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ZotTower
Trick Member
Joined: 28 Aug 2002
Location: Courthouse Plaza, Arlington, VA |
200.  Posted: Thu Apr 24, 2003 8:08 pm Post subject: |
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Weston - have you tried experimenting with gluing the sheet metal to the plywood board first, and then screwing the sheet metal on after the glue dries? Then the next step would be cutting the corners of the sheet metal off and bending it down over the sides. That was how I was planning on doing it but I want to know if you tried this and it didn't work well.
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Zep
Trick Member
Joined: 16 Apr 2003
Location: in the darkest cave on Thunder Cat Island |
| 201. Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2003 4:05 am Post subject: |
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u all are good at this,Makeing of DDR pads I could never do that they all look good 
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tr4il
Trick Member
Joined: 03 Dec 2002
Location: Jerz |
| 202. Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2003 10:22 am Post subject: |
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My pad used to work so well and now it seems like it doesn't work like it used to when I first built it...but it's all good because i got my IIDX >_<
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NY/NJ
MASSystems Clone - 1 2
" TerTerBox" For DDR Home Pads
p.s. my avatar owns yours |
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Weston
Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2003
Location: Minnesota |
| 203. Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2003 10:30 am Post subject: |
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| Quote: | | Weston - have you tried experimenting with gluing the sheet metal to the plywood board first, and then screwing the sheet metal on after the glue dries? Then the next step would be cutting the corners of the sheet metal off and bending it down over the sides. That was how I was planning on doing it but I want to know if you tried this and it didn't work well. |
I've tried it with my other pads. I didn't do this because I was afraid that if the screws were in the panel before the bending, then they would bend the metal around the screws. Besides, the screws should only be tightened so that they just touch the top of the metal in the final assembly, not too much tighter. But now that I think about it, I suppose you could do that. It probably won't damage the metal at all, and may in fact help you. If you do decide to do it that way, test it out on one metal panel. If it works, do it with the rest of them. There's no point in trying other methods if just one of them works for you. So go ahead and try it if you like, and tell me how it works out.
On a side note I fixed that odd problem with the left arrow acting weird. I understand how it works now, but it was a very strange flaw. It turns out that one of the wires used in the lighting was split open and touching the screw used in the controller connection. So what happened then is that the 9V electric current for the light would pass through the ground wire connection into the controller and was sending the controller 9V signals. I'm surprised it din't fry the controller (At least I have one product from Mad Catz that I am impresed with). I'm going to check the other wires to make sure this isn't happening. |
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Shadow_Dragonz
Trick Member
Joined: 16 Mar 2003
Location: California |
| 204. Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2003 11:34 am Post subject: |
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-Weston-
Do you have the back piece on your Paster pad, for the trick bar? If you do, do you mind if I have the dimentions you used for it?'
I'll try and put your design on how to make the square panels tonight. Have to get back to class now. 
Thanks.
On a side note real quick: I'm going to try your way because the way I did it didn't turn out that great. I do like it, but the panels are more of a round shape (on the sides) than square.
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Maximum Banjocity
Trick Member
Joined: 17 May 2002
Location: Rochester, NY |
| 205. Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2003 12:49 pm Post subject: |
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I was just curious as to how much it cost some of you to build your pads(materials and such). I'm planning on buying 2 of the red octane metal pads, but wanted to know the price difference. I have no experience, but I have a family of carpenters that could put it together if need be.
Im sure this question has appeared many times before, but I simply dont have the time to look through 11 pages. I would greatly appreciate any input.
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Weston
Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2003
Location: Minnesota |
| 206. Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2003 1:03 pm Post subject: |
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| Shadow_Dragonz wrote: | -Weston-
Do you have the back piece on your Paster pad, for the trick bar? If you do, do you mind if I have the dimentions you used for it? |
No, I didn't put the back piece on, it's just the basic 4-arrow stage. Here's what it looked like before I fixed the panels and arrows:
http://members.aol.com/tenk/images/lightdp.jpg
The lights are on because I put wood between the bracket and panel. I'll try and get a new photo of the adjusted pad sometime.
