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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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Tomo-kun AKA s1
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460. PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2003 11:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has anybody tried to put wheels on the bottom, like the arcade pads? im just wondering caus if anybody has tried it, Dose it role around as if your on a soft pad?
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Andreq
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461. PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2003 1:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

s1400mhz wrote:
Has anybody tried to put wheels on the bottom, like the arcade pads? im just wondering caus if anybody has tried it, Dose it role around as if your on a soft pad?


wheel ??... if you really want to transport it.. put some king of something.. to like... |¯¯¯| on the top (after the up arrow) of the pad I dont know the english word of it (its on a door... round.. lol)
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cjc312chunky
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462. PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2003 3:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You mean a handle? I was thinking more along the lines of straps on the underside so that i could roam the land with my pad like Gutts from Beserk.
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`pr0digy
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463. PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2003 4:36 pm    Post subject: Re: finish Reply with quote

Andreq wrote:

ill try to show make a nice plan and try it before I show it to you


Good luck with your light project mate, hope it works out well... Can't wait too see a plan if it works E1.gif
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PureDynamo
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464. PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2003 4:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Um, anyone know what points to solder on to for a soft pad controller box? Cause I want to use that instead of the normal PSX controller. Thanks in advance
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Andreq
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465. PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2003 5:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

PureDynamo wrote:
Um, anyone know what points to solder on to for a soft pad controller box? Cause I want to use that instead of the normal PSX controller. Thanks in advance


that what I used,

you have 10 small "rectangle" ok ??
and 1 big ??... 5 left to the big 5 right to the big



you must use (from left to right while the rectangles are on the top of the board)

1-no 2-no 3-yes 4-no 5-yes BIG-GROUND 6-yes 7-no 8-yes 9-no 10-no I dont really no the arrow of 3 5 6 8 but... that wasnt really a prob for me because i used a pc so i can map the button were i want...

but its like.... 3-left 5-up 6-down 8-right Ill try to find a link to the real graphic and wire point for this... i know i saw that before
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cjc312chunky
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466. PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2003 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, i just mutilated my soft pad and diagramed it's controm box...the only problem is... i dont know how to add a pic to my post. I dont have a website or anything that i can host it from. I will say this though the 11 connectors go:
1 Start
2 Circle
3 Right
4 Square
5 Up
Middle Ground
6 Down
7 Triangle
8 Right
9 X
10 Select

Remember, you are looking at it from the bottom, that's how i have it written up.[/img]
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Andreq
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467. PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2003 7:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was close hehe

my pad is like up arrow = down (and down = up)

right = left and left = right lol

but that not a prob its jsut button on the PC
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shanedudddy2
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468. PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2003 10:41 pm    Post subject: Please help me and my pad(if it can be called a pad) Reply with quote

Okay I have done pretty much the same design as DDRhomepad except I have used a PC controller to use on stepmania. I am wondering why my pad does double hits and hits for no particular reason. I have thought of pretty well everything and now I am even doughting my drivers. I have checked all the connections and it seems fine but it still does it. It`s not just one arrow either it`s nearlly all of them.
Anyway thanx for the help
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riptide
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469. PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2003 2:02 am    Post subject: Re: finish Reply with quote

Andreq wrote:
Yep finaly its done. look great !

I got some problem because of old peice of wood. but... its just like....it could look better, but it work as good as if its not (it look great but at some place no .. because of my 32~33in² wood peice

Ill try to put light tomorow (today work, tomorow fun !)

and a soemthing i found about transistor :

base go to evacuator directly ---------- this is the joystick "wire" with a button before the base
colector go to the avacuator (when base is going trough the transistor) -------- this is the "LED" + 9v (+ a resistor if needed jsut for the led not for the end of the evacuator) "wire"

yep - from joystick and - from 9v will be on the evacutator and yep it will go like that + from joysitck ------ transistor --------- - 9v but this isnt a problem because its not the same source of power so its not the same "electron" (sry if this is the work in french...) thats what a electronic freak guy said to me (hehe) and the - from the joystick will be atached to the evacuator too so it will make a "wire" (dont have the word in englsih for "circuit"...) and the ~3v from the joystick will jsut go trought is own "electron" and dont change from a bit.... this is own you can use a transistor as a relay what I found on the net : a transistor is a (can be use as a) relay without click and faster

ill try to show make a nice plan and try it before I show it to you


Uhm.... what?? E13.gif

Is that Franglais? Sorry, I'm just picking on ya.... I didn't follow that very well.
I'm guessing that evacuator = emitter.

