My home built metal DDR pad (Part IV)

Andreq · Trick Member Joined: 11 Apr 2003 Location: Quebec foreva

A ugly and MS Paint plan of what I think for the light

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My dance dance revolution metal pad pictures and stuffs : http://membres.lycos.fr/csclanbef/DDR/

Blue Beefman · Trick Member Joined: 31 Oct 2002 Location: WI

Well I would think the cardboard base would be fine, but not if you added lights...lights get hot and carboard burns...sooo I wouldnt reccomend it
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He is the Painkiller

Andreq · Trick Member Joined: 11 Apr 2003 Location: Quebec foreva

yeah.....hmmm.......

Ill put something between the cardboard and the bulb.. and it will not touch... and... if I use bright led... it cant be hot... (not 9V like on my plan for bright led lol)

question : my plan work ???

(edit : the question)
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My dance dance revolution metal pad pictures and stuffs : http://membres.lycos.fr/csclanbef/DDR/

NeMothe1st

[quote="themidnightrust"]Hi, I followed Homepad's guide to build a pad... But I'm afraid I messed up the arrows pretty badly...

When I stand on them, there's hardly any movement and you have to really press down on them to get them to register.

I know I soldered correctly, but I think I messed up the foamcore and weather stripping...

Is there a gude that's a little more in depth for them?

Thanks,
--Rust[/quote]
I had that same problem, you should try messing around with the wheather stripping, in my case I put o much. I have to push really hard for it to register. Then I took out some wheather stripping and moved it the very edge of the pegboard. Now the arrows are very sensitive.

themidnightrust · Basic Member Joined: 21 Jan 2003

Hehe, thanks...

I already got it working again though.

I cut off the corners like Riptide's and redid the weather stripping and it seems to work fine now.

Sleepydrakos · Trick Member Joined: 08 Mar 2003

Hello Everyone,

I need advice on soldering wires to the sheet metal. I am using a very thin rosin core solder. I am able to have the solder stick to the metal, but when I add the wire the solder falls off the sheet metal.

All help on this topic would be greatly appreciated!!!

Thanks in advance,

David

Andreq · Trick Member Joined: 11 Apr 2003 Location: Quebec foreva

Weston · Trick Member Joined: 17 Feb 2003 Location: Minnesota

You might want to try scratching the sheet metal where you want to solder, and keep the solder iron on the metal for 10 seconds or so, just so that the solder melts well and sticks. Pull on the wire slightly after you solder it to test if it has a strong bond with the metal.

By the way Blue Beefman, is that you joining the Tuttle's Bowling Bar and Grill competition this Saturday? I saw the name Beefman on the list of entrants.

ZotTower · Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2003 11:20 am Post subject:

In your guys' opinion, what is the best way to add lights to a pad? I know some of you are using are using a separte plug that you plug into the all, and others are using a 9 volt battery. Also which light bulbs would you recommend? I would think something pretty low watt so it's not excessively bright. Thanks
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Blue Beefman · Trick Member Joined: 31 Oct 2002 Location: WI

Weston- no thats my best friend...I would go, but I would have to be home saturday at its 7 hour drive...other wise I would be going...oh and beware of Beefman...hes REALLY good...not as good as Tick, but he took 3rd at the last tourney you had, he has long blonde hair, Tick took first, he has glasses and a shaved head.
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Weston · Trick Member Joined: 17 Feb 2003 Location: Minnesota

Yikes... I may not win the DDR PA, but I sure have a good chance at the Pump It Up PA, since there is just one other entrant. But nevertheless, I'm impressed with the best (Know what that's from?).
I just hope 8 months of DDR is good enough. When we start getting to level 9 songs, I'll start to have trouble.

Blue Beefman · Trick Member Joined: 31 Oct 2002 Location: WI

yeah too bad Im not going, I wanted to see your pad...it looks nice
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DDRMAX_Maniac · Basic Member Joined: 27 Apr 2003 Location: Texas

I was wondering if someone could elp me out here...
You see I have a soft pad by NAKI. The soft pads don't give much playability, so I was wondering if someone had directions for converting a soft pad to a arcade style metal one.
I can kinda see inside the cheap plastic pad, it appears to be pressure sensitive ribbon that goes across the whole mat and ends back at the top of the pad where there is the chip and the cable that comes out of the pad and goes into the playstation.
Thanx in advance for all the help i'll (hopefully) get!
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The final boss was really hard!

mogbert · Basic Member Joined: 24 Apr 2003

I'm trying to get a good design going for a hard DDR Platform (I might be using hardwood rather then metal, dunno yet). The thing is that I havn't really like either solution for the switches (I havn't read the 4573 posts in every metal platform thread). The two I've seen are "sheetmetal taped to plexiglass touching sheetmetal on peg board" and "sheetmetal taped to plexiglass touching screws with wires attached to them". I know there has to be some other way of doing it other then that. Maybe someone who has managed to read all of those threads since the beginning of time may recall some other ways I saw some pictures of the steps taken off of a Beat Pad (I think they are out of business leaving many people waiting for a refund or a pad). It seems they had four momentary push buttons around each step (wired in parallel, I would suspect). I like that, but I will be working with 2x4s, not molded plasticc, so it would be a little more difficult to do, and I'm not so sure i would be able to make it work (not to mention it would cost around $40 just to try it..
Well, I'm just hoping someone can point me to some other ways of doing it that don't require sheel metal to be taped to the bottom of the plexiglas.
Hey, and a good place that sells plexiglas would be nice, too! I can get enough at lowes for $22 or at a glass place for $40. Only thing is I don't know if it is "Plexiglas" or just "plexiglass" which could include cheaper plastic products that could break easier.

Blue Beefman · Trick Member Joined: 31 Oct 2002 Location: WI

well you can use microswitches, I used those to make the lights turn on, they click, but when you're playing you cant hear them ,I know one guy who used Microswitches, on in the middles of each arrow, but I am actually trying to come up with a way where I can make switches that are 1/4" thick and I could vust premake the switches and add 4 per arrow and not need anyyhing like weatherstripping or tubing, this would make things WAYYY easier...
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NeMothe1st · Posted: Mon Apr 28, 2003 2:59 pm Post subject:

I need to know all the soldering points on the official Sony Controller. The one with no Dual Shock. Will anyone help me?

djdtalongrl79 · Trick Member Joined: 27 Apr 2003 Location: ct

hey. Does anyone know of a cheap type of plexi or acrylic that will hold up against a beating but is any cheaper then lucite or lexan? thanx,
DJ D
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Everything happens for a reason. You love DDR for a reason!!
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mogbert · Basic Member Joined: 24 Apr 2003

Thanks blue beefman! I prolly could find a way to use one button for each step. I'll see if it works. In which case, I could use ones that are better then the 2.29 ones at radioshack.

Now, I had a similar question as the guy above me, I would like to find a place to get 1/4 plexiglas online cheap. or good, or something.
Anyway, I said it better in my last post (above), please help me find some plexiglas.

BluemeanieTrader · Trick Member Joined: 25 Apr 2003 Location: NY

Hey Beefman can ya post yer method of adding lights with switches, or perhaps update yer site with it?

Thanks
-Blue

`pr0digy · Trick Member Joined: 31 Mar 2003 Location: ogmios.ath.cx