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Goliath01364 Trick Member
Joined: 26 May 2003 Location: Lowell, MA |
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Jikmo Basic Member
Joined: 26 May 2003
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501. Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2003 8:04 pm Post subject: |
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ive had my Beat Pads for about 3 1/2 months now. when i first got them i was stupid and didnt mod them at all, so the one ripped at the seam in the back. i then taped it up and duct taped it to a plastic carpet cover (one to protect the carpet from chairs) which works well. i only had one cover though, so the other i just taped striaght to the ground. it's worked well, but within the past week i just noticed that the back arrow on the pad i tapes straight to the ground was unresponsive, and i found that the contact had moved
im having a ddr party on monday (which kinda sucks to have a ddr party and 1 pad not working)
does anyone know if there's a solution to fix contacts that have moved? like do i cut open the pad on the bottom and move the contact back into place or whatever? are there any diagrams of the circuitry anywhere that i can look at? id rather know what im doing before i cut off the top or bottom or both of my pad and try to move stuff around
im guessing that the contacts are on a sheet or something that probably folded over, so it'll probably be easy to fix once i open it, but id still rather know what im doing before i do it. |
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Kazooie074 Basic Member
Joined: 13 Jun 2003 Location: Denver CO |
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pathos Basic Member
Joined: 13 Mar 2003 Location: Austin, TX |
503. Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:27 am Post subject: WARNING about RedOctane's Ignition 2.0 pads fragility |
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Okay, I wish someone had told me this before I bought my pads, so here it is for all of you:
WARNING: THE REDOCTANE IGNITION 2.0 PAD WIRING IS EXTREMELY FRAGILE. Seriously, it's gotta be one of the worst pieces of engineering work I've ever seen. I tripped over the cord on my pad and it tore the cord out. I opened the pad up and it turns out that the *wires soldered to the PC board* were the ONLY thing holding the cord in!! no stabilized metal ring, nothing. RedOctane, what in the hell were you thinking??? Plus, everything internally is a hand-soldered mess. And the underside of the PC board has this weird wax all over it...
So I recommend against these pads. Or, if you must buy one, the very first thing you should do is secure the cord with tape. A lot of tape. A lot of very strong tape. And never pull on the cord, or trip on it. Be very careful. It's very fragile.
Angry pathos.
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pathos Basic Member
Joined: 13 Mar 2003 Location: Austin, TX |
504. Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:31 am Post subject: Wiring diagram for RedOctane Ignition 2.0 pads? |
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Continuing from my previous post, I have to fix my pad now and it's going to be tough to solder. But right now, it's going to be impossible because I don't know where the wires went.
Can anyone tell me where the wires go on the RedOctane Ignition 2.0 pads? There's red, orange, yellow, green, blue, brown, and black wires, and there are 7 solder spots on the front of the PC board plus a solder blob on a resistor on the front, too.
One of the 7 front contacts (the one nearest the resistor) looks like it never had a wire in it, so I'm guessing that 6 of the wires go in the remaining 6 contacts and the 7th goes onto the resistor.
Can anyone verify this, and tell me the order?
Thanks!!
pathos |
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pathos Basic Member
Joined: 13 Mar 2003 Location: Austin, TX |
505. Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:32 am Post subject: More wiring diagram |
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In fact, the best thing in the world would be if someone were cool enough to take a quick digicam picture or two of their Ignition 2.0 PC board and send them to me... pretty please?
thanks!
pathos |
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Jikmo Basic Member
Joined: 26 May 2003
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506. Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2003 9:15 am Post subject: |
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Kazooie074: i'd stay with the plywood, that's the best. you're probably just steping too hard. don't stomp! as u just found out, it not only hurts the pads but also your feet! and if you're not stomping (don't see how not, i mean, it shouldn't hurt when u just walk on plywood) then the charmat should be good, as i said that's what i use (but i wish i had some plywood, my friend brought a ddr pad attached to plywood yesterday and it was really nice) |
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pathos Basic Member
Joined: 13 Mar 2003 Location: Austin, TX |
507. Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2003 10:21 am Post subject: Ignition 2.0 wiring |
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okay, i figured it out.
in case anyone's curious, here's the deal on the wiring for Ignition 2s, assuming the pc boards for them are all the same.
you have 7 contacts and a diode or something off to the side, at the front of the board.
kind of like this:
Code: |
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| --D-- | O O O O O O O | |
| ----------------- |
A B C D E F G H
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so the Os are the contact holes (which are actually encircled by a thin white rectangle on the pc board), and the --D-- is the diode mounted to the board. this is looking at it from the top of the PC board (the side where all the resistors and whatnot are mounted.)
and the letters A-H are just letters i put there so i can refer to them.
(note: i'm just calling that thing a diode; i'm not sure that's what it is, but whatever.)
then, because maybe not all ignition 2 controller cables have the same wires of the same colors, let's check out the controller pinout that i'm ripping off of http://www.gamesx.com/controldata/psxcont/psxcont.htm.
