View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
PHSwarrior Basic Member
Joined: 10 Jun 2003 Location: Tucson, AZ |
660. Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2003 7:49 pm Post subject: Thanx |
|
|
Asuka-
Thanx guy and yeah i graduated from Pueblo bout 3 wees ago, i was on the drum-line, thanx for the helpful advice _________________
Drum-Line what! PHS 2003 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
MrNapknMan Basic Member
Joined: 08 Feb 2003
|
661. Posted: Wed Jun 11, 2003 8:31 pm Post subject: fried controllers |
|
|
As with many other people, I have a problem with frying controllers. A few posts back I read something about static frying the controller, which makes sense, as I tend to notice a difference in how long a controller lasts when I say no shoes allowed or not. So, how would I stop this static? Maybe somehow ground the panels? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Goliath01364 Trick Member
Joined: 26 May 2003 Location: Lowell, MA |
|
Back to top |
|
|
sokochan Trick Member
Joined: 06 Jun 2003 Location: Easton, Massachusetts |
|
Back to top |
|
|
nekomi-chan Basic Member
Joined: 11 Jun 2003
|
664. Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2003 8:10 am Post subject: Steel for your design.. |
|
|
Just a question for any of you who have successfully built ddrhomepad's metal design... I'm starting my own pad tonight and need a little guidance.
What kind of steel is appropriate for this project? His website specifies 26 gauge stainless steel, but I can't find stainless anywhere. About the only thing I've found is galvanized steel, which seems to be OK from what I've read here on the forums... I'm also having trouble locating the right gauge. Has anyone here had success with any other gauge steel? (I seem to be finding 30-gauge galvanized pretty much everywhere I go.)
Thanks a bunch in advance. ^__^ |
|
Back to top |
|
|
-joe- Trick Member
Joined: 08 Jan 2003 Location: lv |
665. Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2003 8:34 am Post subject: Re: Steel for your design.. |
|
|
nekomi-chan wrote: | Just a question for any of you who have successfully built ddrhomepad's metal design... I'm starting my own pad tonight and need a little guidance.
What kind of steel is appropriate for this project? His website specifies 26 gauge stainless steel, but I can't find stainless anywhere. About the only thing I've found is galvanized steel, which seems to be OK from what I've read here on the forums... I'm also having trouble locating the right gauge. Has anyone here had success with any other gauge steel? (I seem to be finding 30-gauge galvanized pretty much everywhere I go.)
Thanks a bunch in advance. ^__^ |
galvanized steel will be fine. Thats what im using in my pad.
26 gague will be your best bet. do NOT get 30 gague, it will be too thin
look as hard as u can for 26 gague _________________
good times, good times. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
marsman57 Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jul 2002 Location: North Augusta/Columbia, SC |
666. Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2003 10:30 am Post subject: Re: Steel for your design.. |
|
|
nekomi-chan wrote: | About the only thing I've found is galvanized steel, which seems to be OK from what I've read here on the forums... |
Galvanized is fine, but you will have a 1 million times easier job at soldering onto it if you scrape the metal around where you want to solder with a knife edge or something. Solder doesn't stick so well to the galvanized zinc plating. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Thrawn Basic Member
Joined: 30 Jan 2003
|
667. Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2003 1:57 pm Post subject: Metal Braces/Brackets |
|
|
Is there any cheaper alternative to the 2" stanley brackets?
They get a little expensive buying them for both pads, can you get cheaper ones online or at some store? I looked a little but couldn't find anything except at the actual ddr site, which doesnt seem to want to sell them (but prices them at $0.90). |
|
Back to top |
|
|
-joe- Trick Member
Joined: 08 Jan 2003 Location: lv |
668. Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2003 4:30 pm Post subject: Re: Steel for your design.. |
|
|
marsman57 wrote: | nekomi-chan wrote: | About the only thing I've found is galvanized steel, which seems to be OK from what I've read here on the forums... |
Galvanized is fine, but you will have a 1 million times easier job at soldering onto it if you scrape the metal around where you want to solder with a knife edge or something. Solder doesn't stick so well to the galvanized zinc plating. |
i didnt even solder my panels together, i just drilled a small hole in the corners and twisted the wire through it. Works fine _________________
good times, good times. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Andreq Trick Member
Joined: 11 Apr 2003 Location: Quebec foreva |
669. Posted: Thu Jun 12, 2003 5:29 pm Post subject: Re: Metal Braces/Brackets |
|
|
Thrawn wrote: | Is there any cheaper alternative to the 2" stanley brackets?
They get a little expensive buying them for both pads, can you get cheaper ones online or at some store? I looked a little but couldn't find anything except at the actual ddr site, which doesnt seem to want to sell them (but prices them at $0.90). |
you can have them made a local metal shop if you go with the plan. I did that and it was ¾ the price.
you can find the plan on a post that i wrote in page 32 or 33... near those page _________________
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Tomo-kun AKA s1 Trick Member
Joined: 18 Aug 2002 Location: In a ditch |
670. Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2003 5:13 am Post subject: |
|
|
im now starting to get plans for a DDR homepad. im useing riptides design, i have a question, will a controler box from an old soft pad work?