Are you saying that the larger power source will not affect the controller's circuit at all even though they're both going to be connected to the same transistor?
There are a lot of different transistors with different power ratings, how are you choosing which to use?

You've basically got the same design as I have been working on, but I just don't know what kind of power rating the transistor will need. That's the only reason I haven't ordered my transistors by now.
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MoonJihad
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470. PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2003 6:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andreq wrote:
s1400mhz wrote:
Has anybody tried to put wheels on the bottom, like the arcade pads? im just wondering caus if anybody has tried it, Dose it role around as if your on a soft pad?


wheel ??... if you really want to transport it.. put some king of something.. to like... |¯¯¯| on the top (after the up arrow) of the pad I dont know the english word of it (its on a door... round.. lol)


[Edit : He meant a handle]

Une poignée ou une charnière?

Andreq, si tu as besoin d'aide avec l'anglais, je peux t'aider avec ça.


Last edited by MoonJihad on Sun May 18, 2003 7:36 am, edited 1 time in total
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Andreq
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471. PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2003 7:12 am    Post subject: lol Reply with quote

French : " jvoulais dire une poigné. c pas jpa bon en anglais mais c jsute ke jai jamais vraiment utiliser sa une poigné lol pi le traducteur de mon ami word ye poche (dsl si jecrit super mal jsuis presser) "

for riptide :

I figured out.. that it work... yep.... but...only on the arrow (the button seem to "triger" only a bit and shutdown after....this is on a old soft pad board)

it light up.... it really simple.... I was like "ill try to think about something realy hard to figure out and blablablalbal... no only like if I was using a relay but the 2 - are on the same pin .. the emitter (sry for evacuator lol)

im not sure if its the 2 - because i tryed very fast (no time) and it was like
+9v ---resitor----led--------colector (not sure of the word)
-9v---------------------------emitter
-~3v (from controller)-----arrow button------emitter
+---------base



something like that. Ill try to make it more simple because im really busy right now (paint ball game in a short)

jsut try it (if you have a old electronic kit its always good to try)

you plug like.... the 2negative(-) (+ the button) on the E +9v on the C ~+3v on the B

try it end look if the button are still trigering and if not.. change the + and - of the 9v (i did that and it work... something like that sry go2go !!!)

!!
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MoonJihad
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472. PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2003 7:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My friend and I have started making the plans for a DDR platform in SolidWorks 2003(we'll probably make the plans available within a few weeks). While doing so, we have uncovered a few questions :

Look at this picture of riptide's design. The wooden triangles are where the corner braces are going to be screwn into. My question is, would it be a good idea to instead put metallic (nuts? metal things that the screws hang on to, instead of eating through the wood when the screws are screwed in and out)
http://www.digitaltorque.com/mydancepad/?display=4%20-%20supports%20and%20switches%2F64005.jpg

For the corner braces, do you build them out of sheet metal or build them premade? If you buy them, are they expensive? Are they perfect for the job or do they require a modification of the pad design? What's the name for those and where can I find them in a hardware store? If I can get them done by someone who can work sheet metal, should I get them done as a custom job?

Also, we couldn't find dimensions for the backbar and its assembly. Does anybody knows what are the dimensions for it? I don't really feel like going to the arcade with a measuring tape and one of those things to measure pipes.

For the sensors, should I go with foam(weatherstripping) or silicon tubing? What are the pros and cons of both?

Also, I was wondering how much the plexiglass and metal cost you guys. I do not have a quote for the sheet metal, but for the plexiglass, our local hardware store gave us those prices(excluding tax) :
127$CAN[~93$USD] for a 8x4 4.5mm thick plexiglass sheet
163$CAN[~120$USD] for a 8x4 6mm thick plexiglass sheet
( http://www.xe.com for other currency exchanges )
I want to know whether they are reasonnable or if I should keep looking elsewhere.

