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Rym
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Joined: 01 Apr 2003
Location: Rochester, NY |
160.  Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2003 12:33 pm Post subject: |
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To everyone having trouble with PS controllers frying and whatnot:
If you have an old soft pad lying around, rip the controller board out of the front of it (it doesn't matter what brand). They typically only have the direction arrows and the four main buttons, and circuitry-wise are a lot simpler/more durable.
Even better, most of them have a nice line of labled, easy-to-solder contacts, and ground is always clearly marked. (Most of these are made en masse a la Nike methods, and the workers need to know what to solder where  )
The circuit design is, as I said, very simple. Just a few capacitors and resistors and a small number of traces.
If I have time, I might put together a schematic for you guys 
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Blue Beefman
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Joined: 31 Oct 2002
Location: WI |
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-joe-
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Joined: 08 Jan 2003
Location: lv |
| 162. Posted: Fri Apr 18, 2003 8:42 pm Post subject: |
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success, all my arrows work. but, getting the arrows to move up and down freely and getting everything even and lined up. oh man, this is gunna take time
i just keep telling myself it will be worth it!!!
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ZotTower
Trick Member
Joined: 28 Aug 2002
Location: Courthouse Plaza, Arlington, VA |
| 163. Posted: Sat Apr 19, 2003 7:53 am Post subject: |
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| Rym wrote: | To everyone having trouble with PS controllers frying and whatnot:
If you have an old soft pad lying around, rip the controller board out of the front of it (it doesn't matter what brand). They typically only have the direction arrows and the four main buttons, and circuitry-wise are a lot simpler/more durable.
Even better, most of them have a nice line of labled, easy-to-solder contacts, and ground is always clearly marked. (Most of these are made en masse a la Nike methods, and the workers need to know what to solder where )
The circuit design is, as I said, very simple. Just a few capacitors and resistors and a small number of traces.
If I have time, I might put together a schematic for you guys |
I tore apart one of my old soft pads to try to use that for the wiring once....I didn't really know what I was doing though. I was sort of afraid that if I cut the clear plastic really thin material with the black sensor lines on it, the circuit board would stop working. The circuit board itself looked OK to solder to, but at the time I didn't know how to solder so I taped the wires to the black sensor lines on the plasticy material. It fried out in a few days.
Now I also used to use that thick double sided foam like tape you can find at most stores. It has a green crossign pattern on it. But anyways whenever I tried keeping wires in place with that they would short out within a few days of playing. But finally, a few weeks ago I figured out how to solder good (the secret is drilling holes next to the solder point so you have like an anchor point that's really sturdy). And since I did the soldering the right way, my ddr pad has had no problesm shorting out the circuit board.
So what I think is happening (at least in my case) is that
good soldering = working pad that shouldnt short out
bad soldering or using tape = pad that will work for a few days and short out.
I dont really think which controller you use matters a whoooole lot...but I've also only had luck using the official ps controllers (no analog). The 5 dollar ones might work fine (all ~5 of mine have shorted out, but that was with using tape too). The ones found in soft pads are probably fine too. Just make sure you solder.
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Andreq
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Joined: 11 Apr 2003
Location: Quebec foreva |
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darudefx
Trick Member
Joined: 14 Jul 2002
Location: somewhere special |
| 165. Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2003 7:45 am Post subject: |
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Which is a good lighting technique? I wanted to make the next pad a lighted one so which one should I use. Give me your suggestions and that would be great on lighting plans for our next pad.
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darudefx
I will get an extreme (8th mix) machine somewhere or get an older machine and upgrade it to extreme (8th mix).
Here is my site at http://www.myddrhomepad.tk |
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Weston
Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2003
Location: Minnesota |
| 166. Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2003 9:19 am Post subject: |
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| I made one using the Patser design. I like it because you don't need batteries to make it light up. I don't like it because the pad was very heavy and a little thicker than the arcade. To make it smaller, use 2x3 instead of 2x4 boards. You would need to change a couple things: use smaller bulbs like the candelabra type and also make sure your outlet box is as wide or smaller than the width of the 2x3 boards. Check to make sure that any other components will fit inside the smaller pad, such as the light bulb sockets too. That's it as far as I know. |
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Blue Beefman
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Shadow_Dragonz
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Joined: 16 Mar 2003
Location: California |
| 168. Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2003 5:34 pm Post subject: Home built dance pad and FAQ |
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Hi,
I haven't posted here in a while. I've been busy lately, with school and the rest. I have finished my dance pad. It works great! All I have to do is just touch it up and it'll be prefect. And now, to pick my second design.
