My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

Andreq · Trick Member Joined: 11 Apr 2003 Location: Quebec foreva

THe controller are frying becauseof the static when you play on acrylic panel. Acrylic (Lucite, plexiglass) "absorb" some static and sometime it go trough the wire and to the controller so it fry.

But sony controller are not frying as I read here.... less frying
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My dance dance revolution metal pad pictures and stuffs : http://membres.lycos.fr/csclanbef/DDR/

sokochan · Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2003 9:19 am Post subject:

Thats it!!!

OMG ... I thought it was something all sophisticated and hard to remedy ... Phew

Thank you

mogbert · Basic Member Joined: 24 Apr 2003

Please, a little help here!

1. I need to know where I can up load some pictures of my pad making steps (I don't know anything about web hosts, I just want a free one or someone who will host them for me, or something...)

2. I need to know, besides the 4 arrows, what other 3 buttons would be helpful to have on the pad? (ex: x,o, start; /_\, [], Select; ect...)

3. Just curious, some pads have 2 diagonal arrows on them, what are they for?

.simgar · Basic Member Joined: 28 Apr 2003 Location: Atlanta, GA

.simgar · Basic Member Joined: 28 Apr 2003 Location: Atlanta, GA

I'm about to solder a controller for my DDR pad..alot of people use MadCatz..but I was wondering if I could solder a dual shock psx controller. I'm pretty sure it won't make any difference other than scraping black stuff off and different solder points. anybody run into any problems while using the dual shock? just wonderin so I know whether to get out of the house again or just use what I have
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--.simgar

"Today fades away, but now is forever..choose the left or the right, the up or the down..just don't be afraid to make the step."

too much ddr? nah..feet aren't broken yet..
*snap* aww crap...too much ddr...

Goliath01364 · Trick Member Joined: 26 May 2003 Location: Lowell, MA

Ok I canno figure out for the life of my how to solder my controler. Ive looked at all the tutorials I can find but I still cannot figure out where the ground is. Here is a picture of my Super pad by performance.

Sorry about the picture quality but its the best I could do.

Another question I have is where do I drill the solder points? Am I actually drilling into the copper (the button) or what? If somone could lable this image I would be forever in your debt.

Oh if you live in Massachusetts I found a place that will sell you 2" stanley corner brackets at 16 for $11.00 and a sheetmetal place that will cut all your pieces and supply the sheetmetal for $4.00
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I don't play DDR......I destroy it....

Andreq · Trick Member Joined: 11 Apr 2003 Location: Quebec foreva

KrakenGuy · Trick Member Joined: 03 Feb 2002 Location: Edmonton

Dude, thats pretty sad, I can see your ground already. This was the exact same controller I think I had. I'd modify the picture to show you where your ground is on the Up, Down, Left and Right part of the pad but I don't have a reliable server to show you. I will try...

Up Button - Ground is the gold peice on the left
Right Button - Ground is the gold peice on the top
Left Button - Ground is the gold peice on the top
Down Button - Ground is the gold peice on the left

Hopefully you understand what exactly I just said, if not than, meh.

Goliath01364 · Trick Member Joined: 26 May 2003 Location: Lowell, MA

Heh You guys rock!

Goliath01364 · Trick Member Joined: 26 May 2003 Location: Lowell, MA

Erm one more question, I just want to double check before I drill. Am I drilling exactly where those red and blue dotes are? (Kind of a dumb question but I want to be sure)
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I don't play DDR......I destroy it....

Weston · Trick Member Joined: 17 Feb 2003 Location: Minnesota

I would drill to the side of them, off of the copper circuit. This will allow you to have a larger copper area to solder the wires to.

marsman57 · Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2003 1:13 pm Post subject:

Luckily, the controller I used had holes in it already because of how the D-pad was set up and also from where it was mounted. I removed one piece of plastic from the controller and was able to get away with building it with absolutely no drilling on the board

sokochan · Posted: Tue Jun 10, 2003 1:44 pm Post subject:

Why do you drill again? Is it just so the wires have more support and don't rip off?

Also I live in Massachusettes and I'd LOVE to know where you got the stuff for so cheap. I was gonna try my local Vo Tech School but if you know a place that is cheaper than

Goliath01364 · Trick Member Joined: 26 May 2003 Location: Lowell, MA

ERmmm I got another question. do I need to solder a wire to the ground in between the up and left button as well? If so Do I run that wire to both directional buttons or just one?

As for getting cheap parts in MA

2" corner braces can be found at a place called Gardner Screw in Gardner MA.
Sheet Metal at W.T. Bolduc & Son CO., INC. - Orange MA (978 544 6172)

You can also get a wide variety of Plexiglass, Lexen etc at Homedepot in Lemonster ($29.99 for ok stuff) (49.99 for lexen)
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I don't play DDR......I destroy it....

Andreq · Trick Member Joined: 11 Apr 2003 Location: Quebec foreva

Goliath01364 · Trick Member Joined: 26 May 2003 Location: Lowell, MA

AlternateReality · Trick Member Joined: 16 Feb 2003

I need some advice.

It's been awhile since I posted here. I built a wicked metal DDR pad. It's a Riptide/Patster style, where the buttons have sheet metal glued to them, which comes down and contacts a number of screws located in the wooden frame underneath each button. There is a cavity in the center to allow for lighting.

So here's the problem: How the heck do you get that sheet metal to stay on the bottom of the acrylic buttons?!

My pad works great for about 20-30 games. Each time a button makes contact, slight indentations are made in the sheet metal that's on the acrylic. Eventually, these indentations get large enough to where they are pushing on the acrylic. This causes the sheet metal to loosen from the acrylic, resulting in a button that sticks on. So I'm constantly unscrewing the buttons and redoing the sheet metal contacts, which results in a pad that, quite frankly, doesn't get used very often. I feel like I wasted all that time, money, and effort, because the damn thing requires significant maintenance after just a couple of hours worth of gameplay.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
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- AlternateReality

Andreq · Trick Member Joined: 11 Apr 2003 Location: Quebec foreva

PHSwarrior · Basic Member Joined: 10 Jun 2003 Location: Tucson, AZ

Im interested in building Patsters dance pad, Ive been to his website and ive dowlaoded the adding lights tutorial, does anybody have any info regarding the costruction process or does anybody know Patstres E-mail address? It would help me a tremendous amount if somenone could please provide some information about the pad or a tutorial of how to make the pad or if someone has way of getting hold of Patser i would greatly appreciate the help given, Thanxy the way if this post is locked please e-mail me [email protected]

P.S.- if Patster himself reads this, that pad is the coolest thing ive ever seen, good job man
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Drum-Line what! PHS 2003

Istari Asuka · Trick Member Joined: 27 Oct 2002 Location: Tucson, AZ

Hey, it's basically just a riptide pad, but with the wood placed so that the tall width goes vertically (extra room for lights). The rest of it I'm sure (as Patster himself has said), you can figure out yourself, if you examine his pics and the Riptide pics. The backbar is the only thing i could see you needing his help for.

In other words, you can probably figure it out. If you need help, PM Patster, or something.

P.S. --Pueblo High School? I'm in Tucson too, and go to Foothills.