Code: |
LOOKING AT THE PLUG
-------------------------------
PIN 1-> | o o o | o o o | o o o |
\_____________________________/
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so, here are the correspondences, where the number is the ps2 controller pin, the letter is the spot on the pc board, and the color is the color that the wire on my pad happens to be for that spot.
obviously, you should use a multimeter or something and test your particular wires against the pins on the controller plug to actually figure out how they correspond, because, like i said, maybe they're not all the same.
MAPPING:
Code: |
MAPPING:
A (diode) -- red wire -- pin 5 (VCC, i.e. the power)
B -- none -- none (this one's empty)
C -- yellow wire -- pin 6 (ATT)
D -- blue wire -- pin 7 (clock)
E -- orange wire -- pin 2 (command)
F -- green wire -- pin 9 (acknowledgement)
G -- brown wire -- pin 1 (data)
H -- black wire -- pin 4 (ground)
NOTE: the wire running to the diode is soldered to the side of it furthest from the other contacts, i.e. the LEFT SIDE of the diode on my above diagram.
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there you have it. a friend of mine who is better with soldering than i am managed to get mine back together. now i have more cleanup work and it looks like the pad should be working.
but boy, you'd expect a much more durable pad for the money. it's about as sturdy as fine china. |
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ojste Basic Member
Joined: 13 Jun 2003 Location: England |
508. Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2003 12:07 pm Post subject: |
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right ive been wanting to mod my pad, and ive been looking at Tommyguns mod..
"I bought two pieces of wood (about 34 by 39 inches), sanded them down, and stuck double-sided carpet tape on them. Stuck down the pads, put the clear covers over them, and used black duct-tape all around the edges to secure the whole thing."
what type of wood will be best? and what material is the clear covers?
thx for the help |
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spyjuice10 Trick Member
Joined: 24 Feb 2003
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509. Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2003 2:49 pm Post subject: |
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I happen to have a RedOctane Ignition 2.0 pad as well and my zipper piece kinda broke off...
The zipper track is completely fine, all i need is a new zipper..zipper thingy.
Has anyone else had this problem? If so, how did u fix it?
I'm gonna take my pad to a hardware store and see what they can do...i think the top quality zippers are like 25 cents or so... |
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Darkling Trick Member
Joined: 29 May 2002
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510. Posted: Tue Jun 17, 2003 4:48 pm Post subject: |
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In a totally unrelated tangent.
I just played in an arcade today and realized something. When playing on soft pads, you learn to step low. So now I trip over the metal and brackets in the arcade. None of the softpad mods seem to address this. I mean Marking where the arrow is is fine, but dang, tripping in the middle of Healing Vision Angelic Mix is no fun when it makes you fail right at your 100 combo... *bitterness* _________________
"...Excuse me! Farmer Extremely Unhelpful! ...you're STRAW!"
"Passengers will please refrain from KILLING MY SOUL!"
-The many crazed utterings of Driver Stu |
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Jikmo Basic Member
Joined: 26 May 2003
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511. Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2003 11:31 am Post subject: |
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yeah, i dont think there's any way to train yourself to not hit the brackets unless u buy a metal pad (or maybe just put sheet metal or wood or something ontop of your pad) and it doesnt help that whenever i go to an arcade i get all nervous cuz of the crowd
and marking the arrow hurts! i marked it with 3 layers of ducttape once, and it gave me a huge blister, even with wearing 2 layers of socks
ok, i still need to know about the curcuitry on the inside of the pads. i just built a psx->printer port adapter (following the instructions that u can find anywhere) and it's really annoying to not be able to do doubles since i only have 1 working pad. the ddr party only went well because i got someone else to bring her pads. i just need to know what the circuitry looks like, where it is in the pad, and how i could fix it if it's torn or something (i can only use the top left part of my down arrow, the rest of it is unresponsive, i assume it's either torn or folded over) |
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pathos Basic Member
Joined: 13 Mar 2003 Location: Austin, TX |
512. Posted: Wed Jun 18, 2003 8:57 pm Post subject: pad repair |
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hey, jikmo,
i don't know what kind of pad you mean by "beat pad" (i.e. what kind of price range / quality) but fundamentally the actual "sensor" logic in the pad is not that elaborate; generally speaking it's just two contact plates separated by something that is just squishy enough that when you step on it it pushes the contacts together -- pretty straightforward...