Does anyone know the dimentions for for the back piece for Paster's design? That's the only thing I need if I wish to build it.
Well, I wanted to create a FAQ topic, but I wasn't sure. I thought that I might get a warning. If you guys think that I can do it, then I'll post it in a new topic. But until then, I'll post it here. Lmk what you guys think. I know there's a lot of work that'll still has to go in it.
**********
Well, here it is, the FAQ for the DDR metal dance pad, home made! Some people have mentioned that they have wanted a FAQ. Riptide, DDRhomepad, Patster, and the rest all have lives of their own. I know that they don?t have the time to write up a FAQ. Many people don?t have the time to search endlessly through hundreds of pages to find their answer. Others don?t want to ask their repetitive question just to get yelled at that, that it has been answered already. With so many questions being asked over and over, this is why this has been created.
Note: This FAQ is not to make the home built metal pad discussion obsolete. This is only to remove the commonly asked questions. Also, it is here to help for reference.
Where can I find where to build a DDR dance pad?
DDRhomepad?s: http://www.angelfire.com/d20/ddrhomepad/
If that site is down, then: http://www.digitaltorque.com/dancepad/
Riptide?s: http://www.digitaltorque.com/mydancepad/
Patster?s: http://home.attbi.com/~patster/home.html
Why should I build a DDR dance pad?
They are very durable. You build it yourself, so if something goes wrong, you?ll know what it is and how to fix it. You can customize it to your liking. For instance, if you would like the pad to be more sensitive, then you can adjust that. If you?d like to so that it can hold more weight, then you can do that too. Also, building your own pad costs less than buying a pre-made metal pad.
Can someone with no experience build a DDR dance pad?
Yes
How much does it cost to build a DDR dance pad?
It costs about $120, more or less. It?ll depend on what materials you already have, what stores you go to, etc. Costs will vary.
How much weight can the dance pad hold?
They can hold approx 200 or more pounds. It really depends on what is used for supports beneath. There have been reports from builders that theirs have been run over by a car and still work perfectly.
Can lights be added to the dance pad?
Yes.
Riptide?s and Patster?s design both made to be equipped with lights. Patster has a document on how to add lights if that?s the design chosen.
Are there any other mods that can be added to the dance pad?
A trick bar can be added to the dance pad if desired.
There?s a screw mod for the DDRhomepad design: | [omg]Twilight[wtf]RC[lol] wrote: |
we had a lot of problems at first with the contacts, but to fix it, we put screws through the bottom, and the sensitivity shot through the roof (i can tap my foot as light as possible on the very edge and it still registers) we used brass screws so as to conduct electricity well, and they wont poke through the metal, because brass is softer than steel. I soldered the arrows to the x, o, triangle, and square, which proved to work better (also for the computer).
The pad is great, and it works perfectly, the screw modifications helped a lot. We also put a wood frame around it and dropped a piece of plywood in there and screwed it in.
|
Riptide mentioned that dipping some solder in the middle should work as well too.
Another mod is one for Riptide?s Design ? BlueBeefman: Instead of weather stripping, there is tubing (silicon?) that is used. Also, instead of all the screws for contacts, there are brackets in the corners instead.
Links for his mod: http://members.lycos.co.uk/monkeybroadcasting/mbcimages/iamattractive1.jpg
http://members.lycos.co.uk/monkeybroadcasting/mbcimages/iamattractive2.jpg
http://members.lycos.co.uk/monkeybroadcasting/mbcimages/iamattractive3.jpg
http://members.lycos.co.uk/monkeybroadcasting/mbcimages/iamattractive4.jpg
Another mod is Making the Perfect Metal Panel. It's a good mod on how to create the metal panels without flaws, or almost no flaws.
http://www.ddrfreak.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?p=6938749&highlight=#6938749
Is there a written up document on how to build Patster?s design?
