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Andreq
Trick Member
Joined: 11 Apr 2003
Location: Quebec foreva |
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tisbj
Basic Member
Joined: 19 Jun 2003
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721.  Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2003 11:58 am Post subject: Arrows Still Aren't Working |
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| sokochan wrote: | | tisbj, It seems like the contact aren't making good contact. Try making sure everything is even and and solders don't get in the way of the metal touching (Solder is a bad conductor) |
In "making sure everything is even", do you mean to make sure that the top and bottom halves are aligned, and not off-center, or do you mean to make sure that the top and bottom halves are of equal size? In either case, how "even" do they have to be?
Also, I don't see how the solder could "get in the way of the metal touching (Solder is a bad conductor)", as the instructions say to "cover the soldered part with a few layers of duct tape". Could you please clarify this? With a vague understanding of what was meant by this, I tried moving the soldering connections to the edge of each of the top and bottom halves of the arrows, cutting a small squares of duct tape to make it as far out of the way as possible (though this strays slightly from the instructions). It worked quite nicely for a time - the arrows registered well, though the rapid-fire problem remained - but then they mysteriously started registering badly again.
Note that I am testing the pad without the final screws in place, those holding the arrows and metal to the pegboard, but this shouldn't make a difference, should it? Note also that the rapid-fire problem is consistent - it happens EVERY time a button is held down. |
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Momo -YHB-
Trick Member
Joined: 15 Feb 2003
Location: Killeen, Texas |
| 722. Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2003 12:08 pm Post subject: |
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 Finished my pads last night and they work like a dream. First I tested it on light, worked fine, then one some on standard, and then did my usual heavy songs. Got an AA on Matsuri Japan heavy with the pads I built :-) Thanks to DDRHOMEPAD and RIPTIDE for the inspiration and BLUEBEEFMAN for the help he gave me. |
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Momo -YHB-
Trick Member
Joined: 15 Feb 2003
Location: Killeen, Texas |
| 723. Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2003 12:12 pm Post subject: Re: Arrows Still Aren't Working |
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| tisbj wrote: | | sokochan wrote: | | tisbj, It seems like the contact aren't making good contact. Try making sure everything is even and and solders don't get in the way of the metal touching (Solder is a bad conductor) |
In "making sure everything is even", do you mean to make sure that the top and bottom halves are aligned, and not off-center, or do you mean to make sure that the top and bottom halves are of equal size? In either case, how "even" do they have to be?
Also, I don't see how the solder could "get in the way of the metal touching (Solder is a bad conductor)", as the instructions say to "cover the soldered part with a few layers of duct tape". Could you please clarify this? With a vague understanding of what was meant by this, I tried moving the soldering connections to the edge of each of the top and bottom halves of the arrows, cutting a small squares of duct tape to make it as far out of the way as possible (though this strays slightly from the instructions). It worked quite nicely for a time - the arrows registered well, though the rapid-fire problem remained - but then they mysteriously started registering badly again.
Note that I am testing the pad without the final screws in place, those holding the arrows and metal to the pegboard, but this shouldn't make a difference, should it? Note also that the rapid-fire problem is consistent - it happens EVERY time a button is held down. |
I may be able to help you out but I just need to know who's contact design you're using. |
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tisbj
Basic Member
Joined: 19 Jun 2003
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| 724. Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2003 12:33 pm Post subject: Re: Arrows Still Aren't Working |
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| DDRMomo wrote: | | I may be able to help you out but I just need to know who's contact design you're using. |
Contact design? Well, I'm using the instructions found on http://www.geocities.com/ddrhomepad/ |
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cjc312chunky
Trick Member
Joined: 29 Nov 2002
Location: NY |
| 725. Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2003 1:22 pm Post subject: |
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| i took apart the control box for a soft pad a while ago and diagramed the connections. I just need some confirmation from soneone that used a soft pad control box. Did it work? Was there anything special to do when soldering the connections? |
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Collector
Trick Member
Joined: 24 Jan 2002
Location: Canada |
| 726. Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2003 2:15 pm Post subject: |
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That seems to be an Interact controller PCB because I had one like that. |
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GiZMO13SOLiD
Trick Member
Joined: 24 Apr 2003
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| 727. Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2003 3:03 pm Post subject: |
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Has anyone attempted to make a pad similar to the Cobalt Flux?