(actually, some of the cheaper pads i've used seem to have self-contained little circles for the sensors, but i assume they're probably the same thing, but it's easier to make the device robust the less surface area the plates have to have, so the cheap pads go for small sensors.)
first of all, it may be that the particular buttons' connections to the main circuitry at the head of the pad is busted. check out this page (which redoctane includes in customer service emails!) for an example of improving contact between the pc board and the ribbon cable on ignition 2s the high tech way: with a little piece of cardboard. i had to do this to my ignition 2s and it worked like a charm.
http://home.earthlink.net/~reversengineer/ignitionpadrepair/ignitionpadrepair.html.
if the problem doesn't seem to be at the head of the pad, then go for the rest... i can't imagine that the sensor plates would be mounted to the outer pad material. especially if the sensor is sliding around, then obviously it's not. so i'd just take an x-acto knife, slit the pad open around its border (i.e. all four edges) while it's lying face-down, carefully pull back the bottom of the pad (i'd stop immediately if anything looks like it's fastened to that pad bottom, flip the pad carefully, and try again with the top) and just look at what's there.
for the most part i expect that the circuitry is printed on plastic sheets, so you shouldn't have to worry about damaging that unless you scratch the plastic. then, find the sensors that aren't working, make sure they're not torn off the plastic circuitry sheet, and just kind of check out the sensor itself. if it's completely sealed then it might be tough to fix unless you're comfortable slicing it open around the edge and checking it out.
like i said, expect some kind of foam or rubber padding material sandwiched between two contact plates. then, when you squeeze them together, they should make contact and close the circuit. maybe they got dirty? try some Flux Off or something to clean them, perhaps. or they're torn or something's broken, in which case it's gonna be tougher, especially since you can't really solder in there without melting all the plastic and making a huge mess.
oh, and obviously all of this is super-risky as far as its potential to destroy your pad entirely. so don't do it unless you're comfortable doing it. and i don't actually know what pad you have, so i'm speculating a lot here. and if you bust up your pad it ain't my fault.
good luck! |
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pathos Basic Member
Joined: 13 Mar 2003 Location: Austin, TX |
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Jikmo Basic Member
Joined: 26 May 2003
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514. Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2003 1:02 pm Post subject: |
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thanks
Beat Pads are by MadCatz btw
that's kinda what i was expecting, my other pad tore on the bottom so ive seen the inside of it, i just didnt understand how it worked until recently (like yesterday )
ill open it up and try to fix it later today and tell u how it goes
if i remember correctly from when i looked at the inside of my other pad, the contacts are strips of foil attached the top and bottom of the pad that look like this
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|--------|
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(with more rows and less spacing between them)
so probably on the one side it got stratched off so it looks like this
--- -----| (because the top left of the button still works)
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|---------|
and so on
i might be able to fix it by just taping some foil to it, but i havent actually looked at what the problem is, so i dont actually know. and i think the foil will rip easily, so i dunno
eh, i might end up building my own pad some day, it'll really suck and probably break easily, but i might build my own |
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pathos Basic Member
Joined: 13 Mar 2003 Location: Austin, TX |
515. Posted: Thu Jun 19, 2003 1:31 pm Post subject: conductive glue |
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you can buy conductive epoxy and silicone adhesives and stuff. i bet a radio shack or home depot would carry some kind of conductive glue you could use to just "paint" the circuit back on with a thin coat of that instead of taping foil. i bet conductive glue would be much more robust and last indefinitely where foil would probably tear or scrunch up and be a big pain. |
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Warg Trick Member
Joined: 27 Jan 2003
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Daegon Trick Member
Joined: 04 Apr 2003 Location: Rockville, MD (City Place) |
517. Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2003 3:05 pm Post subject: |
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Ok. I've had a pair of Cyphergames Ignition 2's for a few months, and they're finally ghost stepping and "dying." So, being as electronically knowledgeable as I am, i cut off the sides of the pad and dissasemble the pad peice by peice. To explain to those who are not as technically informed as some of us (yeah, you. I'm asking you the question, hold on)
Here's a diagram of the makeup of any soft pad
_________ layer 1- the strong part you step on.
_________ layer 2- the positive contacts for the arrows
_________ layer 3- open cell foam with holes for the contacts to contact eachother through
_________ layer 4- the ground contacts for the arrows
_________ layer 5- the thin plastic sheet to keep everything together
Ok.. that was pretty poor.
The issue is that the layer of open cell foam has worn out on my pads. I'm trying to figgure out what to replace it with, preferably something that wont wear out as readily as the foam that was in there before. I'm thinking that the closed cell "nonslip" foam on the underside of the majority of pads would work well, i could just cut holes in it and use that .. But if you already knew all that i have a question. Seeing as every pad's hole'd foam between the contact sheets will eventually wear out, what is the best material to replace that worn out layer with? _________________
Santa already owns various holidays, he's a very powerful gentleman. I'd be surprised if he -didn't- own Canada by now |
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Warg Trick Member
Joined: 27 Jan 2003
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518. Posted: Fri Jun 20, 2003 8:32 pm Post subject: Mad Catz are good |
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Acctually, Mad Catz Beat Pads ($15-$20) are very high performers. Lawrence and I had them set up and completed Healing Vision Angelic MIx with an A, Rythym and Police with an A, and MAtsuri Japan with an A, not to mention numerous 8 footers and below with great scores. We even managed to beat Max 300 on 1.5X with a D on the $15 pads, which in my opinion is a great feat in itself. Pictures tommorow! _________________
Warg |
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Kazooie074 Basic Member
Joined: 13 Jun 2003 Location: Denver CO |
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