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751. PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2003 1:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

At last! HomePad number 3, version 2.0 complete!!!

I built 2 last year... and they were a bit dodgy for a while... but since I opened em up in January and fixed em they've been going strong since.

Last holidays I started work on new plans for a thinner and cheaper version of ddrhp's. (It was originally going to fold along the diagnal too... but the wires would have been to much of a problem).
I finally finished it just now (finally wired the controller) and it works great (new record on Can't Stop Falling in Love (maniac) 5th mix first try E1.gif)
Shame it was for my friend!!! riiight.gif also, due to inflation (damn Australia is a rip off... for everything!!!) it was about the same price as the first 2 blink.gif disgust.gif . At least its only half an inch thick... or less.... and way lighter than the originals. (problem with making it so much thinner... is there's no where for the wires to go... so I had to dig rivets into the wood of the thing... VERY time consuming!!)

(already planning next pad laugh.gif ) I used copper for the contacts in my pad... does anyone know of a cheaper material that works as well...? coz its like $60 for 8 sheets peoples.gif (australian pricing... which is still a RIP!!!)
Thanx!

(good luck to everyone else building their pads!!!, and another Thanx to ddrhp for the guide!!!)
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betaiotaomega2
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752. PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2003 10:01 am    Post subject: Some UK questions. Reply with quote

1) Hey. I have been collecting the materials for building my very own pad, however, I live in the UK (in the Midlands to be more specific) and am having trouble finding somewhere that sells those Stanly corner brackets. Anyone else in the UK know where i could get some? I checked all my local hardware and DIY stores but with no luck. I might have to make my own :-S.

2) Whats the point of the hardboard on the bottem? Would it not be cheaper/lighter/thinner to just use a large sheet of plywood? Just a thought.

3) And also, whats the point of the foam core? Couldn't you just use weather stripping up to the corners of the pads?

Thanks in advance!! biggrin.gif
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sokochan
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753. PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2003 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tyris wrote:
At last! HomePad number 3, version 2.0 complete!!!

I built 2 last year... and they were a bit dodgy for a while... but since I opened em up in January and fixed em they've been going strong since.

Last holidays I started work on new plans for a thinner and cheaper version of ddrhp's. (It was originally going to fold along the diagnal too... but the wires would have been to much of a problem).
I finally finished it just now (finally wired the controller) and it works great (new record on Can't Stop Falling in Love (maniac) 5th mix first try E1.gif)
Shame it was for my friend!!! riiight.gif also, due to inflation (damn Australia is a rip off... for everything!!!) it was about the same price as the first 2 blink.gif disgust.gif . At least its only half an inch thick... or less.... and way lighter than the originals. (problem with making it so much thinner... is there's no where for the wires to go... so I had to dig rivets into the wood of the thing... VERY time consuming!!)

(already planning next pad laugh.gif ) I used copper for the contacts in my pad... does anyone know of a cheaper material that works as well...? coz its like $60 for 8 sheets peoples.gif (australian pricing... which is still a RIP!!!)
Thanx!

(good luck to everyone else building their pads!!!, and another Thanx to ddrhp for the guide!!!)




Copper is expensive no matter where you live my friend. You can use steel.
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simdude
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754. PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2003 1:04 pm    Post subject: me dumb........... Reply with quote

i feel stupid asking but i am currently saving for a PS1, a DDR pad, and DDR game. Right now i am making very little money, and can't get out to make my own pad (which i would love to do). And i have heard people say that buying a cheaper plastic pad then taping/gluing/velcro-ing to plywood/plexiglass is easier. Is this a decent solution or should i just skip the trouble and save for the metal?
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Achernar
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755. PostPosted: Thu Jun 26, 2003 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Theoretical question:

You guys who have built platforms based on the ddrhomepad style (and most especially the Patster style, which I'm planning on using):

What would you consider to be the max weight load on those doubled-up 1/2" total squares of Lexan? I'm considering hacking together a Patster-style platform (lights and all) and would like to make sure that I'm not going to punch my foot right THROUGH the thing, since I'm a fairly hefty guy.

Anyone? Anyone field tested one of these bad boys and had someone (not stomping, just moving) just shove a foot straight through a panel? I was checking out the vid of Patster and his board, and it looks like those panels are flexing pretty well - and he doesn't look like too heavy a guy...
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Tyris
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756. PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2003 4:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

@ betaiotaomega2
Down in AU the brackets were the hardest to find. Also very expensive. Try looking around (or ringing around better... ring all your local hardwares), and see if anyone has (or can order in) Corner Brackets... I got 50mm Zenith brand Corner Brackets (or maybe braces?) I was also thinking of just using flat pieces of metal instead... but if you haven't built a pad before... I'd probably suggest sticking with the instructions unless you really know what you're doing.
The hardboard on the bottom is for things to screw into... and to hold it all together... and also for stability... so really you can use anything.. just so long as its a big solid slab of wood... (or other hard substance)
I couldn't find any foam core down here... so I DID just use weather stripping... it seems to work fine.. tho I cant compare it coz I havn't tried a pad with foam core.
mine are deisgned like:
Code:

|---------
|    /
|  /
|/
|

if u get me... so two strips at 90 degrees at the corners... and a strip about an inch going diagnally accross.


