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Xeon Transponder
Trick Member
Joined: 03 Mar 2003
Location: The moon |
600.  Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2003 1:16 pm Post subject: |
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no, the wood triangles are cut out of 3/4 plywood. the plexiglass is .25 each so that makes it 1/2 inch.
.75 - .5 leaves us with .25 for the connections
those screws are 1/8 or .125 and the flat braces are 1/16 or .0625
therfore leaving 1/16 for panel travel. it works perfectly!!!
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Andreq
Trick Member
Joined: 11 Apr 2003
Location: Quebec foreva |
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AcidBurnISU
Trick Member
Joined: 31 May 2003
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| 602. Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2003 4:01 pm Post subject: |
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| Ok, on Rip Tide's pad, does anyone have the graphics he used for his arrows? Those are really awesome, and I would love to have them. |
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Andreq
Trick Member
Joined: 11 Apr 2003
Location: Quebec foreva |
| 603. Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2003 5:31 pm Post subject: |
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| AcidBurnISU wrote: | | Ok, on Rip Tide's pad, does anyone have the graphics he used for his arrows? Those are really awesome, and I would love to have them. |
Its on his website
www.digitaltorque.com/mydancepad/
if you want the little "border".... just do it on photoshop or.....something else.. its really easy
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-joe-
Trick Member
Joined: 08 Jan 2003
Location: lv |
| 604. Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2003 7:07 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks!
by the way, im sorrry about the 5 posts. My computer was being retarted and i didnt know it was posting and kept submiting, my bad
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good times, good times. |
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Andreq
Trick Member
Joined: 11 Apr 2003
Location: Quebec foreva |
| 605. Posted: Sun Jun 01, 2003 7:42 pm Post subject: |
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| -Joe- wrote: | Thanks!
by the way, im sorrry about the 5 posts. My computer was being retarted and i didnt know it was posting and kept submiting, my bad |
I got the same problem on the soft pad post hehe 7 post I think... damn it was like "mail server not....."
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tr4il
Trick Member
Joined: 03 Dec 2002
Location: Jerz |
| 606. Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2003 8:03 am Post subject: |
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Andreq: Where do you bring plans to have those made and how much does it cost?
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NY/NJ
MASSystems Clone - 1 2
" TerTerBox" For DDR Home Pads
p.s. my avatar owns yours |
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Andreq
Trick Member
Joined: 11 Apr 2003
Location: Quebec foreva |
| 607. Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2003 8:36 am Post subject: |
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| tr4il wrote: | | Andreq: Where do you bring plans to have those made and how much does it cost? |
I got them made in a store near my house... its not a national store I think its jsute a place were they do thing with metal... I dont really know the name because its my father that went there
price : 50$ CAN for the 16 corners braces
almost $30 US
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MoonJihad
Basic Member
Joined: 08 Oct 2002
Location: Granby, Québec |
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Zarcom
Trick Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2003
Location: nowhere to be found. |
| 609. Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2003 3:50 pm Post subject: |
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I havnt really soldered before, but after I solder the wire onto the metal, shoudl I at least put tape on it, becuase I understand that once after you solder a wire, it basically foirms a hard blob, but yet it still works towards buttons.
anyway, should I get some really hard tape or will duck tape work? |
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Zarcom
Trick Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2003
Location: nowhere to be found. |
| 610. Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2003 7:12 pm Post subject: |
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come on guys, I frick need help here, I didnt spend 130 bucks on parts just to wait 150000000000 centuries for, I really need to know the answer to the question I just previously posted.
thans in advance. |
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-joe-
Trick Member
Joined: 08 Jan 2003
Location: lv |
| 611. Posted: Mon Jun 02, 2003 7:20 pm Post subject: |
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| The_Stick| wrote: | come on guys, I frick need help here, I didnt spend 130 bucks on parts just to wait 150000000000 centuries for, I really need to know the answer to the question I just previously posted.