As for the arrow designs, how do you get them to stick to the plexiglass? Do you just glue them to the plexiglass?

For those wondering, I am going to make the plans available on my website when they are going to be done(within a few weeks, I'll post a notification here when they'll be available). The question is, do you guys only want the plans to build it or do you want the SolidWorks files as well( so that one can view them using the SolidWorks viewer - http://www.solidworks.com/pages/services/downloads.html )?
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Andreq
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473. PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2003 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

MoonJihad wrote:

127$CAN[~93$USD] for a 8x4 4.5mm thick plexiglass sheet
163$CAN[~120$USD] for a 8x4 6mm thick plexiglass sheetquote]


I got mine at homedepot for 46$ CAN (.25cm thick)
and for the corner brace you can buy some on the net or go to ma ship with the plan (in my signature) and have them for 40$ CAN (50$ CANfor the net seller + shipping)
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tr4il
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474. PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2003 6:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

s1400mhz wrote:
Has anybody tried to put wheels on the bottom, like the arcade pads? im just wondering caus if anybody has tried it, Dose it role around as if your on a soft pad?

No but i was wondering if i should put those plunger-looking things in the corners...
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riptide
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475. PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2003 9:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

s1400mhz wrote:
Has anybody tried to put wheels on the bottom, like the arcade pads? im just wondering caus if anybody has tried it, Dose it role around as if your on a soft pad?


If I were to attempt it, I would do two things. The first would be to make sure that the wheels you get have the ability to lock so they won't turn. The second would be to get adjustable feet as well as the wheels. This way you can lower the feet to give extra friction when you're playing, and raise the feet to allow the wheels to roll when you're going to move the pad.
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My pad design: http://www.wubros.com/ddrpad/
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riptide
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476. PostPosted: Sun May 18, 2003 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

s1400mhz wrote:
Has anybody tried to put wheels on the bottom, like the arcade pads? im just wondering caus if anybody has tried it, Dose it role around as if your on a soft pad?


If I were to attempt it, I would do two things. The first would be to make sure that the wheels you get have the ability to lock so they won't turn. The second would be to get adjustable feet as well as the wheels. This way you can lower the feet to give extra friction when you're playing, and raise the feet to allow the wheels to roll when you're going to move the pad.
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riptide (at) digitaltorque (dot) com

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My pad design: http://www.wubros.com/ddrpad/
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tr4il
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477. PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2003 8:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finished the adjusting the old skool riptide to the new age beefman and its godly... ::runs back to max2::

Now that I think about it I have been through a lot of pad building...(look below)

First Pad
First Arrow Wells

Regular Riptide Pad

Most Current = Riptide Base + Beefman Arrows
Center Square on newest
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-joe-
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478. PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2003 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tr4il wrote:
I finished the adjusting the old skool riptide to the new age beefman and its godly... ::runs back to max2::

Now that I think about it I have been through a lot of pad building...(look below)

First Pad
First Arrow Wells

Regular Riptide Pad

Most Current = Riptide Base + Beefman Arrows
Center Square on newest


sweet. looks nice!

question, whats that thingy in the middle of the pad in this pic http://img.ranchoweb.com/images/tr4il/centersquare.jpg

i like how your sheet metal looks. Kinda dull, mines like freaking chrome like a mirror, i hate it, it looks dumb. but in time it will get dull
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tr4il
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479. PostPosted: Mon May 19, 2003 1:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

-Joe- wrote:

sweet. looks nice!

question, whats that thingy in the middle of the pad in this pic http://img.ranchoweb.com/images/tr4il/centersquare.jpg

i like how your sheet metal looks. Kinda dull, mines like freaking chrome like a mirror, i hate it, it looks dumb. but in time it will get dull

Thanks man. I'll take actual pics of the whole pad later. I had some but lost em. The thing is the middle is called a barrier strip aka a bridge. It creates a barrier between the positions to help protect accidental contact and short circuits. I wired all of the arrow wells to one side and then cat5 to the oppsite side which exits the pad and enters my TerTerBox.

Barrier Strip Catalog #: 274-659 at RadioShack
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Last edited by tr4il on Mon May 19, 2003 6:25 pm, edited 3 times in total
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