Search found 37 matches

Yep, gotta second (or third) the concept of a forum being for discussion, even if it is repetitive at times. You always have the choice of not responding. Some people are quick to pull that trigger ...

I grounded mine, or should I say, grounded the center stationary pad (pad's still in process) because it was easy and recommended. If you have all the metal connected somehow, and it touches the grou ...

Stoli, you have really given back with your postings and setting up your website with detailed instructions and pics. It has helped a lot, as have the other pad makers postings (thanks to them as wel ...

In looking at pics of the upcoming Red Octane Afterburner pad, the most distinctive feature is that the switch pads are slightly below the stationary pads. Stoli, would you see a problem with doing t ...

Thanks Stoli, I had the canned contact cement and wanted to be sure it was ok. As far as the wood pieces on the bottom part of the switch pads, I found that getting the 1/8" and 1/4" hardboard and th ...

Stoli, in step 8 of your switch explanation, you use spray adhesive. Is there any reason you didn't use contact cement for that step (just off hand, I would think it would bond better, so that's the ...

Klott,
You can replace the bottom lucite piece with the thin plywood as long as it can flex like the lucite. If it's too rigid, then the metal contacts won't make contact.

Dang, I was gonna use pl ...

Stoli, you da man! Thanks for completing the pics and directions on your website. It really helps.

With regards to the mousepad corners. Is that to give more rebound to the area around the screw ...

slvrshdw, looks like you are on your way. Mine is looking a lot like yours! Really great to have all these guys contributing ideas!

I had bought two BNS pads. I liked the thicker foam and it seemed (at first) to solve the problem of steps not registering. Then, the one pad wouldn't register the left step. So I tore it apart and ...

Started putting my pad together. Forget about the "tang" idea... you would have to oversize the metal to get a piece coming off long enough to connect. Seems like the scrap metal strap is the way to ...

stoli, nice job on the pics and explanations. I was wondering if a scrap metal "tie-in" between the panels would work... obviously it does! Looking forward to the switch work, thanks!

I ...

I was thinking along the lines of multistranded for flexibility too. Since I'll have to buy wire, I wanted to do it right.

stoli, with regards to some problems you referred to awhile back (pad shu ...

Nicely done, stoli! Thanks a bunch for posting those, looking forward to the rest. I just gathered some of the materials but I think I'll wait to see the rest of your pics before proceeding. It is ...

Hey stoli, thanks! Don't dis your instructions, I thought that was very clear. I think I might lightly score the metal and use your method of clamping and see how that comes out. Did you contact ce ...

Got it! Thanks!

Oh, and Steve771- I prefer the cut edges on chris's pad

That's what I had read about snapping the edge, and I thought that was pretty slick, just didn't know if the edge would turn out sharp (as i ...

Is the only way to see the scores (and stats) thru the XML "View Machine Statistics"? I guess what I'm asking is... is there a "high score" board while you are within the game itself, and if so, how ...

stoli, thanks for the pics on the screwheads. It looks like the screwhead has a rounded edge. If it's part of the screw, did you do that, or do they come that way, and if so, do you remember what ty ...

- probably because they are low profile, flat, and have nice rounded edges.

Thanks for the quick reply! In conjunction with this, when at full depression, about how far are the screwheads stickin ...