@ sokochan
so... just standard steel? like the stuff for the steps etc? Thx


@ simdude
I believe doing that would work... coz that really is that biggest problem with plastic pads (slipping around). I havn't tried myself. If you can find a cheap one (my friend gets em for about $10US or something :|) then go for it.. otherwise if you're confident you can handle building a metal pad... save for it (they're worth it E4.gif )


@ Achernar
I'm a pretty darn light person myself... but the home pads seem pretty darn good. DDRHP's would probably be better.. coz you can chuck stax of wood in for support (so its far more solid)... Patsters (I havnt built one of his.... or looked much at em) has deep holes underneath for the lights I think... so would be far more likely to break... tho with strong enough perspex (maybe get some thicker stuff and adjust the design for it?) should be fine... check their guides tho... I thought they had a rough wieght limit on em...
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Achernar
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757. PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2003 4:44 am    Post subject: Re: Pad building Reply with quote

ShardDragoon wrote:
That was bad of me, little type-o there. www.modernplastics.com was the site I went to for lexan since I was too lazy to find it locally at first (couldn't find it at home depot or rona, they don't carry it anymore here).
And just so there's no confusion they are located in Connecticut, I live in Calgary, Alberta so you shouldn't be paying more than I did if you live in the states I would imagine.

Items I needed and will be using for pad #2 of the project: The lexan of course 1/8" thick, 11" x 11" squares, 5 pieces of 26 gauge sheet metal from Home Depot got 3 pieces out of each they were 3' x 1.5' roughly, 3M spray adhesive, 4' pack of velcro, 33 & 1/4" x 33 & 1/4" MDF board (if you only want 9 squares, mine is slightly longer, but still that width). Screws are optional, got 1/2" screws going through my poorly stuck sheet metal on this prototype board, got 5/8" handy for when I screw down my buttons after I'm sure I'm done. Also printed 10" x 10" buttons I found on this forum. 1 male serial port, 1 female serial port, some 30 awg kynar wiring that I had around anyways, 1 project enclosure box, 1 used ps POS gamepad, 1 m/f serial cable. Oh ya, and 1 3' x 3' piece of 1/8" spacer board stuff.


Where did you get that price for the Lexan on this site? All I can find is 12"x12" at something like $25 per SHEET.... unless I'm reading it wrong....
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ZotTower
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758. PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2003 6:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Achernar wrote:
Theoretical question:

You guys who have built platforms based on the ddrhomepad style (and most especially the Patster style, which I'm planning on using):

What would you consider to be the max weight load on those doubled-up 1/2" total squares of Lexan? I'm considering hacking together a Patster-style platform (lights and all) and would like to make sure that I'm not going to punch my foot right THROUGH the thing, since I'm a fairly hefty guy.

Anyone? Anyone field tested one of these bad boys and had someone (not stomping, just moving) just shove a foot straight through a panel? I was checking out the vid of Patster and his board, and it looks like those panels are flexing pretty well - and he doesn't look like too heavy a guy...


I weigh 190 and I stomp on my panels pretty hard. They are 2 1/4" pieces of lexan. So a half inch of it total. They flex a little bit, but not bad. I wouldn't want anybody over ~300 pounds stomping on it. Lexan is really damn sturdy though and is not the type of plastic that snaps. It would probably bend all the way to the base of the arrow wells first. So maybe it could hold more weight. I dont know. If you are NOT using lexan, id definatly not want anybody more than 250 pounds or so on it. Acrylic material DOES snap, and could make for a painful and dangerous situation if somebody is not wearing shoes.
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Achernar
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759. PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2003 6:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZotTower wrote:
Achernar wrote:
Theoretical question:

You guys who have built platforms based on the ddrhomepad style (and most especially the Patster style, which I'm planning on using):

What would you consider to be the max weight load on those doubled-up 1/2" total squares of Lexan? I'm considering hacking together a Patster-style platform (lights and all) and would like to make sure that I'm not going to punch my foot right THROUGH the thing, since I'm a fairly hefty guy.

Anyone? Anyone field tested one of these bad boys and had someone (not stomping, just moving) just shove a foot straight through a panel? I was checking out the vid of Patster and his board, and it looks like those panels are flexing pretty well - and he doesn't look like too heavy a guy...


I weigh 190 and I stomp on my panels pretty hard. They are 2 1/4" pieces of lexan. So a half inch of it total. They flex a little bit, but not bad. I wouldn't want anybody over ~300 pounds stomping on it. Lexan is really damn sturdy though and is not the type of plastic that snaps. It would probably bend all the way to the base of the arrow wells first. So maybe it could hold more weight. I dont know. If you are NOT using lexan, id definatly not want anybody more than 250 pounds or so on it. Acrylic material DOES snap, and could make for a painful and dangerous situation if somebody is not wearing shoes.


I'm about 265-270, so i was just making sure.

Lexan it is.
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