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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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-joe-
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540. PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2003 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BluemeanieTrader wrote:
Joe:

i reccomend using copper for the contacts that are glued to the back of your plexi....thats what i use...Copper is nice and soft...Between myself and friends we've must have spent near 200 hours on the pad on heavy without any problem, the mention of copper tape a few post back seems like another option.
as far as the 1 screw goes, why aren't you just getting another one at the local hardware store????

-Blue


copper will be too soft. My problem is the heads of the screws in the braces are demoloshing the METAL ground contacts. I keep removing screws because i guess one screw may be a TAD bit higher than the side screw next to it and thats whats causing the metal to dent and scratch.

The screws i am using are the half inch screws from the stanley corner brackets. Mabey there too small, r mabey the heads of them are whats killing the metal. On that one brace, i have 1 screw because the rest of the metal is so dented that it makes HORIBLE contact with the heads of the screws.


What i plan on doing is:

Buying a box of 1 1/4 dry wall screws
getting 16 " 22 gague" sheet metal squares (i think my metal may be too thin now?)
instead of epoxying the contacts, im using adhesive spray

(What if i get screws that screw into the braces and make them totally flush with the braces?)

It seems that all my pads i built mess up after weeks. My ddr homepad and my beefman pad. They worked AWESOME for the first 3 weeks, (the ddr home pad lasted like 5 days... haha) but then they crap out.

I guess it just requires time and patience, 2 things im running out of. I have 5 more days of high school, i definately dont want to be working on dance pads in the summer E13.gif


ANY help/comments/suggestions are 100% welcome
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-joe-
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541. PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2003 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZotTower wrote:
I have new pictures up from today and yesterday of my pad building process. Theres a pic of the PS1 circuit board (with drilled holes where I am going to solder), some pics on how to transform a ps1 controller's cable so that it can be fit into an ethernet jack, completed arrow panels, underside of arrow panels, etc.

Take a look:

http://student.seas.gwu.edu/~zottower/DDR%20Pad/



Hey, sweet looking pad. Its coming out GREAT!

I cant tell. are you using tap switches for your design? Or are you just gunna have the controller to press x o select etc...

Also, i see your only using 2 screws per brace. What kind of screws are you using for that?

and,,, how many gagues is your ground contact sheet metal?

Thanks
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MoonJihad
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542. PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2003 5:28 am    Post subject: Copper tape Reply with quote

lookout321 wrote:
COPPER TAPE, which we often used for constructing Slot Racing tracks. The copper tape is then connected to the wire from the Ground of the controller. Any screw around the perimeter of the arrow base that touches the copper tape will then trigger the arrow, It is soooo sensitive. And the copper tape conducts the electricity just like wire, needs no soldering to steel plates, and no steel plates to be affixed to the bottom of the Plexiglass. Working great!


Looks nice. What kind of store carries that? Do I just pop in at the hardware store and ask for it or do I need to go to a specialty store?
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KrakenGuy
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543. PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2003 6:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zottower, your going to have an awesome pad when yours is done. I need to fix my sheet metal I think, I got like 15 guage sheet metal or something, all I know is that what I have now is way to thick. Its sooo hard to bend the sheet metal, so I am going to replace all 5 panels, and I think I will decide to get stainless steel cause the stuff I have now is like rusting just from a little bit of heat and a little bit of wiped down water. Yeah...
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ZotTower
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544. PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2003 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My sheet metal on the bottom of the panels for ground is 26 guage i think. It's the same kind I used to cover the plywood panels.

But today I ran into some trouble and I'm not sure what to do. I soldered the wires to my controller (dripping some molten solder on my finger at one point...OUCH) and it works, but not very well. (I'm only done with one side by the way). I played a few songs and I was getting B's on ones I normally AA. It seemed that it wasn't being very responsive sometimes (like some steps that I think should be Perfect are Good), and it had a hell of a hard time anytime quick series of 16th notes came up. There's no way it'd be able to handle MAX300 or anything really fast.

I also have minor complaints about how I think the arrow panels move down a little bit too much. I also think it's on the noisy side.

I am going to put the other 2 screws in the corner braces (so each will have 4, and see if that helps any). If anybody has any ideas, or notices anything that doesn't look good in my pictures - please tell me if you have any advice.
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lookout321
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545. PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2003 3:36 pm    Post subject: Copper tape Reply with quote

You can actually find copper tape in various sizes in almost any Stained Glass store, as this is a major component in stained glass work.
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PureDynamo
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546. PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2003 5:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have quick question, what kind of controller do you guys recommend using for wiring the pad, and what gauge wire do you guys use.
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krillin2121
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547. PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2003 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PureDynamo wrote:
I have quick question, what kind of controller do you guys recommend using for wiring the pad, and what gauge wire do you guys use.