None that I know of.
Is there a list of materials and sizes for Patster?s design?
None that I know of.
*EDIT: 2x4 for all supports under all the panels
8 - 10 7/8 inch x 10 7/8 inch 1/4 inch think acrylic/carbonite/plexi/etc
Same metal panels as Riptide's/ddrhomepad's (built the sam way)
Same amount of metal screws
1/2 inch think weather stripping 
4x light bulbs
transistors
relays
micro switches
It is pretty much the same with only differences in sizes of the materials and how they are used. The pictures really do explain pretty much everything. Soldering job is a bit difficult if you are inexperienced (found out by building mine with about the same idea. Learned from experience  . The measurements for the trick bar and the parts in the back to add a trick bar are unknown to me at this time. 
Where can I buy these materials?
You can find most at Homedepot or Lowe?s.
What tools do I need for building a dance pad?
Required Tools- Jigsaw, Mallet, Phillips Screwdriver, Tin Snips, Measuring Tape, Metal Cutting Blade for the Jigsaw, Soldering Iron.
Optional Tools- Dremel Rotary Tool, Table Saw, Scissors, Pencil/Pen
What is Lucite/lexan/plexiglass/etc?
Those are just brand names for Acrylic. Some are stronger than others. It?s pretty much what you prefer, what?s available, and what you can afford. There?s no one that?s really better than the others.
*EDIT: I believe one of those is not acrylic. There are other brands which are like acrylic; however they are not. They do cost more to buy but are stronger. So, those other ones (names ) do not really bend, if at all, and probably will never break.
**EDIT: Lexan is the one that is not acrylic
| Weston wrote: | | I'd just like to mention for the FAQ that Lexan is not the same as Lucite or Plexiglass. Lucite will usually be a stiff acrylic, but also brittle if you get Lucite-Tuf. Lucite-ES is better for this kind of project. I'm not sure about Plexiglass. Lexan is virtually bulletproof. It is the strongest acrylic you can buy, and also the most expensive. The bendability in these materials may differ. If you have the money, go with Lexan. In any case, any of these materials will work well enough for the project. |
Where can I find sheet metal or acrylic cheaper?
Fabricators that specialize in sheet metal or acrylics would be the best places to search. At those places, you should be able to get the sheet metal/Acrylic cut to the size you want, and get it cheaper. Check your phone book or around your town. There should be some place local that you can stop by.
How should I drill in the acrylic?
You should first mark where you are going to drill in them. After you?ve marked the areas, start with a small drill bit and work your way up to the size that is needed. It?s best to go with a size that is larger than the screw that?s going to be inserted through.
How long does it take to construct a DDR dance pad?
Time varies. Some have said to be done in 14 hours, while others have been done it 26+ hours. It really depends on the tools that you have, experience, the amount of time (if you break it up between days/weeks), and so fourth.
Where can I get the picture or graphics for the arrows?
I would have to say that you would need to download the picture on to a cd or disk. You would then to go to Kinkos or another processing store. You will need to ask them for 11x17 paper to be printed on. It?s larger than needed, but you can always cut it down to size. If you go to a store that is local, it should be cheaper than going to Kinkos.
---
If you would like it to be high-shine, ask for Cast-Coated. If that?s not in stock, then ask for Satin finish. ?Go for something around 150-300gsm if possible, good thickness.?
---Thanks to Fall for that Info
How can I make my pad more sensitive? (DDRhomepad's)
To make the pad more sensitive, you can make a 1/2" gap in the weather stripping (in the center) as said by DDRhomepad. This will allow trapped air to escape more easily, allowing it to compress with more ease. You can remove some weather stripping if desired, but make sure that the sheet metal isn't touching when this is done. Break in your dance pad; play on with it for a few hours. This compress the weather stripping down, making it so that the arrows don't have to be compress as much to register. If those methods don't work, then you could try the screw mod/solder mod. If that doesn't fit your need, then you could explore and try different things to get the desired sensitivity.