s1 |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Weston Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2003 Location: Minnesota |
671. Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2003 7:26 am Post subject: |
|
|
Yes, as long as you know which parts of the curcuit board control each arrow, and that you replace the material that it uses for it's wires with copper wires. The only thing I don't like about the circuit board in the controller box is that it is so big. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Andreq Trick Member
Joined: 11 Apr 2003 Location: Quebec foreva |
672. Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2003 12:10 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Weston wrote: | Yes, as long as you know which parts of the curcuit board control each arrow, and that you replace the material that it uses for it's wires with copper wires. The only thing I don't like about the circuit board in the controller box is that it is so big. |
You talk about the controller box or the circuit itself ??... its smaller than a normal joypad.... the controller box is big (blue or black thing over the circuit) but the circuit itself is really small and can go between the 2 2x4. _________________
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Momo -YHB- Trick Member
Joined: 15 Feb 2003 Location: Killeen, Texas |
673. Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2003 12:23 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Well the money is in and Im going to start building my pads here within the next few days. I just need to get a hold of all the materials. Im not sure who's contacts im going to use though. Im thinking of using beefmans contacts but probably with the latex tubing from home depot, or try his contact design with weatherstripping like riptide used in his contacts. I tested my soldering skills on a pc gamepad of mine and I got the hang of it and all the buttons I made work fine, so soldering shouldn't be a problem for me. Im gonna go with a non analog sony controller, as beefman told me, they don't short out like madkatz do and soldering to it is not a problem, so thanks to beefman and riptide and DDRHOMEPAD for making all this happen |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Goliath01364 Trick Member
Joined: 26 May 2003 Location: Lowell, MA |
|
Back to top |
|
|
nekomi-chan Basic Member
Joined: 11 Jun 2003
|
675. Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2003 1:31 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thank you all for your help regarding the metal! I was able to find the 26 gauge plated sheets at another Home Depot in my area. Thank you!! ^__^
I do have another question, though. ^__^ I recently picked up a Gamestop PlayStation analog controller to use in my pad. A programmer who's helping us build the pad coded a little button tester so we can make sure all the buttons are working, and we discovered that right and left cannot be hit at the same time, and up and down have the same problem. Any idea on what we can do? ^^ Any help is appreciated. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Andreq Trick Member
Joined: 11 Apr 2003 Location: Quebec foreva |
676. Posted: Fri Jun 13, 2003 6:04 pm Post subject: |
|
|
nekomi-chan wrote: | Thank you all for your help regarding the metal! I was able to find the 26 gauge plated sheets at another Home Depot in my area. Thank you!! ^__^
I do have another question, though. ^__^ I recently picked up a Gamestop PlayStation analog controller to use in my pad. A programmer who's helping us build the pad coded a little button tester so we can make sure all the buttons are working, and we discovered that right and left cannot be hit at the same time, and up and down have the same problem. Any idea on what we can do? ^^ Any help is appreciated. |
have you tested it with a Psx-PC adaptor or a small "chipset" with LCD displying the button (a programed chipset by the other guy ?.. lol) ?
If it the adaptor.. its probaly a non-ddr adaptor.
Boom adaptor suCK ! (no ** !) I bought one of those crap and lost 15 $ .... poopy adfaptor. But I reused it (the female plug) to build a homemade one _________________
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
marsman57 Trick Member
Joined: 16 Jul 2002 Location: North Augusta/Columbia, SC |
677. Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2003 10:12 am Post subject: Re: Metal Braces/Brackets |
|
|
Thrawn wrote: | Is there any cheaper alternative to the 2" stanley brackets?
They get a little expensive buying them for both pads, can you get cheaper ones online or at some store? I looked a little but couldn't find anything except at the actual ddr site, which doesnt seem to want to sell them (but prices them at $0.90). |
Me and my friend Matt used like 10-25 cent hurricane ties for the outside on the pad we built. It works decently, but it it is not as good as Stanley brackets. I still recommend the brackets for the center parts though because we had a hurricane tie idea those, and... it failed miserably.
nekomi-chan wrote: | I do have another question, though. ^__^ I recently picked up a Gamestop PlayStation analog controller to use in my pad. A programmer who's helping us build the pad coded a little button tester so we can make sure all the buttons are working, and we discovered that right and left cannot be hit at the same time, and up and down have the same problem. Any idea on what we can do? ^^ Any help is appreciated. |
This isn't a problem with the controller or the circuit, it's a flaw in how d-pads are built. Once you get in the controller you can see what I'm talking about, but it's impossible to hit both left and right on a controller at the same time because the pad can't push down in opposite directions at once, no contact is made. Once you build your pad though it can hit both at once so it will work fine. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
xbillxdt Basic Member
Joined: 14 Jun 2003 Location: buffalo, ny |
678. Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2003 4:21 pm Post subject: push buttons for control box |
|
|
okay im new here and ive read alot of the posts on here but most of them are the smae things over and over.. so i skipped a bunch and heres my deal:
this week my nephews and i are building metal pads ddrhomepad style but i wanna make a little control box too and use pushbuttons for X, O, START and SELECT.. so i found these here http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F010%5F007%5F001%5F000&product%5Fid=275%2D1556#
those like what i need. i guess what im trying to say is how would i wire up the pushbuttons and what else would i need and all that?? _________________
frick you, i came to mosh |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Andreq Trick Member
Joined: 11 Apr 2003 Location: Quebec foreva |
679. Posted: Sat Jun 14, 2003 6:04 pm Post subject: Re: push buttons for control box |
|
|
damn.... i didnt read here and i posted a reply in your other thread
sry Remy _________________
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
|