thans in advance. |
I think that if your good with tools and have enough patience and time, then make it. If you dont like replacing your pad when it fails, putting it together properly, buy a metal one
by the way, make a blue beefman/riptide/zottower dance pad, there better 
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NinjaFK
Basic Member
Joined: 04 May 2003
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| 612. Posted: Tue Jun 03, 2003 12:10 pm Post subject: |
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| I had a question for the professionals here. Well, I had an idea. I just bought this weatherstripping which is like tubular... I replaced all the weatherstripping in my pad with this stuff, and it is more responsive than ever. But my idea for a new pad is to use the inside of the weatherstripping for the contacts... What do you guys think if I were to buy some foil tape, put two piece in it, a piece at the top and a piece at the bottom for my contacts... just wondering if anyone has tried it or had any comments on it. I'm going to try it unless someone has tried and it hasn't worked. |
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Zarcom
Trick Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2003
Location: nowhere to be found. |
| 613. Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2003 2:54 am Post subject: |
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lol since I have pretty strong legs, I think I will do riptides design again, thank god I know what I did wrong, lol I didnt add supports so the whole thing caved in while I was playing max300.
Just in case if anybody wants to know, use ANY of ddrhp/riptide/zottower/beefman method on contacts and they all still work, I tried them all and they work fine, I just screw up like crazy when it comes to tools lol. Also, those designs work wellon freeze arrows.
I passed max300 with a C as well lol but I didnt have any printscreen softwre isntalled.
anywayz, back to hell.... err I mean fixing my pad.
see yaz bye. |
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-joe-
Trick Member
Joined: 08 Jan 2003
Location: lv |
| 614. Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2003 8:09 am Post subject: |
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| The_Stick| wrote: | lol since I have pretty strong legs, I think I will do riptides design again, thank god I know what I did wrong, lol I didnt add supports so the whole thing caved in while I was playing max300.
Just in case if anybody wants to know, use ANY of ddrhp/riptide/zottower/beefman method on contacts and they all still work, I tried them all and they work fine, I just screw up like crazy when it comes to tools lol. Also, those designs work wellon freeze arrows.
I passed max300 with a C as well lol but I didnt have any printscreen softwre isntalled.
anywayz, back to hell.... err I mean fixing my pad.
see yaz bye. |
good luck with ur pad
By the way, you dont need to install print screen software. Just press the print screen button (next to F12) and then go in photoshop, fireworks, paint, word or whatever other pic program out there and click edit>paste
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mogbert
Basic Member
Joined: 24 Apr 2003
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| 615. Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2003 8:15 am Post subject: |
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Well, I have gotten in the assortment of switches that I ordered, and I have descided on the 688-SKHHPK (www.mouser.com).
It has a lifetime of 1,000,000 presses and a price of $0.26. So for about $4 you can have one on each side of each arrow. Using foam rubber, installing them should be a snap, but if you are using weather stripping, you would have to come up with a way to do it yourself.
I have been taking a few pictures of my pad, and how I'm building it, so if I can find a website to upload it to when I'm done, I'll pass my design on.
Although, I have changed the focus from making a dirt cheap pad with adjustable sensitivity, to making a super sensitive, super strong (although heavy) pad that looks real good. I'm still cutting corners on things like the metal brackets. Rather then spending $25 - $35 dollars on them, I bought a bar of aluminum and cut triangles about 1.5" on the shortsides. Since my design doesn require to be screwed in on the sides, corner backets would be a waste. I just need to keep the plexiglass down. |
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-joe-
Trick Member
Joined: 08 Jan 2003
Location: lv |
| 616. Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2003 11:58 am Post subject: |
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| mogbert wrote: | Well, I have gotten in the assortment of switches that I ordered, and I have descided on the 688-SKHHPK (www.mouser.com).
It has a lifetime of 1,000,000 presses and a price of $0.26. So for about $4 you can have one on each side of each arrow. Using foam rubber, installing them should be a snap, but if you are using weather stripping, you would have to come up with a way to do it yourself.
I have been taking a few pictures of my pad, and how I'm building it, so if I can find a website to upload it to when I'm done, I'll pass my design on.
Although, I have changed the focus from making a dirt cheap pad with adjustable sensitivity, to making a super sensitive, super strong (although heavy) pad that looks real good. I'm still cutting corners on things like the metal brackets. Rather then spending $25 - $35 dollars on them, I bought a bar of aluminum and cut triangles about 1.5" on the shortsides. Since my design doesn require to be screwed in on the sides, corner backets would be a waste. I just need to keep the plexiglass down. |
sounds awesome, i wanna c those pics!!!!!