Not exactly the same, like your version of it, but using the material they use so that it's durable, and have it flat so you can slide? I'd really like to see a homepad that's just as good as a CB in comparison. |
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Momo -YHB-
Trick Member
Joined: 15 Feb 2003
Location: Killeen, Texas |
| 728. Posted: Sat Jun 21, 2003 3:52 pm Post subject: Re: Arrows Still Aren't Working |
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| tisbj wrote: | | DDRMomo wrote: | | I may be able to help you out but I just need to know who's contact design you're using. |
Contact design? Well, I'm using the instructions found on http://www.geocities.com/ddrhomepad/ |
You can do like I did mine in a way. I used BlueBeefmans contact design. With DDRHOMEPADS contact design, on thebig piece of sheet metal, instead of soldering to it, you can drill a small hole into one of the corners f the sheet metal and wrap a wire around the edge of the sheet metal into the hole. Use a 3/32 inch drill bit if u have one |
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DDR4ever2003
Basic Member
Joined: 18 Jun 2003
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| 729. Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2003 9:31 am Post subject: |
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so no one here can solder for me if i pay them and pay for shipping?  |
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Momo -YHB-
Trick Member
Joined: 15 Feb 2003
Location: Killeen, Texas |
| 730. Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2003 12:05 pm Post subject: |
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| DDR4ever2003 wrote: | | so no one here can solder for me if i pay them and pay for shipping? |
I can do it for ya, just let me know what you're offering to pay and what kind of controller u have |
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ZotTower
Trick Member
Joined: 28 Aug 2002
Location: Courthouse Plaza, Arlington, VA |
| 731. Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2003 1:52 pm Post subject: |
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Here is my finished pad that I forgot to post...
http://student.seas.gwu.edu/~zottower/Finished%20Pad.JPG
Other pics: http://student.seas.gwu.edu/~zottower/DDR%20Pad/
It works really well. I got a 97.6% on Order1 Oni course on japanese MAX2 and can do my normal 8,9 footers with AA's. It held up to paranoia survivor just fine too. The secret to getting it accurate (if you're using my, riptide or beefman's designs) is to make sure that your arrow panels only have to move down a TINY TINY bit. Like no more than 1mm. It's pretty hard to get that to happen (I used washers under beefman's corner braces to do it) and it took me a few hours messing with all the arrows to get them like that. But it paid off because when you step you don't get a sinking feeling and it feels like the arcade pads. It's also a lot quieter when the panels dont have to move down as much.
But, after playing on it all day yesterday and a few hours today, I came across my first problem. After I had played for about an hour and was half way through the Order2 Oni on max2, all the buttons stopped responding for a few seconds. So obviously I died right there. The buttons came right back to life after I unplugged the pad, went back to the main screen using a normal controller, and plugged the pad back in though. Then it happened to me again 10 minutes after that, but it came back to life a couple seconds later (I didn't have to unplug it that time).
I am using original psx controllers (the only kind I have never had problems with...until maybe now). Has anybody had this problem and been able to fix it?
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Momo -YHB-
Trick Member
Joined: 15 Feb 2003
Location: Killeen, Texas |
| 732. Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2003 2:23 pm Post subject: |
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| ZotTower wrote: | Here is my finished pad that I forgot to post...
http://student.seas.gwu.edu/~zottower/Finished%20Pad.JPG
Other pics: http://student.seas.gwu.edu/~zottower/DDR%20Pad/
It works really well. I got a 97.6% on Order1 Oni course on japanese MAX2 and can do my normal 8,9 footers with AA's. It held up to paranoia survivor just fine too. The secret to getting it accurate (if you're using my, riptide or beefman's designs) is to make sure that your arrow panels only have to move down a TINY TINY bit. Like no more than 1mm. It's pretty hard to get that to happen (I used washers under beefman's corner braces to do it) and it took me a few hours messing with all the arrows to get them like that. But it paid off because when you step you don't get a sinking feeling and it feels like the arcade pads. It's also a lot quieter when the panels dont have to move down as much.
