My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

[mogbert]

I agree with the previous guy, capacitance would likely be the problem, especially with large plates of sheet metal. You may want to verrify that the ground on the controller is soldered well, and that the connector of the controller is good (perhaps the controller doesn't always make contact with the PS2's ground, except when plugging it in? Check this by wiggling the plug rather then unplugging it and replugging it.) I'm just guessing, but I've seen some similar problems in an unmodded controller (wierd!).

Anyways, the reason I'm writing at all is that I may have a design for a platform that is very inexpensive (maybe less then some store bought soft pads) but also very sturdy, sensitive, and stable (although VERY heavy).
One of the first descisions I made was that I wouldn't be able to make a "metal" pad. Lets face it, most of the metal pads are sheet metal wrapped around plywood. The sheet metal is difficult to obtain (for me at least), expensive (the only place I can find it), and easy to get the wrong type (tin... roof... rusted!)
Next was the problem with the switches. There are different ways of doing it, but most work on the concept of sheet metal making contact with screws or other sheet metal. One person suggested to me using micro switches. Well, I was looking into them, the types I wanted were called snap switches or snap action switches. But then I realized there was an easier way. By using two screws and a thin piece of metal, you can create a switch alot like the ones in a morse code science project. I tried it with a spare piece of metal venician blinds. It works like a charm. Here is a simple diagram
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(+) ._/ . (-) the periods are screws, the line is sheet metal. that isn't the exact shape, but you get the idea. I did a few things to the metal to make it a better switch.
The only drawback in this design is that I want the platform that the switch is on to be adjustable. This requires some extra cutting of 2x4s, some bolts, springs, ect... But with all of that done, you should be able to use a screw driver to adjust the sensetivity of each step individually.
So far, I spent about $12 on Crystalite (plexiglass stuff), $9 on MDF board, and started with $9 on 2x4s. I'm going to Lowes later for the bolts, screws, and whatever material I will use for the top of the platforms. I'm still working on a cheaper and easier to get replacement for the corner brackets (unless I can suddenly find the right pieces at Lowes).

I expect the only tools needed will be a circular saw, a drill, and a hack saw. Now, there may be more fine work then some of the other plans, especially to save a buck. One idea I had about the corner brackets was to buy this strait piece of metal that has screw holes, maybe sawing it diagonally and having some wood under it. I have a digital camera, so if I do this and it works, there will be pictures. Maybe I'll even take pictures of the process just in case it works. If anyone is interested in my switch idea, let me know, and I'll take a picture of it... um, can you post a picture on here without a server to host it? Well, maybe I can email it or something.

[trolli]

I understand that it could be a charge buildup, and that it might not be grounded enough. Thats one thing I thought about. So what I did was ran a wire from the ground to a water pipe from a radiator in my house to test that theory. And the same thing happened. I would assume that a water pipe from a radiator would be enough to ground the circuit enough.

My next thought would be that I either have too much wire around, or the fact that since I was using cat5 cable, I left the pairs of wires for each button twisted until I got to the pad. so from the circuitboard to the first screw under the button is a twisted pair. Could this twisting be enough for signal to "bleed" together and cause the problem? I know that its not a very technical term, but I'm running out of ideas.

My only other thought would be that the twisting of the wires around each screw is causing a problem. Should I in fact solder each pair of wires to every screw so that its one solid mass on each screw instead of the twisted wires?

Hopefully even though on both of those ideas I mention twisted wires, everyone knows that I'm meaning twisted in two seperate ways.

[crypistol]

[krillin2121]

Hi, I'm new here to the forums, and I LOVE DDR...so thats why I decided to build my home pad and all...so here is my hello to everyone. Hi.

Ok, I have a quick question:

For riptide's videos - Where can I download them???? I've tried his site, other ppl's sites...like 4 places, and every place the videos won't download.

If anyone can give me links to WORKING sites/ftp's that have the videos, I will be very happy! Thanks[/b]

[trolli]

So what your saying is that instead of taking the ground from each button, and wrapping them all up together, and then soldering one wire from that mass to the ground on the circuitboard, I should actually solder each wire seperately to the circuitboard?

Meaning that I would have 8 wires soldered to the ground on the board? Does it really make that much of a difference between one wire going to ground, and 8?

[Blue Beefman]

[crypistol]

[frisina]

Okay everyone, I emailed my host and got the problem solved. They changed my IP on me... how nice of them! So, I can log into my server now. I won't post the link until everything is up, but keep an eye out for it popping up either later this evening or early tomorrow.

Things to get you all excited:

There is no need to drill through the PCB like everyone else has said.
It is not hard to solder to the Sony PCB.
You don't need any special tools.

And of course, it works lovely.

Now, let me finish it up and I'll get back to the forum with the link.

I'll read the big posts about the circuit problem mentioned earlier and see if I can't help contribute more there, too.

Talk with you guys later.
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Move sig.

[`pr0digy]

[`pr0digy]

Forgot to put this in last post... oops...

Mogbert: I can host a few images for you, no problems there, as long as they aren't huge, super hi-res, etc... just email the pics to [email protected].
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[-joe-]

AAAH!!!!!!!!AAAAAAAAA!!!!!!!!!


Im on the verge of finishing my blue beefman style dance pad!

all my arrows work, i just need to finish attaching the brackets and then i gotta finish epoxying my other arrows, then i gotta wire the start, select, X, O to the sheet metal

Should take a while longer, but im almost done!!!!!

(Oh Yeah, i full comboed Dynamite Rave on Basic with my new pad, i couldnt play trick or else the arrows woulda slid off the pad because the outter brackets arent on, just the inner ones
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good times, good times.

[frisina]

Hey all, the guide is complete and uploaded to my webserver.

The address is: http://www.geekvanity.com/sonycontroller

Feel free to hit me with any questions you might have. Request more pics, an FAQ...etc.... I will be glad to do anything to help.

And now, I am going to sleep.
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Move sig.

[ERIC=COOL]

Does anyone know any cheap USB gamepads I can use to do this? I'm looking to make one of these but it would be for PC use only so no point in using a PSX controller and an adaptor.

[krillin2121]

[Scott_W]

[NinjaFK]

Hey frisina, thanks for the guide, I'm sure it will be very helpful on the next pad I make.

Just in case you guys missed my question, I was wondering if there was a way to reduce the sound when playing on the pad with shoes. If you can help that would be awesome, thanks.

[trolli]

[MacX.]

I can't seem to get Riptides chapter3.avi video off his site .... If someone has it can they please please send it to me over icq or msn... thanks....
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Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee!

[Xeon Transponder]

[Scott_W]

Here are two pictures of the controller that I am going to use:

Top of the controller:


Bottom (don't pay attention those extra wires )