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My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)
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krillin2121
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Joined: 06 May 2003
Location: Wisconsin
440. PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2003 2:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Munkeyd00d wrote:
I have a problem. I replaced the buttons on my pad, and printed out the button art. It seems to be to small to fit the button. Any suggestions on how to make it bigger? Thanks!


Well im assuming your printing it on an 8 1/2 X 11 sheet of paper, and if thats the case, your paper size in your printer isnt large enough for the buttons.

you can either get bigger paper, like the size of the button or larger, then re-print the graphics (depending whether or not your printer can hold larger pieces of paper, but most do), or you can save the button graphics to a disk, take them to a CopyMax or Kinkos or some place like that and have them open the files and print them on big paper for you.

hope this helped! happy.gif
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Andreq
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441. PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2003 4:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Munkeyd00d wrote:
I have a problem. I replaced the buttons on my pad, and printed out the button art. It seems to be to small to fit the button. Any suggestions on how to make it bigger? Thanks!


print them to the size of your arrow (11" by 11" for me)
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-joe-
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442. PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2003 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Munkeyd00d wrote:
I have a problem. I replaced the buttons on my pad, and printed out the button art. It seems to be to small to fit the button. Any suggestions on how to make it bigger? Thanks!



Use a sharpie marker and color the sides of the plexiglass where there is a gap. Use a black sharpie also (obviosly...)
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Andreq
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443. PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2003 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1 arrow and a joypad (PC) soldering and my pad is done !!!!!!

I did a electronic plan that use transistor for the light, when ill have my pc joypad (tomorow.. today.. but after sleep haha) ill try to make it work with it.

transistor = relay without "clic" and faster (what I found)

Some problem during construction :

1. the damn edge of the sheet metal (got lots pain for nothing !)
2. putting my srew at 1/8 (this is because im using 1/4 plexi) wasnt really hard but, wiring was a ****** job because of the low space under the srew
3. putting arrow graphic whit double side tape : its gluing to much !!! not removable at all .. and if I want to move it, its scraping my graphic (can print other.. but.. )
4. waiting for a controler (I want it !!!!!!! biggrin.gif)
5. question : using my soft dance pad control box (friend cant play now..) or anoher joystick (PC or PSX) .... finaly a PC joystick/an ultra bright led (my firend have a old joystick and he want a ultra bright led and I have 20)
6. finding a damn store near this small city (22000 peoples ...wow..)
7. stoping writing problem(kidding)

ill try to finsih it tomorow after work (9pm to 0h00)
if not.. ill finish it fryday after going to cinema for the matrix 2 (MOUAHAHAHAH)

have a nice day (that sound great before going to bed)
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BluemeanieTrader
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444. PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2003 2:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kinko's, office max, etc....
they can pint them on an 11x17 sheet of paper...
take yer disc of pics, have them resize em to 10 3/4 x 10 3/4
total cost should be around 10 bucks...

-Blue
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cjc312chunky
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445. PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2003 3:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has anyone ever tried to mutilate a soft pad for the wires that attach to the sensors? It seems like it's be easier that soldering to a controller. You could even attach the select and start to cheap radio shack buttons and glue them to the side, probably saving loads of time.
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krillin2121
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446. PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2003 4:05 am    Post subject: sorry Reply with quote

I would just like to say that if any of you were downloading any of RipTide's videos from me yesterday or last night, and if the download kept randomly canceling or disconnecting, it was because my computer froze several times, and it took me a while to get it stable again (after about 6 restarts). Its fine now, but sorry about yesterday riiight.gif
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tr4il
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447. PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2003 12:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

what do you think would work best for PC playing:

1. psx controller to a levelsix psx2usb convertor

2. a regular PC controller with usb put into the pad (If I was to do this what PC controller would you guys suggest was the best)
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ZotTower
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448. PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2003 1:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I finally get to build my doubles pad next week since I'm going home. This page has tons of links to pictures of peoples pads, and some of them have instructions....

http://www.angelfire.com/d20/ddrhomepad/padbuilders.html

There is some really useful information on all these pages so go check them out.
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Andreq
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449. PostPosted: Thu May 15, 2003 8:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fnish ! (almost)