*EDIT: You can buy weatherstripping that is not as think or use substitutes that work just as well for ddrhomepad's/Riptide's or any other dance pad. For Riptide's, you can just make the screws higher or lower until the desired sensitivity is acquired. It's probably best to take just one panel and test it out with these methods or however you choose, and then when you achieve it, to do the same to the rest of the arrow panels.
How do I solder to the sheet metal/controller?
Tips on soldering can be found at:
http://wrongcrowd.com/arcade/sony.shtml
http://wrongcrowd.com/arcade/joystickp2.shtml
http://axelb.free.fr/caj/psx.html
http://www.ee.upenn.edu/rca/funstuff/soldering/soldering.html
http://www.ee.upenn.edu/rca/funstuff/soldering/soldering2.html
http://www.gameconsolerepair.com/solderinghelp.html
Thanks to DDRhomepad for those links.
| Riptide wrote: |
To solder to the sheetmetal, scratch the sheetmetal with something in the area you're going to be soldering to. When you're soldering, be sure to heat up the sheetmetal for a good amount of time. The heat dissipates pretty quickly over the metal, and if the sheetmetal isn't warm enough, it's harder for the solder to stick.
To solder to the controller, it's a bit harder. You will scratch the metal contact you're going to solder to and heat the controller a little bit and solder basically the same way as the sheetmetal, but you have to be more careful. You don't want to burn the controller, so don't heat it nearly as much, and you might have to scratch it a lot more than the sheetmetal.
Your carpet should be fine to play on. The pad will compress the carpet a bit after it sits. If you don't want it to slide much, you might invest in some rubber feet or something that you can screw to the bottom of the pad.
|
*EDIT: Solder Flux really helps out too. It cleans the area for soldering when heated and helps transfer heat.
How do I cut the acrylic and the sheet metal?
You can cut the sheet metal with tin snips. For the acrylic you can use a jigsaw or a rotary tool. When using the rotary tool, be sure to score it at least a few times, then snap the piece off.
Where can I find the images for the arrows?
Links for the arrow designs can be found at the metal pad discussion forum http://www.ddrfreak.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=59254&start=0
Will the dance pad work for DDRMAX?s or DDRMAX 2's freeze arrows?
Yes
What kind of wires should I use?
CAT5 wire is what most people have gone with.
EDIT: 16 guage wires work too.
My arrow isn?t registering, what?s wrong?
It could be due that there?s a short in the wire. It could also be that the soldering wasn?t done correctly or that it has come off.
EDIT: If there is a lot of static build up, it could prevent the arrows from registering.
Should I be concerned with static build up?
There has been talk about static frying controllers. Those instances aren?t too many, but to be safe, you could ground your pad.
EDIT: A Sony Play Station Controller usually will not fry. They are harder, or seem to be, to solder too. There are a few guides out there that explain exactly how to solder to them and where, and with pictures.
How long should the wires be?
They should be about 6-8 feet long. Any longer than that could fry your controller.
Can you stack 2 1/4" strips of weatherstipping?
Yes, you can stack 2 pieces of 1/4" strips of weatherstripping. There have been no reports of any problems in doing this, but it'd probably better to go with the 1/2" strips if you can find them.
Where can I find information on soldering to a Sony Controller?
You find information on soldering to the controller, and myths about soldering to on at http://www.geekvanity.com/sonycontroller/
Which design is the best to build?
There is no best design out there. Just pick one that fits your needs/wants. If there isn?t one that you like or has what you want, then you can always design your own pad!
Can I use cheaper materials for building the dance pad?
It is not recommended to use cheaper material for building your dance pad. Doing so would be at your own risk. . Though to answer the question: yes.
What are the dimentions in Centimeters (cm)?
The dimentions should be 28cm per panel, and a total of 84cm x 84cm.
Where do I go if I need further help or have a question that?s not posted here?
http://www.ddrfreak.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=59254&start=0
That?s where I got started
A very special thanks to DDRhomepad. Without his design, write up, links, discussion, and the rest, this wouldn?t be possible. Special thanks to Riptide who constantly contributes to the DDR community and even answers questions hundreds of times over (or as it seems). Thanks to BlueBeefman for his contributions, the home built metal pad community, and the rest of the ddr community. I take no credit in this FAQ, but only for writing it.