There was a picture I was that had all the dimensions of the arcade stage somewhere on one of these threads, but unfortunately I can't find it. Maybe someone else who posted it earlier will post it again.
On an unrelated note, I finally stopped the squeeking of my pad. All I did was put sticky felt on the corners of the plastic. The problem it had was that the plastic kept rubbing up against the metal brackets. If your pad ever squeeks, try this out. You can buy sticky felt sheets at Wal-Mart for under a dollar. Now it is so sensitive that even my 4 year old sister can step on the pad and make it light up. |
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-joe-
Trick Member
Joined: 08 Jan 2003
Location: lv |
| 207. Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2003 8:34 pm Post subject: |
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| Weston wrote: | | Shadow_Dragonz wrote: | -Weston-
Do you have the back piece on your Paster pad, for the trick bar? If you do, do you mind if I have the dimentions you used for it? |
No, I didn't put the back piece on, it's just the basic 4-arrow stage. Here's what it looked like before I fixed the panels and arrows:
http://members.aol.com/tenk/images/lightdp.jpg
The lights are on because I put wood between the bracket and panel. I'll try and get a new photo of the adjusted pad sometime.
There was a picture I was that had all the dimensions of the arcade stage somewhere on one of these threads, but unfortunately I can't find it. Maybe someone else who posted it earlier will post it again.
On an unrelated note, I finally stopped the squeeking of my pad. All I did was put sticky felt on the corners of the plastic. The problem it had was that the plastic kept rubbing up against the metal brackets. If your pad ever squeeks, try this out. You can buy sticky felt sheets at Wal-Mart for under a dollar. Now it is so sensitive that even my 4 year old sister can step on the pad and make it light up. |
i love your pad!!!!!
patsters is cool and all, but the trick bar is kind of unnecessary. Just put a chair behind the pad so the back of the chair is facing the back of the dance pad. You cant really do "tricks" with it, but its fine for holding onto when your playing songs like maniac maxx300
Are you using the big bulbs like the ones in patsers pad also?
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good times, good times. |
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NeMothe1st
Trick Member
Joined: 30 Sep 2002
Location: Orange County, CA |
| 208. Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2003 8:49 pm Post subject: |
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| Does anyone have a pic of all the solder points for the official sony controller. I need to know all the ground points and arrows. Cause I fried all my Mad Katz controllers and i'm getting sick of them, they suck. |
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Weston
Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2003
Location: Minnesota |
| 209. Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2003 8:53 pm Post subject: |
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| -Joe- wrote: | i love your pad!!!!!
patsters is cool and all, but the trick bar is kind of unnecessary. Just put a chair behind the pad so the back of the chair is facing the back of the dance pad. You cant really do "tricks" with it, but its fine for holding onto when your playing songs like maniac maxx300
Are you using the big bulbs like the ones in patsers pad also? |
Thank you!
The trick bar would actually be a nice thing to have since MAX 300 gets me exhausted easily. I don't have any chairs tall enough to support me. I did however have a bar contraption that involved a punching bag, a metal bar from some excersize equipment, and my brother holding it. Didn't work very well.
For the bulbs, I am using 40 watt standard light bulbs, so yeah, I am using the same size bulb that Patser uses. |
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-joe-
Trick Member
Joined: 08 Jan 2003
Location: lv |
| 210. Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2003 9:06 pm Post subject: |
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| Weston wrote: | | -Joe- wrote: | i love your pad!!!!!
patsters is cool and all, but the trick bar is kind of unnecessary. Just put a chair behind the pad so the back of the chair is facing the back of the dance pad. You cant really do "tricks" with it, but its fine for holding onto when your playing songs like maniac maxx300
Are you using the big bulbs like the ones in patsers pad also? |
Thank you!
The trick bar would actually be a nice thing to have since MAX 300 gets me exhausted easily. I don't have any chairs tall enough to support me. I did however have a bar contraption that involved a punching bag, a metal bar from some excersize equipment, and my brother holding it. Didn't work very well.
For the bulbs, I am using 40 watt standard light bulbs, so yeah, I am using the same size bulb that Patser uses. |
Hmm. Im 6'1" A chair worked fine for me. Although ive never played at an official DDR arcade machine, im not sure where it goes up to. Eh, oh well!