All I need to do is to wire the PC joystick (that plug into the joystick plug of a pc.. yep !)ill use 4 button on the 12 of it hehe (not the arrow because of the "axes")

tomorow ill have my joystick (damn friend didnt bring it today)

should be finish around 9h30 pm (after the matrix 2) hehe

sleeptime for me now !!! ill show you my plan for led with transistor if it work .. sunday
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riptide
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450. PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2003 2:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andreq wrote:
ill show you my plan for led with transistor if it work .. sunday

How are you choosing the transistor to use? Also, be sure to put a resistor on the base terminal to lower the voltage down before it hits the transistor. You may also need a resistor on the emitter terminal to lower the output voltage going back to the controller. Those are the three things I'm worried about when using a transistor for the lights.
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tr4il
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451. PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2003 3:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am just posting these pics of the changes that my pads wells have currently been through. (Both with something a little different that I added eg. Riptide's I used ring connectors and Beefman's I used the quick disconnects on the ground wire)

Riptide

Beefman
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ZotTower
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452. PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2003 7:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

That new riptide's picture you just posted doesn't look like you'd be able to add lights to it very well. What you could do is cut smaller pieces of wood for that center support and leave space in the middle for LED's or whatever. It might make the arrow panels light up unevenly though.
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ZotTower
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453. PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2003 7:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually it just occured to me that those middle 4 (or 2 depending how you count) sensor screws on that new riptide picture shouldn't be needed, because the panels are not going to ever be depressed in the middle w/o being depressed on the side.

Just another side thing...I like the whole idea of those flat mountin brackets I've seen. I think I am going to use those in my design, only I am going to see if I can find ones smaller (almost square) so I can put 4 on each side. That would give more sensors and more areas for contacts to be made so the pad should be more sensitive that way.

Once I buy a digital camera and build my double's pad (all next week)I'll post pictures and maybe instructions if I have the time.
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-joe-
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454. PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2003 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tr4il. Your making a blue beefman pad also? Question, what are you using to attach the sheet metal to the plexiglass?

Im using clear epoxy, but 4 squares already fell off. But mabey i didnt put as much as i shoulda?
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tr4il
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455. PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2003 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ZotTower wrote:
That new riptide's picture you just posted doesn't look like you'd be able to add lights to it very well. What you could do is cut smaller pieces of wood for that center support and leave space in the middle for LED's or whatever. It might make the arrow panels light up unevenly though.

This is because I wasn't the least bit interested in adding lights. erm.gif

-Joe- wrote:
Tr4il. Your making a blue beefman pad also? Question, what are you using to attach the sheet metal to the plexiglass?

Im using clear epoxy, but 4 squares already fell off. But maybe i didnt put as much as i shoulda?

Joe use the spray adhesive by 3M (either Super or Hi-Stength) from Home Depot. Spray sheet metal and area of plexi to be sticky, let sit for about 45 seconds to a minute, and stick. When you let the glue sit for a couple seconds it gets nice and tacky. happy.gif

(One of the bottom two in this pic)
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-joe-
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456. PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2003 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

good deal, thanks
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-joe-
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457. PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2003 2:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote



I resized and fized those pictures so, print that out and use it to attach to the dance pad above the tap switches.

(can someone put that on the 1st page?)
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AfRoNoVa2006
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458. PostPosted: Fri May 16, 2003 3:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey anyone see any of these cables usb or parrelel in any retail stores anywhere
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Andreq
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459. PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2003 3:28 am    Post subject: finish Reply with quote

Yep finaly its done. look great !

I got some problem because of old peice of wood. but... its just like....it could look better, but it work as good as if its not (it look great but at some place no .. because of my 32~33inĀ² wood peice

Ill try to put light tomorow (today work, tomorow fun !)

and a soemthing i found about transistor :

base go to evacuator directly ---------- this is the joystick "wire" with a button before the base
colector go to the avacuator (when base is going trough the transistor) -------- this is the "LED" + 9v (+ a resistor if needed jsut for the led not for the end of the evacuator) "wire"

yep - from joystick and - from 9v will be on the evacutator and yep it will go like that + from joysitck ------ transistor --------- - 9v but this isnt a problem because its not the same source of power so its not the same "electron" (sry if this is the work in french...) thats what a electronic freak guy said to me (hehe) and the - from the joystick will be atached to the evacuator too so it will make a "wire" (dont have the word in englsih for "circuit"...) and the ~3v from the joystick will jsut go trought is own "electron" and dont change from a bit.... this is own you can use a transistor as a relay what I found on the net : a transistor is a (can be use as a) relay without click and faster

ill try to show make a nice plan and try it before I show it to you
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