Something missing/unclear? Comments? Just give a post/PM me/E-mail me.
[email protected] I see a connection here 
Soon to come (hopefully): Pictures, more faq questions, links, electronic help, and anything else of relevance.
EDIT: Added more FAQ questions/answers. 4-21-03, 5:07am update.
EDIT: Added yet more FAQ questions/answers. 4-21-03, 3:46pm update.
Hmm...wonder what I have been doing all this time...
EDIT: Added another FAQ question(s), another mod added, and Patster's design updated. 9-27-03, 9:00pm update.
EDIT: Added more FAQ questions and stuff. 9-27-03, 9:55pm.
EDIT: Added Metric dimentions, or at least some . 12-3-03, 3:11pm.
EDIT: Various updates/additions to the FAQ. 3-3-04, 11:15pm.
EDIT: After over 1 year, I finally have something to add
[url]http://www.anikionline.com/FAQs/ddr/index.html [/url]
This is a compilation of many FAQs and questions that plague many players who wish to create their own dance pad. I quickly ran over it and it seems very detailed. When I get more time I'll go over it.
Sadly to say, my pictures of Patster's design have been deleted and thrown away. However if it is needed, I still have Riptide's AVIs.
**********
Shadow_Dragonz
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Last edited by Shadow_Dragonz on Thu Dec 08, 2005 4:24 pm, edited 9 times in total |
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-joe-
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Joined: 08 Jan 2003
Location: lv |
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Bojangles
Trick Member
Joined: 06 Apr 2003
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| 170. Posted: Sun Apr 20, 2003 11:47 pm Post subject: |
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I finished my DDRHomepad, and it had been working flawlessly for 2 days. but already the arrows have lost alot of sensitivity, and the up and left arrows register together no matter which one you press.
Would taking out some weather stripping be a good idea? and could it be that my mad catz controller is starting to die on me?
i thought i should get some inside help before i tear things apart |
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Shadow_Dragonz
Trick Member
Joined: 16 Mar 2003
Location: California |
| 171. Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2003 2:22 am Post subject: |
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Do they register together or just constantly? One reason could be a bad connection. I had something similar happen to me. It was because I didn't solder correctly to the arrows. I made it ethier too big or it had a point on it. That caused it, when I compressed them by screwing them in, to puncture through the weather stripping and duct tape. Since that happened, they made contact. So there would be constant contacts through out the game, making it impossible to play.
It could be the controller. For the weather stripping, you could take out some out as long as the sheet metal doesn't contact. Use DDRhomepad's idea and cut about 1/2 inch area in the midde from the weather stipping. That should let out more trapped air from the arrow. It should allow it to become more sensitive and more responsive. Also, try breaking it in. When you break it in, the weather stripping will compress, and stay at a lower level. So when you step on the arrown, it will have less to travel down then when you first start using the pad. Lastly, make sure you've cut the acrylic enough. Allow for it to move smoothly, but still conver the area. It it's too tight, then you'll have to press a little harder to make the contact. You can tell this if it looks like it's bending up. It should show in the middle of the arrow. For my pad, when I did that, they felt almost like the arcades.
About the contacts/arrows, I really don't know. Just make sure that your soldering is good. Make sure that the connections are good too. It's possible that one of the wires is bad, but that's just an assumption. Lastly, check that the wiring is correct for the arrows.
I hope this helps. I fried 2 wires when building mine! I had to take them off the controller and redue them! I almost ripped off the contacts from the controller! Good luck and hope that the problem can be resolved.  |
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robbiej
Trick Member
Joined: 25 May 2002
Location: Vancouver, BC, Canada |
| 172. Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2003 2:37 am Post subject: |
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-edit-
oops, please ignore!