But, after playing on it all day yesterday and a few hours today, I came across my first problem. After I had played for about an hour and was half way through the Order2 Oni on max2, all the buttons stopped responding for a few seconds. So obviously I died right there. The buttons came right back to life after I unplugged the pad, went back to the main screen using a normal controller, and plugged the pad back in though. Then it happened to me again 10 minutes after that, but it came back to life a couple seconds later (I didn't have to unplug it that time).
I am using original psx controllers (the only kind I have never had problems with...until maybe now). Has anybody had this problem and been able to fix it? |
I haven't ran into any problems with my pads, and I spent about 3 or so hours non stop. I used a regular psx controller like you did and I haven't ran into that problem yet. I'll have pics of my pad whenever I get a chance to and I'll post them up. A funny thing about my ;pad though is instead of washers, I used Putt Putt tokens, talk about ghetto hehe. |
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sokochan
Trick Member
Joined: 06 Jun 2003
Location: Easton, Massachusetts |
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DDR4ever2003
Basic Member
Joined: 18 Jun 2003
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| 734. Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2003 3:58 pm Post subject: |
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| well i have the controller that ddr homepad used on his design..i have one modification to...i need all the solder points done plus 2 extra...one of start and select and i have 2 cherry microswitches for those. I guess ill look to pay around 10$ plus the shipping so if thats good then let me know |
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AcidBurnISU
Trick Member
Joined: 31 May 2003
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| 735. Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2003 4:16 pm Post subject: |
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2 questions.
1. If I were to use 22 guage sheet metal instead of 26 guage sheet metal, would I have to modify anything else to make everything fit, or will it even matter?
2. What kind of sheet metal am I supposed to use. I asked at Menards and Lowes and they said that Zinc Stainless Steel doesnt exist.
Btw, I am going to use ddrhomepad's design. |
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Tomo-kun AKA s1
Trick Member
Joined: 18 Aug 2002
Location: In a ditch |
| 736. Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2003 5:42 pm Post subject: |
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Just a Double check with the topway AND naki pcb, they are the same, the naki pad dose say it is a topay pcb you DO solder on the contacts that are black that the pad usese, or do you solder on the metal bumps above them.
-tomonari kasumi
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i havnt logged in for a while, stupid sims online, ill post more now.
s1400mhz |
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Casey L
Basic Member
Joined: 18 Jun 2003
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| 737. Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2003 5:42 pm Post subject: |
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ANy kind of Steel will work. Just not aluminum. You could also use Galvinized Steel, but it looks real bad. (Looks like frost) Stainless will be the best because it won't rust and it will look shiny.
You could probably get some 25 gauge sheet metal real cheap at a machine shop. |
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Andreq
Trick Member
Joined: 11 Apr 2003
Location: Quebec foreva |
| 738. Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2003 7:17 pm Post subject: |
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| Tomo-kun AKA s1 wrote: | Just a Double check with the topway AND naki pcb, they are the same, the naki pad dose say it is a topay pcb you DO solder on the contacts that are black that the pad usese, or do you solder on the metal bumps above them.
-tomonari kasumi |
You must scrach the black thing and after that it will stick (it will not stick on the black thing.....if it stick... wow... lol...) if its not sticking when its scrached try to do "X" when scraching "crossing line" its more rougth and stick more.
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haha..yeah
Trick Member
Joined: 12 Dec 2002
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| 739. Posted: Sun Jun 22, 2003 10:37 pm Post subject: |
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I just built a metal pad basically off of DDR Homepads design with a few changes that i plan on making. Right now however, I have a big "squeeking" type of problem when you step on the lucite arrows. Underneath I have top/bottom/right/left of weather stripping and in mousepad triangles in the corners...
any suggestions?
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