Lights are tempting me greatly. I am making blue beefmans dance pad so i would have to use smaller 6 or 9 volt bulbs.
Would it be possible to have it be plugged into the wall instead of batteries?
Another thing, i was thinking christmas lights. i would cut one wire and wire them to the arrows so when you plugged in the lights and stepped on the arrows te lights would light up. But, that would just be like plugging in and out christmas lights hundreds of times per minute. Hmm, thatll get the electricity flowin through the house pretty good, lol
Could i use christmas lights and have them wires under the arrows without my original idea?
thanks
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good times, good times. |
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24-7ddR*aLaN*
Basic Member
Joined: 23 Apr 2003
Location: WA state-Redmond |
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tr4il
Trick Member
Joined: 03 Dec 2002
Location: Jerz |
| 212. Posted: Fri Apr 25, 2003 10:22 pm Post subject: |
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Weston: Can you take a snapshot of your arrow well for me? Or just tell me what it consists of (wstripping, silicon, etc)?
edit: If you guys click on "My Pad" down in the sig you can see my old pad...and I was wondering if my wire is kind of long. I have quite a long CAT-5 coming out to the terterbox and then the psx controller length. Im thinking of gutting my pad and rewiring/redoing the sensory prgans of my pad. What do you guys all think? (sorry for not being here in a while)
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NY/NJ
MASSystems Clone - 1 2
" TerTerBox" For DDR Home Pads
p.s. my avatar owns yours |
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Blue Beefman
Trick Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2002
Location: WI |
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BluemeanieTrader
Trick Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2003
Location: NY |
| 214. Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2003 2:41 am Post subject: |
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Weston, to stop the squeaking, i'm a little confused on where the felt goes.. Is it just over the edges of the acrylic, on the corners, covering both peieces, and just the portion that is underneath the brackets?
Bluebeefman... Come on, post yer lighting technique in detail, I'm sure i'm not the only one that is looking forward to it.
-Blue |
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Leelee
Trick Member
Joined: 07 Nov 2002
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| 215. Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2003 8:21 am Post subject: |
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| BANJO wrote: | I was just curious as to how much it cost some of you to build your pads(materials and such). I'm planning on buying 2 of the red octane metal pads, but wanted to know the price difference. I have no experience, but I have a family of carpenters that could put it together if need be.
Im sure this question has appeared many times before, but I simply dont have the time to look through 11 pages. I would greatly appreciate any input. |
Well, mine was $120 dollars canadian. And a family of carpenters means you won't have to spend as much on some of the wood, or screws, those things. And I have noe heard good things about the red octane metal pads, I think the general feelin is if you're not going to make your own, just go all out and get cobalt flux's.
edit: oh and 11 pages, i read through 103 with the last thread before asking questions. Also on riptides and ddrhomepad's sites they have a list of the amount, and cost of the things they used were.
Also, it really isn't too hard to make your own pad, and it is cheaper then buying a good one.
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It's True, And I'm Living Proof. Some Fat Guys Can Almost Dance.
HeeHee, look at Black Mage He Can Dance Too.
Last edited by Leelee on Sat Apr 26, 2003 8:29 am, edited 1 time in total |
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Weston
Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2003
Location: Minnesota |
| 216. Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2003 8:24 am Post subject: |
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| Quote: | Lights are tempting me greatly. I am making blue beefmans dance pad so i would have to use smaller 6 or 9 volt bulbs.
Would it be possible to have it be plugged into the wall instead of batteries?