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BluemeanieTrader
Trick Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2003
Location: NY |
| 617. Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2003 2:08 pm Post subject: |
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Here's my situation...
My pad worked perfectly...
I made a new setup in the garage, moved my pad, and got a mad catz 7ft extension cable..
Plug in the pad to play and all the arrows ghost step...sometime extremly bad...
I thought it may be the madcatz cable so i tried it without it, same thing..
I took the arrows off one at a time, checked all the connections with a continuity tester....added a little more weather stripping...
Same thing, still ghost stepping...
Took off an arrow panel with the game still running, bam, ghost stepping with no connections touched, WTF??????
Is the burned out controller symptom, what do ya think caused it, the move, or the madcatz extension cable....
Thanks
-Blue |
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-joe-
Trick Member
Joined: 08 Jan 2003
Location: lv |
| 618. Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2003 8:04 pm Post subject: |
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| BluemeanieTrader wrote: | Here's my situation...
My pad worked perfectly...
I made a new setup in the garage, moved my pad, and got a mad catz 7ft extension cable..
Plug in the pad to play and all the arrows ghost step...sometime extremly bad...
I thought it may be the madcatz cable so i tried it without it, same thing..
I took the arrows off one at a time, checked all the connections with a continuity tester....added a little more weather stripping...
Same thing, still ghost stepping...
Took off an arrow panel with the game still running, bam, ghost stepping with no connections touched, WTF??????
Is the burned out controller symptom, what do ya think caused it, the move, or the madcatz extension cable....
Thanks
-Blue |
Im sorry to say, but controllers most likely fried. Just because you said that when the arrows werent even close, and it was still ghost stepping, that gave it away. Im also going out on a limb and guessing it was not a sony controller because im telling you, they are very hard to fry!
my only guess is if it was a mad catz controller, they fry out of no where, when i had mine, it fried when i put my 5 metal panels to the frame, lol
Just double check the controller board to make sure no wires came undone from the solder, mabey the move knocked some wires loose?
by the way, howcome u needed a 7 foot extension cable?
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Patster
Trick Member
Joined: 03 Mar 2002
Location: Mount Prospect, Illinois |
| 619. Posted: Wed Jun 04, 2003 8:25 pm Post subject: |
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| muniac007 wrote: | | Paster: What do you use to secure your trick bar? |
The copper pipe is inserted into a matching-size hole for a tight and secure fit. I'm working on improving the design.
| mogbert wrote: | Well, I have gotten in the assortment of switches that I ordered, and I have descided on the 688-SKHHPK (www.mouser.com).
It has a lifetime of 1,000,000 presses and a price of $0.26. So for about $4 you can have one on each side of each arrow. Using foam rubber, installing them should be a snap, but if you are using weather stripping, you would have to come up with a way to do it yourself. |
I have a few comments regarding those tact switches:
1. The "travel" is only .25mm. This means that the distance the button moves when you push on it will be one-quarter-of-a-millimeter. That's pretty small and if you are using 4 per arrow panel, it'll be a pain in the a** to get everything level and just right.
2. What are you going to mount the tact switches on? Those 688-SKHHPK's are PCB mount, but if you aren't going to mount them on a PCB, are you going to bend the legs?
3. Although the operating life is stated to be (*said in a Dr. Evil voice with pinky at mouth*) 1 million operations, it will probably break long before that. A tact switch wasn't meant to support or be placed underneath as much weight as will be seen by a ddr arrow panel.
This seems to be the one case where technology will not triumph over ingenuity. Simple is better. I recommend ddrhomepad's sheetmetal contacts or my screw with sheetmetal contact modification. I recommend that you forget trying to implement microswitches since they probably won't last as long as you think they will, and when they do wear out, they are more difficult to replace. I tried the microswitch design many moons ago and even though the switches I used were rated for (*said in a Dr. Evil voice with pinky at mouth*) 1 million operations, they didn't last more than 2 days! The microswitches also made a really annoying "clicking" noise that would have eventually driven me insane!  Good luck, though, if you plan on trying to use them anyway. |
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