Use a Sony PS1 controller and use Cat5 wires to solder the controller and the pad. The Sony controller works like a charm, and Cat5 should be the right gauge that you're looking for.
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Xeon Transponder
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548. PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2003 6:10 pm    Post subject: re: Reply with quote

omg tower of zot, i am having the EXACT same problem, i tried max 300 today and failed within the first 20 seconds, i was like wait, thats not right. Iplayed it on my old one (i call it a hometide pad) and got a B. Major problem. Sometimes the arrows dont register, one of the panels sticks, they move up and down tooo much and it is loud as all hell. i have my pad in the basement and when i play, my parents can hear it outside. I think i might have to change this one to my "hometide" design also. But dont worry beef, ill still make a site for you, i just need pics of every step. Well, i gotta go, im going to the arcade yo.
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MoonJihad
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549. PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2003 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have almost finished the design for my platform woohoo. Tomorrow I raid the arcade for measurements and start making plans and part lists! Yay!

Until then, chew on this :
http://moonjihad.useperl.net/plateforme-iso-temporaire.pdf
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-joe-
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550. PostPosted: Mon May 26, 2003 7:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nice brackets. http://www.channelbeat.com/products/parts/dance_dance_revolution_parts/116.html

The screws are further back so if you did the riptide beefman idea, you can have a much bigger lip

and there 50 cents a bracket
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Xeon Transponder
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551. PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2003 9:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

-Joe- wrote:
nice brackets. http://www.channelbeat.com/products/parts/dance_dance_revolution_parts/116.html

The screws are further back so if you did the riptide beefman idea, you can have a much bigger lip

and there 50 cents a bracket


yeah, only 50 cents a bracket but you'd need to buy 400 of em since channel beat has a 200 dollar minimum order. goog.gif
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statikeffeck
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552. PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2003 6:13 pm    Post subject: Ethernet Wires Reply with quote

ZotTower wrote:
...some pics on how to transform a ps1 controller's cable so that it can be fit into an ethernet jack...

Take a look:

http://student.seas.gwu.edu/~zottower/DDR%20Pad/


That is a great idea to make the playstation cord easily disconnectable. You can simply cut the playstation cord , but a jack on each end, then re-combine it with a coupler. Right?
What I am wondering about is the Braided copper colored wire that is all over inside of the playstation cable. This seems like a "9th" wire, and will not fit into the ethernet jack. What is this wire for, and is it alright to not connect it?
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shunro
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553. PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2003 6:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

how do you make a 8 button metal pad?
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statikeffeck
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554. PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2003 6:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

shunro wrote:
how do you make a 8 button metal pad?


Too may answers to this question. Are you assuming a metal pad should only have 4 buttons (the four arrows)? Some people add 4 more radioshack style pushbuttons for Start, Select, Circle, and X.
If you are talking about having the 4 standard arrow panels PLUS the other 4 panels in the corners being buttons, well you just use do the same process to create a panel button as you do for the standard arrows.

and by the way, every playstation cord has 8 wires (plus the braided copper which I have yet to figure out). I'm talking about the wire between the actual controller and the end plug. [/b]
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marsman57
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555. PostPosted: Tue May 27, 2003 8:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The braided copper is probably just some sort of shield wire...
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muniac007
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556. PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2003 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does Paster keep his design to himself or does he give actual directions to build the whole pad? E19.gif I want to Build his design but I cant find actual directions frust.gif can someone help me?
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krillin2121
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557. PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2003 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

muniac007 wrote:
Does Paster keep his design to himself or does he give actual directions to build the whole pad? E19.gif I want to Build his design but I cant find actual directions frust.gif can someone help me?


I've been wondering this myself...
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muniac007
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558. PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2003 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Does anyone know where I can get a hold of paster so I can ask him for directions? riiight.gif
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Xeon Transponder
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559. PostPosted: Wed May 28, 2003 9:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

instead of asking patster for his design, which had no point in making instructions for, why dont you read the riptide design instructions, then look at the patster pictures and figure out how to do it. The only difference between the two is the placement of the contact screws and that patster has his 2X4's on their side so his design is 5 inches tall instead of three. He did this so he would have space for the micro switches. Now PLEASE stop flooding this thread.
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