Another thing, i was thinking christmas lights. i would cut one wire and wire them to the arrows so when you plugged in the lights and stepped on the arrows te lights would light up. But, that would just be like plugging in and out christmas lights hundreds of times per minute. Hmm, thatll get the electricity flowin through the house pretty good, lol
Could i use christmas lights and have them wires under the arrows without my original idea? |
Since it seems that Blue Beefman uses 9V batteries, you might just want to have a place in the pad where you can easily access the batteries and change them if needed. There are other methods to plug the lights into the wall, but I can't suggest much.
| Quote: | Weston: Can you take a snapshot of your arrow well for me? Or just tell me what it consists of (wstripping, silicon, etc)?
edit: If you guys click on "My Pad" down in the sig you can see my old pad...and I was wondering if my wire is kind of long. I have quite a long CAT-5 coming out to the terterbox and then the psx controller length. Im thinking of gutting my pad and rewiring/redoing the sensory prgans of my pad. What do you guys all think? (sorry for not being here in a while) |
Here's a picture of the inside. I modified it just a little bit later on. And here's a closer look at what Patser did in his pad. I just used weatherstripping, and that seems to work very well. The only thing in this picture that I didn't get to take a picture of is the small wood blocks that go under the outside brackets to support them from being pressed inward. These blocks go in the place of the small diagonal weatherstripping that was originally there.
Why would you want to do the rewiring? If it works fine, you really don't have anything to worry about. If it isn't very sensitive, then go ahead and redo the wiring and contacts. I don't see what the problem is, so I can't help out much.
| Quote: | | Weston, to stop the squeaking, i'm a little confused on where the felt goes.. Is it just over the edges of the acrylic, on the corners, covering both peieces, and just the portion that is underneath the brackets? |
My plastic arrow panels look like Riptide has his. Here's a picture of his. The felt goes on the outside edge of the diagonal cuts (the edges that will go under the bracket). I cut 1/2 inch felt strips (the same as the height of both panels when they are put together), and stuck them on the corners of the octagon. I made the felt slightly longer than the length of the diagonal corners too, just so that any plastic doesn't have a chance of rubbing against the metal brackets. If your plastic is square, just put it on the corner edges of the square and try that out.
To be clear about something, the felt is NOT placed on top or underneath of the plastic panels, it is placed around the edges, since this is the area where the plastic rubs against the metal. |
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Blue Beefman
Trick Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2002
Location: WI |
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themidnightrust
Basic Member
Joined: 21 Jan 2003
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| 218. Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2003 1:26 pm Post subject: Getting the arrows to work right... |
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Hi, I followed Homepad's guide to build a pad... But I'm afraid I messed up the arrows pretty badly...
When I stand on them, there's hardly any movement and you have to really press down on them to get them to register.
I know I soldered correctly, but I think I messed up the foamcore and weather stripping...
Is there a gude that's a little more in depth for them?
Thanks,
--Rust |
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Andreq
Trick Member
Joined: 11 Apr 2003
Location: Quebec foreva |
| 219. Posted: Sat Apr 26, 2003 1:29 pm Post subject: Ddr Pad ! |
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Ill start building my DDR metal pad in 1 week (yeah !) using Riptide design.
I went to home depot and .. stupid like Im... I bought 1/4'' wheater stripping... (need 1/2''... was not aving my list with me.. darn) but I listed all the price and the size of what I need. It will aproximaly cost 75 $ (CAN) without taxes and.. probaly.. 100$ (CAN) with.. (lol).
I have 2X4 here so I dont need any and other thing like wires and screws.
Ill do the "screw" and "metal sheet" contact system (not the bluebeefman corner system) because I think its simple and it gona work for more than 3 month.
thx for your nice design Riptide, ill try to make it look like your pad.
Some question :
1. Can i use .25" lucite or .177" can work (I can have .177 TUF lucite and no .25" TUF but... not TUF should be OK)
2. Ill use cardboard ... realy thick .. beside plywood for my base... it gona be OK ??.... probaly.. I saw your first pad.. without any wood under it.. jsut 2X4 
3. Im sure I can find braces in my beautiful country of..canada... (I wanted to write quebec haha) in a store... so... this gona work ?? (lol .. why not..)
thx for all your post and your nice pad !!1
Next step : Putting light to it (after bulding it) .. ill try to figure out a electronic plan for the "9V from wall plug" to the relay and etc....
I dont know why but the board is "fu******" so
page 12 :
http://www.ddrfreak.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=59254&start=220
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Last edited by Andreq on Sat Apr 26, 2003 3:02 pm, edited 1 time in total |
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