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Xeon Transponder
Trick Member
Joined: 03 Mar 2003
Location: The moon |
| 173. Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2003 4:17 am Post subject: re |
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another problem you might be experiencing is the CAT 5 wires breaking. THe telephone cable is a single strand wire which can snap very easily, that happened to me my first day. To fix, i found where it was broken and fixed it although it might be easier to replace the whole cat-5 wire...
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ddrhomepad
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Joined: 24 Jan 2002
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| 174. Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2003 7:00 am Post subject: |
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Shadow_Dragonz
Thanks for writing the FAQ, I added it to the first post of the thread. One other question would be.
What tools do I need to build a pad?
Required Tools-
Jigsaw, Mallet, Phillips Screwdriver, Tin Snips, Measuring Tape, Metal Cutting Blade for the Jigsaw.
Optional Tools-
Dremel Rotary Tool, Table Saw
There may be more tools, I can't remember since it's been so long since I've built a pad
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Weston
Trick Member
Joined: 17 Feb 2003
Location: Minnesota |
| 175. Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2003 8:41 am Post subject: |
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I'd just like to mention for the FAQ that Lexan is not the same as Lucite or Plexiglass. Lucite will usually be a stiff acrylic, but also brittle if you get Lucite-Tuf. Lucite-ES is better for this kind of project. I'm not sure about Plexiglass. Lexan is virtually bulletproof. It is the strongest acrylic you can buy, and also the most expensive. The bendability in these materials may differ. If you have the money, go with Lexan.
In any case, any of these materials will work well enough for the project.
Now for something completely different...
I've built two dance pads already, and a constant problem with them is the metal panels. If they're not glued, they'll pop up. If they are glued with the wrong glue, they'll make cracking noises and look bumpy. So now I'm making a new set of metal panels for my pad, and so far, this method I'm using is working very well. After I get my pad re-assembled and tested, I'll write a guide on making the "perfect" metal panel if everything goes well. It's a long building process, but it'll be worth it in the end. Keep your eyes open in the near future if you're interested. |
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Shadow_Dragonz
Trick Member
Joined: 16 Mar 2003
Location: California |
| 176. Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2003 1:05 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the input. I'll try and add those things to the FAQ today. I only know from what I've experienced from building my pad, so it'll be different than others. Input would be excellent, and thanks for far!
The only thing that I found around here was lexan, so I really don't know the difference. For my arrows, they fell just like the arcades or as close as you can get. I was also able to drill through them and had no problems about cracking them. Though I don't recommend trying to break them. I tried that with a piece and instead had it snap back to shape and cut me .
-DDRhomepad
Edit: Answered the question myself
-Anyone
Still curious if anyone out there has the dimentions for the back piece for Patster's design...
-BlueBeefman
Where can you get the tubing for your mod? The brackets in the corners? How's the sensitivity for your pad?
Thanks
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eri530
Basic Member
Joined: 20 Apr 2003
Location: my computer |
| 177. Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2003 1:41 pm Post subject: |
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| hrm... with the current two designs, theres one with screws and another with sheet metal. Anyone ever try to make the one with screws but instead of screws, get aluminum screening and fold that over a silicon tube and just tacking that on the bottom in a square. (youd probaboly have to get thicker weather stripping or something) but that would solve the screws eating into the sheet metal, but would also make the contact area closer to the edges so it should respond better. |
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Bojangles
Trick Member
Joined: 06 Apr 2003
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| 178. Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2003 4:12 pm Post subject: :) |
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my pad is finished, all problems solved and is 300% better thanks to the help and input you guys gave me. Shadow_Dragonz, cutting the lucite down 1/8 of an inch on the edges made the sensitivity comparable to the arcade  .
Thankyou everybody for replying to my questions so quickly, and thankyou ddrhomepad for providing an awesome pad design.
Last edited by Bojangles on Mon Apr 21, 2003 4:16 pm, edited 1 time in total |
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crookboo
Basic Member
Joined: 03 Sep 2002
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| 179. Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2003 4:15 pm Post subject: Bottom of the pad? |
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I made a homepad a while ago (my own design - different from the other four going around) and it works fine, but...
What do you put on the bottom of the pad if you're playing on hardwood floors? Using nothing'll scratch up the floor, and I tried linoleum tile but it slips too much. Any idea? |
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